334 hp on a FI don't seem tuned right to me, you should sell your car as is and buy a maxima and never try to FI a car again

 

I'm confused. I'm only making 6.7psi peak which is very low. The tune isn't going to affect peak boost right?

 

where is the boost gauge hooked up to and is it a boost controller as well, if your spark timing is off, what do you think is going to happen? to boost

 

It's a supercharger so I don't think a boost controller is relevant and it's my understanding that boost is dependent on engine RPM, not spark timing. Boost sensor is tee'd off the front of the plenum:

 

you seem to know what you're doing, and have it all under control,

 

Nope, that's why I'm on this forum seeking direction from people with more experience dealing with this type of setup.

 

when did I say this last week and how much boost you at 6.7, and what did I say,

 

good luck with the sc hope it all works out for you and you figure it out and getting it running good,

 

I agree with Trav and the others to a point like I said you shouldn't have tuned without a boost gauge and widebands! That's not a "let's add it later thing" the wideband in the tail pipe will NEVER be as accurate as one installed in the proper spot. For my NA remote tune I was required to have them, and I wouldn't trust anyone that would tune without them. The factory ECU will pull timing and kill power, whether or not it affects boost on a supercharged car I don't know, it will do it anytime knock is detected.
take it back have them install the bung and wideband and go from there.

 

Thanks for the feedback. So the plan is I will install the wideband and get a smaller belt before I take it back to the tuner. It sounds like I am making the right amount of power for the amount of boost I'm generating but I don't understand how everything is related (boost, timing, RPM, etc.). I just want to make sure I've vetted out the things that I can before taking the car back for a re-tune. To be fair, I asked about which sensors to install in my first post and boost and wideband were never recommended as a necessity. I'm learning as I go and I now understand why they are needed.

 

Are you sure the small pulley is on the blower? Your graph looks pretty smooth, not like belt slip is happening after a point. Maybe it's just still on the original pulley and making 340 whp as it should.

 

Yes I'm sure it's the 2.87. Pics below. i can twist the belt more than 90 degrees pretty easily.

 

334whp at 6psi seems about right? Here's my timings around the same boost level.

 

If you are only 6PSI, that's Way to little ignition timing, even if on 91 pump gas.

Lots of power left on that.

I did'nt even start pullin g timing from the stock map in till 8psi on 93 pump gas.

 

already said this, spark timing is way off, tuner probably doesn't know how to use the burn rate tables on the ecu, can be a little weird to work with, but if you have ARC you can over ride that and just use simplified timing which every tuner will understand,

 

I'm an idiot. I pulled the timing instead of advancing. /facepalm

 

Okay, here are the log files for 2 runs in 3rd gear including Wideband AFR. AFR starts at about 15 and drops to mid 10's for most of the run. Max boost was 6.5psi. I'm running test pipes and the wideband sensor is located where the y-pipe comes together. Next I'm going to install a smaller belt and see if that affects boost.

 

youre running lean and rich, your spark timing needs to be brought up, because there is a lot of parasitic drag on sc, you didn't need to spend money on a uprev maf, for your setup, I can show you the the plots on megalogviewer if you want

 

I fixed all of the boost leaks. One was coming out of the connector pins of the MAF sensor and the other was between the MAF housing and charge piping. It didn't gain me much though. I'm still maxing out at around 7psi with the smaller pulley where others seem to be making around 10psi. When I charged the system to check for boost leaks I noticed air coming out of the driver's side valve cover PCV port. I'm wondering if I'm losing pressure through the valve seals or piston blow-by. I really don't know what it could be or what to check for. We tightened the bybass valve a little but I don't know if that helped at all. I guess I'll just leave it where it sits unless someone has some any ideas. Here's the latest dyno from the re-tune...

 

this was an educational thread. at the end of the day, after great expense, your result is the same as the non-tuner carb legal V3 kit with the piggyback computer.