I cancelled the entire order, I am gonna wait this out. My A/F is fine and too much confusing BS, then I check EBay and they are as low as 40 bucks. I am worried about the built in FPR.

Plugs are no rush. Vivid was cool cancelled in minutes.

Fricken Imports.....

 

max:

i don't know if this helps, but here goes...

Currently my A/F is perfect, but I hate the equation to get it right...

Right now, I have that same intank fuel pump, along with an in-line auxillary pump (controlled by DFMU). I have stock injectors now, and am using the super afc2 for fine tuning.


What I plan to do next is to delete the DFMU, and take the next step in preparing the car for a stand alone engine management system.

Basically, I am going to convert the car to a return-style fuel system.

I plan on changing to low impedance injectors along with the stand alone, so I need a way to keep the fuel pressure up, since I will be on stock injectors for the time being...

First step needed is to find out how much fuel pressure the DFMU is creating at max boost, so I can find a suitable rising rate FPR. For example, if my fuel pressure at max boost is now 75lbs, I know that the DFMU is adding (75-51) 24lbs of pressure. Since I know my max boost is 8lbs, I will need to put a 3:1 fuel pressure regulator. (Since you have 380cc injectors, you could simply get away with a 1:1 FPR, which is what I will be running when I upgrade the injectors.)

The steps needed to do this on my setup are as follows (working along direction of fuel):

1) remove intank pump and replace with a rubber fuel hose which has an identical pickup location as the pump. this allows me to circumvent the intank regulator.

2) wire the auxillary in-line pump to the stock fuel pump relay. this means the in-line pump will be the only fuel pump on the car.

3) add the rising-rate FPR to the end of the fuel rail, and run a fuel line back to the gas tank.

4) un-wire and remove DFMU.

5) continue to use super afc2 for fine tuning until ECU swap.

Once I am ready to put in the stand alone, and HUGE injectors, I just swap out rising rate FPR to a regular 1:1 unit, and let the stand alone control the pulse width.


Your steps are much easier:

1) Replace stock intank pump with 255lph pump, and bypass FPR with fuel hose.
2) Add 1:1 FPR to the end of the fuel rail and route return fuel line back to tank.



I plan on getting all of this done within a month or so. I will let you know how it goes!

michael



EDIT: oops, forgot to ask... anyone know of an aftermarket fuel rail(s) for the Z? any ideas of cost on fabbing one up?

tia

 

Thank you very much, that is exactly what I wanted to hear and is inline with what I was told about needing an FPR and a line up to the front from the tank.

So I did the rught thing and I will watch your progress. What FPR brand are you looking at , SARD?

No A/M Fuel rail exsists yet unfortunetely.

 

nothing aftermarket yet...we can easily have one done, but would want it ested on our car before hand, and I am not at the point where my car needs it yet though.

 

It's hollow steel isn't it?

 

what the stock one?

 

The NGK LFR6AIX-11 according to NGK Website in Japan has a 26.5mm reach. I have this on my Z and did compare it to stock and size wise was identical. Got me worried about the sizing. Here is the Japanese website. http://www.ngk-sparkplugs.jp/sparkpl...ri_lineup.html Might have to use a translation utility. I use http://babelfish.altavista.com/ Works pretty well sometimes.

 

yeah typical thread where we get 3 different answers

The fuel rail is hollow steel.

 

Thanks for looking it up for us. Since I already ordered it, I was just going to wait and see what I got. I was guessing sparkplug.com was a typo.
Gary

 

Thanks for convincing me to cancel my order

Peas!

 

You guys that are going to run an inline pump & return line & do away with your intank pump, remember to keep the fuel temp sensor in place as this will become more critical as the fuel heats up.
A gallon of gas is a gallon of gas at both 30deg & 90deg but the BTU (energy) value is a lot less at 90 than 30
The fuel temp sensor plays an important part in ECM calculations.

 

I was looking at a swap not booster, I had a booster ala Aeromotive. This would be a replacement not a booster FYI.

What about the 155L?

 

I am thinking it is good for 400+ HP and just barely raises the FP whereas the 255l raises it too much and requires an FPR. Thoughts?

 

The 255lph doesn't require a new fpr. Several cars are running one with out mods to the fuel system hardware. The 155lph is a waste of time on our cars. It depends on your hp goal, the returnless system is fine for over 400hp.

If you going crazy (500+) it's allot easier to run a return line setup because it's been done a millon times before. Eventually the aftermarket will meet the need for a returnless system but for now and probably a longtime it will be easier to go to a return based system for really high HP.
Gary

 

As i've mentioned before we had trouble with the GSS342 & it was bloody noisey. It may have been just that unit, but as we are a race team I would not use it again. We now use a Nippon Denso pump from a Lexus V8 that was designed as a returnless pump. Dont know its output but we have had no trouble & it maintains 3.5 bar right through the rev range

 

I am finE at 9PSI and 400 to the wheels, I need more torque so the stocker is fine then? I will address the TQ through the TC if I keep this car.

Sometimes I worry for nothing, My A/F was 11.2 to 12.2 at TS and the Dyno and now that it is warmer I assume less boost lower A/F??? I know my boost has dropped in 80 degree weather and it will only get hotter so does this lower the A/F down more towards 11 at peak?

 

Did you use the rubber mount? We put one on with out it and it was pretty bad. Sounded like a drill was running in the back of the car. But other than that they have always been great. How much was the Denso pump? What did it come out of? Is the car your using it on have FI? Sounds interesting.
Gary

 

I have heard others switch from Walbro to Denso too FWIW, several people but don't know if they make a direct fit for our Z like Walbro, I have other threads on this use SARD as key word it goes into this in detail.

 

The pump does work very well and solves the top end leaning out problems that occur with the stock pump. If you are using the stock Greddy map you have to redo it completely as it wil be off. I use that pump on all forced induction projects that we do.

 

Thanks for the info Dan. So what your saying is the pump flows to much for the stock fpr and you have to lean out most of the lower map to compensate for it?
Gary