Alright, I've popped enough sh*t, so here's the deal. Went to tune her today with 9psi but had some issues so I backed out and went back to 7psi. My results are 388.0 hp and 346.4 torque at the wheels. I'm happy with the results, but I think I'm running out of exhaust or something, because I'm not making crap for power from 6300-redline. My A/F throughout is right below 12, except for 4700-5100 where it dips into the 10's and comes back to normal, whatever is going on there I can't figure out, but that's the way it is for now. I don't have the sheet scanned yet, I had to come back to work to finish up and will scan it in a few hours when I get home. On the sheet I'm going to scan, in some spots it's a little over 12.0 A/F, but I have corrected that and added fuel, ran again and came out with the same #'s HP wise. My wideband O2 was at about 11.2 throughout. All runs were done in 5th gear, I wish I got it on video but didn't have anyone to take video, next week I might go back.

Details of my car:
ATI Procharger with 7psi. Headers, no cats, and Injen exhaust. For fuel I am using the Aeromotive EFMU and inline pump, and a set of RC 440cc injectors. I'm tuning my A/F with an A'Pexi S-AFC 2, only using the Aeromotive EFMU for the last slider when high boost kicks in (or whatever you want to call it). Also, I am using the J&S Safeguard to take timing out. I am taking out about 10 degrees at redline.

To all those that said you can't tune these 440cc injectors without some ECU upgrade or E-Manage or whatever, your beat.

Next step will be more boost, larger exhaust, 2.5" the injen is 2.25", and track times Sunday hopefully. I'm going for 500whp out of this motor, leaving it internally stock

I'd like to thank John at J&S Safeguard for developing such a kick *** product, can't say enough about it. Erik over at ATI for taking his time to answer a million of my questions, and Jeff at CAM for helping me out and taking me in counltess times to do some last minute runs. It took me a while, but I'm finally halfway happy.

-Bill

 

Damn kid,your making more HP on 7psi than I did at 8...
What issues are you running into at 9lbs??And is your timing retard gradual based on boost?so your taking 10 degrees out at 7psi right??

 

Ravaz, too bad about the 9-lb pully but dang your torque numbers are sweet! I'm finishing up a couple last things with my car (ha ha) and then I need to go back over to CAM for a final measurement.

--Steve

 

Well with 9psi I still can't make any power past 395. Something is maxed out I don't know, maybe the MAF. I didn't have time to screw with it so 7psi it is, I hardly let my car cool down between runs, just to make corrections then ran it again and again. My boost gauge is screwed. It says I'm making ~7.5 psi or so, but then I used a mechanical gauge, a Snap-on which is calibrated and I know is 100% accurate, and it's showing the correct numbers. My gauge just started acting up recently.

As for the timing retard, here's how I'm doing it. I'm taking out 6 degrees of RPM retard, then just about 4 with boost retard. So it's ~10 degrees at redline maybe closer to 9.5. The RPM retard starts at 5250 RPM and increases until it gets to 6250 then it's all in taking out 6 degrees until redline. I have my boost retard setup so it kicks in at 5psi. It's taking out something like 0.5 degrees per psi. I think I explained it right. This leaves me at like 18.5 or so at redline if it is 28 degrees at redline.

I'm still working on scanning the sheet or even taking a picture of it, I haven't gone home yet so I might not have it online until tomorrow. One thing I did notice, and don't know why, my boost seems to be starting a little earlier like at 3000 RPM, before I thought it kicked in at like 3500. Might be because of some parts I put on or something. When does yours start with 7psi?

Bill

 

Awesome Steve, are you putting in that JWT clutch and flywheel this week? I have to put mine in as well, but who wants to do anything with this beautiful weather we are having this week You going to the meet at Chico's tomorrow night?

Bill

 

I am retarding 2 or 3 degrees based on boost..It starts taking it out around 5800 rpms when boost really passes 5psi..I am also seeing 5psi of boost starting around 3000 rpms on my guage...Have you run with full timing??I notice when I took more timing out it lost power meaning I didnt need it to be taken out..Or at least thats what my tuner said and I trust him..I noticed when I went wit the full 9psi pulley set up I went WAY rich and actually lost power in the range..And it did seem like the engine just wasnt making anymore power past 6200 rpms no matter what we did..Then again I am running a STOCK manifold and plenum,with only test pipes and Borla..Maybe we reached max flow rate on our heads or max efficiency of the SC unit on our cars???

 

I messed around with the timing. Took out 6, 8 and 10. It liked 8, but I stayed with 10 because because that's what the last run was done at, but I'll drop it down to 8 in the morning and see what happens, it should be just fine, might give me a few HP too. The last time I ran no timing retard was when I put this motor in the car, but I only did pulls up to 6000 rpm, didn't want risk any damage with the power I was making.

I don't think we maxed out the efficiency of the blower, this thing has more in it still according to ATI's site. If we maxed out anything aside from the MAF, how are the guys with Turbos putting down over 400 at the wheels. I can't figure it out right now. Something is up, hopefully we'll figure it out soon, this car isn't quick enough yet

 

I haven't made any power past 6200 on the Dynojet even at 8.5 PSI either, if you figure it out let me know, I peak at 6200 just like Terre also said she did and my A/F is dead on at 11.2 to 12.2 through a entire run at 9 PSI WOT on stock internals.

I have determined that I can control boost by my accelerator which leads me to believe it is more Throttle reacting than rpm reacting (the boost) or maybe a combination of both.

Can an Apexi or GRedyy make changes in the closed loop to clear that pesky 175 code I heard our ECU doesn't like to be messed with in the closed loop section so I live with mine knowing my A/F is in spec and I am at 12.6 at the track on stock tires with a 2.1 60' so figure if I drop that to 1.7 that is 12.2 which is my goal so I need tires no way around it.

Congrats on the hard work it turned out well for you, do you still get that 175 code? I don't think it's the MAF on a SCer car but it's definanetely something, oh and I use a Mechanical boost guage too FYI. I'm wondering if a piggy back would compliment the TS reflash but I don't want to hack wires, are they releasing harnesses for any kits yet??

P.S. on cold dense air days I can still hit 9.5 lbs of boost on stock enternals which simply amazes me when 6 PSI alledgedly killed the same type of engine last year.

 

I haven't gotten the 175 code yet, 150 miles since I cleared it last but I'm still messing around with my settings on the SAFC, I really need my idle raised to 800, it feels like I'm going to stall at a light sometimes, 500 or whatever it's at isn't going to cut it. The thing is, on a few of my other sheets, it shows I make power right up to redline, it increased and increased. I don't understand what is going on, hopefully I'll figure it out soon.

Congrats on your track times, get that 60' down and yeah you'll see some low 12's. I'm going for 12.4 on street tires this weekend (19"), I have to get wheels for my DR's, I haven't found anything cheap yet, just for the track. Any suggestions? I'd like something like 17". I really don't care so much about my times on 19's, but I'd like a 115mph trap, and I'm pretty confident I can get that w/o slicks or DR's. We'll see Sunday

Bill

 

Pontiac Grand Prix 98 and later and the 5.0 share our bolt pattern throw on some ET Streets, I used 26x10 last year, a 28X10 almost fit and they were free but my car is lowered 1.2 inches. If your car isn't lowered the 28x10 will fit, Nitto's are cheapest. All will work well, maybe you can borrow a set, I can usally find someone at the track with 3 sets of tires in their truck hehe.

I am running Falken 451's and they are pretty sticky but they are and always will be street tires hehe. If you never get the 175 code again please let me know what you think may have made it go away bacuase I just cleared mine tonight AGAIN coming home from a long freeway ride from work. I would like it gone. I hate CEL's they just suck.

Have fun at the track they say we may hit 70 degrees here in the next 7 days

 

Sorry about the delay, here is the sheet. Had issues with the scanner so tossed that one and got a new one.

Flame away.

 

What is going on at 4700 rpms!!!!

 

The world goes to sh*t !
Actually just now I figured it out. I have to fix the scaler on the EFMU, when I was screwing with the 9psi setup, I left it the same for 7psi as well. The spike is some screw up we think on the dyno, it only happened once at that spot, but I corrected the 4700+ as much as I can, now I'll fix the rest on Mon.

Bill

 

How many times did you get code 175, how many times did you clear it? What do you think made it go away? It's a thorn in my side, it's just barely fat enough in closed loop mode to trigger the light but my A/F is good.

 

I just got the 175 code once after installing the larger injectors, came on at 75 miles. I have about 175 miles now after clearing the first code, nothing yet. I think what made it go away was me tuning the lo throttle setting (cruising) on the SAFC.

How come TS can't fix this? What is everyone paying for the reflash for if they are getting codes? Just wondering.

 

Correct me if I am wrong but I think TS is just modifying the OPEN loop for WOT..The closed loop should self learn the injectors at part throttle to some extent by adjusting the A/F via the heated O2 sensors..I think..

 

any black smoke at idle?.......i think that stammering, and black smoke was the same problem the first guy that tried RC's had......we tried to tell ya.......i think he tried the idle raising deal too, but let us know how it goes

Bill, do you have test pipes or cat pipes?.......i think the 175 might be from what the ECM sees before the cats, and after the cats......that computer is supposed to say something if the cats suddenly start burning off less fuel than before.......to the computer, free-flowing cats will look like broken cats

about the dyno:

GOTT IN HIMMEL!.....please tell me that AFR is wrong where it goes off the scale!.........that has to be a f*cked up O2 sensor, or a loose one.......no way your car could have lived through that

 

No black smoke at idle, idle is like 600 or whatever stock is. It was rich at first but now I got it worked out, I think. I have test pipes. I'm still checking into what this spike is all about, it only happened on that run I think, I'll double check the rest of the runs on Monday, I only have that sheet here. I think it happened when the EFMU kicked in, which is another issue I'm working out. I'm off to the track tomorrow, hopefully I'll beat my last time of 12.7@112. I should now that I'm throwing down more power then last time. Wish me luck.

Edit:
Forgot to mention. Another reason why I'm not freakin about the spike in my A/F is because my Wideband just goes rich where on the dyno it shows the spike. I was doing some logging with my Wideband O2, there's like a .5 difference between my Wideband and the Wideband on the Dyno. Ok, I'm done

 

Good luck at the track man..You got a 12.48 to beat!!!

 

Bill,
The spike in the A/F is from the sliders hopefully. When I was at CAM my car had the same lean spikes at the same rpm point three runs in a row. Jeff then adjusted my sliders and balanced it out. One thing I do notice now is that my cars fuel pressure drops slightly at that same point some times. I will soon be returning to CAM for A/F tuning if John at J and S quits dicking me around.
mike
QUOTE]Originally posted by ravaz
No black smoke at idle, idle is like 600 or whatever stock is. It was rich at first but now I got it worked out, I think. I have test pipes. I'm still checking into what this spike is all about, it only happened on that run I think, I'll double check the rest of the runs on Monday, I only have that sheet here. I think it happened when the EFMU kicked in, which is another issue I'm working out. I'm off to the track tomorrow, hopefully I'll beat my last time of 12.7@112. I should now that I'm throwing down more power then last time. Wish me luck.

Edit:
Forgot to mention. Another reason why I'm not freakin about the spike in my A/F is because my Wideband just goes rich where on the dyno it shows the spike. I was doing some logging with my Wideband O2, there's like a .5 difference between my Wideband and the Wideband on the Dyno. Ok, I'm done [/QUOTE]