Installing fuel pump and regulator
05-26-2004 | 03:02 AM
#22
I haven't done anymore, as I had to order the seal ring for the gas tank, and I am having fuel rail adaptors made.
Everything I have read about adding a fuel pressure regulator, and looking at those stock dampers, they are just going to have to go.
SKiDaZZLe and I were talking the good part of the afternoon yesterday, about the fuel system, and how to correctly address it, and I have decided I am going to remove the fuel rails and modify them.
If you look at the fuel feed going into the fuel rail, feeding the injectors, the feed only comes in on the passenger side. Then these is a small tube, which looks very restrictive, that connects to the drive side fuel rail, which is how the drive side gets its fuel.
I am going to remove the fuel rails, and remove this connecting tube. I am then going to make a return on the front of the fuel rails, on both sides.
The fuel rail adaptors I am having made up, are going to bolt directly on to the back of the fuel rails on both the passenger and drive side.
So I will have 2 feeds coming in, 2 return lines coming out.
For others that don't want to get into removing the fuel rails, the fuel rail adaptors I am having made up, will bolt right on to the fuel rail, so you can run your 1 feed line, right to the fuel rail, and use the adaptor.
I am also thinking of buying another fuel rail, making the modifications to it, and keeping it on hand, for anyone that wants to do this.
Then they can just send me back their stock one, when they replace.
I will attach the schematics of the fuel rail, so you can see what I am referring to
Everything I have read about adding a fuel pressure regulator, and looking at those stock dampers, they are just going to have to go.
SKiDaZZLe and I were talking the good part of the afternoon yesterday, about the fuel system, and how to correctly address it, and I have decided I am going to remove the fuel rails and modify them.
If you look at the fuel feed going into the fuel rail, feeding the injectors, the feed only comes in on the passenger side. Then these is a small tube, which looks very restrictive, that connects to the drive side fuel rail, which is how the drive side gets its fuel.
I am going to remove the fuel rails, and remove this connecting tube. I am then going to make a return on the front of the fuel rails, on both sides.
The fuel rail adaptors I am having made up, are going to bolt directly on to the back of the fuel rails on both the passenger and drive side.
So I will have 2 feeds coming in, 2 return lines coming out.
For others that don't want to get into removing the fuel rails, the fuel rail adaptors I am having made up, will bolt right on to the fuel rail, so you can run your 1 feed line, right to the fuel rail, and use the adaptor.
I am also thinking of buying another fuel rail, making the modifications to it, and keeping it on hand, for anyone that wants to do this.
Then they can just send me back their stock one, when they replace.
I will attach the schematics of the fuel rail, so you can see what I am referring to
05-26-2004 | 09:05 PM
#23
very interesting. yes, the feed to the driver side rail looks very restrictive.
The only problem is see here ACP is the lack of any type of vapor return line. That is the purpose of the dampner...you'll notice it has a bypass line that leads to another line that heads back to the EVAP canister. It prevents vapor lock...which is very dangerous...and can lean to fuel starvation and a lean condition. I would be concerned with this since the manifolds give off so much heat, that the fuel temp will rise, and vapors can form in the fuel lines and rail. Now, maybe becuase the fuel is totally circulating via the return line, there is little chance of a significant fuel temp increase and vapor lock...but I am not certain on this.
Have you considered leaving the evap return dampner in place, but still modding the fuel rail to allow equal fuel flow to both rails?
I am shocked that for such a high performance car, Nissan took some short-cuts in designing key parts of the engine, such as the fuel rail. Must have been the same engineer that designed the plenum.
The only problem is see here ACP is the lack of any type of vapor return line. That is the purpose of the dampner...you'll notice it has a bypass line that leads to another line that heads back to the EVAP canister. It prevents vapor lock...which is very dangerous...and can lean to fuel starvation and a lean condition. I would be concerned with this since the manifolds give off so much heat, that the fuel temp will rise, and vapors can form in the fuel lines and rail. Now, maybe becuase the fuel is totally circulating via the return line, there is little chance of a significant fuel temp increase and vapor lock...but I am not certain on this.
Have you considered leaving the evap return dampner in place, but still modding the fuel rail to allow equal fuel flow to both rails?
I am shocked that for such a high performance car, Nissan took some short-cuts in designing key parts of the engine, such as the fuel rail. Must have been the same engineer that designed the plenum.
05-27-2004 | 05:51 AM
#24
Charter Member #34
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,228
Likes: 0
From: -
you dont get rid of the evap line. you just run a new hose from the strut tower bracket straight to the EVAP pruge control selenoid (from #4 in the above pic, skipping #3). this is how my car is setup now. i no longer have #3 on my car.
and the evap gases run into the manifold, not out of it. the selenoid is mostly open during decel and idle. this allows the evap gases to leave the EVAP canister, and be routed to the intake manifold for combustion. under high load, the selenoid is shut.
it has nothing to do with the dampeners at all. the only thing you could be confusing is the fact they share a common part (#3 in the above picture).
hth,
m
and the evap gases run into the manifold, not out of it. the selenoid is mostly open during decel and idle. this allows the evap gases to leave the EVAP canister, and be routed to the intake manifold for combustion. under high load, the selenoid is shut.
it has nothing to do with the dampeners at all. the only thing you could be confusing is the fact they share a common part (#3 in the above picture).
hth,
m
Originally posted by gq_626
very interesting. yes, the feed to the driver side rail looks very restrictive.
The only problem is see here ACP is the lack of any type of vapor return line. That is the purpose of the dampner...you'll notice it has a bypass line that leads to another line that heads back to the EVAP canister. It prevents vapor lock...which is very dangerous...and can lean to fuel starvation and a lean condition. I would be concerned with this since the manifolds give off so much heat, that the fuel temp will rise, and vapors can form in the fuel lines and rail. Now, maybe becuase the fuel is totally circulating via the return line, there is little chance of a significant fuel temp increase and vapor lock...but I am not certain on this.
Have you considered leaving the evap return dampner in place, but still modding the fuel rail to allow equal fuel flow to both rails?
I am shocked that for such a high performance car, Nissan took some short-cuts in designing key parts of the engine, such as the fuel rail. Must have been the same engineer that designed the plenum.
very interesting. yes, the feed to the driver side rail looks very restrictive.
The only problem is see here ACP is the lack of any type of vapor return line. That is the purpose of the dampner...you'll notice it has a bypass line that leads to another line that heads back to the EVAP canister. It prevents vapor lock...which is very dangerous...and can lean to fuel starvation and a lean condition. I would be concerned with this since the manifolds give off so much heat, that the fuel temp will rise, and vapors can form in the fuel lines and rail. Now, maybe becuase the fuel is totally circulating via the return line, there is little chance of a significant fuel temp increase and vapor lock...but I am not certain on this.
Have you considered leaving the evap return dampner in place, but still modding the fuel rail to allow equal fuel flow to both rails?
I am shocked that for such a high performance car, Nissan took some short-cuts in designing key parts of the engine, such as the fuel rail. Must have been the same engineer that designed the plenum.
05-27-2004 | 04:23 PM
#26
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 4,686
Likes: 0
From: NOR - CAL
Excellent thread thanks.
My dealer can clear the fuel line with a machine but the DIY way is to remove the fuel pump fuse, turn it to run then turn it off, no fuel in line.
My install may be slightly delayed from reading about this o-ring I just ordered. Much apreciated! Mine is a 190L so I won't need all of the modifications. Great job ACP thanks!
My dealer can clear the fuel line with a machine but the DIY way is to remove the fuel pump fuse, turn it to run then turn it off, no fuel in line.
My install may be slightly delayed from reading about this o-ring I just ordered. Much apreciated! Mine is a 190L so I won't need all of the modifications. Great job ACP thanks!
05-27-2004 | 04:55 PM
#27
update
I am removing the stock fuel regulator, and replacing it with a plug, that I am having made up to be the same shape, and take the same plastic ring, and o-rings.
Here is a picture of the stock fpr
More to come
I am removing the stock fuel regulator, and replacing it with a plug, that I am having made up to be the same shape, and take the same plastic ring, and o-rings.
Here is a picture of the stock fpr
More to come
05-27-2004 | 08:41 PM
#29
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,368
Likes: 0
From: So Cal
ACP, do you have to plug the stock fpr? If not what are the implications? With the stock FPR will it still regulate the 255 to 51 psi or will the 255 overwhelm the stock FPR? Again as always, TIA and Thanks for the great step-by-step.
05-27-2004 | 10:58 PM
#30
Hey 350Now, you dont have to plug the FPR. The Walbro 255 is totally overwhelming the stock FPR anyways, so if you goal is 50-60psi of fuel pressure, it will make no difference.
But since ACP is doing the holy grail kick-*** ultimate fuel solution, I would kill that stock FPR, just for the principle of it.
But since ACP is doing the holy grail kick-*** ultimate fuel solution, I would kill that stock FPR, just for the principle of it.
05-28-2004 | 07:35 AM
#31
Charter Member #34
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,228
Likes: 0
From: -
its still better to plug the stock fpr. this is because as you consume fuel at the injectors, the load on the stock fpr lightens up, and the fuel pressure drops... never below 51psi, but nonetheless it will not stay constant.
m
m
05-29-2004 | 05:41 PM
#32
update
figured out all my fuel pressure lines, and fittings, and have them on the way. Probably put a package together to purchase all together.
Here is where I am mounting my return line.
It is on top of the drive side assembly
Will tap it with this bulkhead fitting
Also mounted my fuel pressure gauge.
Was going to get a mechanical one and electic one, to watch @ dyno runs, but figured I would just get a electric one, mount it in the engine bay, and tap into it, to log into the e-01
Couple pictures
Here is where I am mounting my return line.
It is on top of the drive side assembly
Will tap it with this bulkhead fitting
Also mounted my fuel pressure gauge.
Was going to get a mechanical one and electic one, to watch @ dyno runs, but figured I would just get a electric one, mount it in the engine bay, and tap into it, to log into the e-01
Couple pictures
05-29-2004 | 10:23 PM
#33
very interesting location...but I dont think that plastic guage will survive the heat eminating from the engine bay...dont cha think? That plastic is very soft...I accidently scratched it when installing it...and I have no idea how i did it...
05-31-2004 | 02:11 AM
#34
I just order a Defi Fuel Pressure Gauge. ACP, maybe you could velcro some heat shielding material over the face of the guage to protect it. I like the idea of having a guage in the engine bay, so you can adjust idle FPR pressure while looking at the guage. And while driving, you can view the pressure via Profec...I like your thinking....
ACP, maybe you could velcro some heat shielding material over the face of the guage to protect it. I like the idea of having a guage in the engine bay, so you can adjust idle FPR pressure while looking at the guage. And while driving, you can view the pressure via Profec...I like your thinking....
06-01-2004 | 04:09 AM
#36
Originally posted by 350Now
ACP have you tap the fuel sender line to the Profec yet? If so was it just tapping the voltage line and setting a conversion rate in the E-01? Thanks in advance.
ACP have you tap the fuel sender line to the Profec yet? If so was it just tapping the voltage line and setting a conversion rate in the E-01? Thanks in advance.
06-01-2004 | 07:42 AM
#37
Hey 350Now...I checked my Profec and it will accept any voltage..i think up to 14V's. You just set the start voltage and end voltage, and what that means in terms of conversion factor. It should work...
350Now..hurry up and figure it out..becuae I have a FPG coming really soon too.
350Now..hurry up and figure it out..becuae I have a FPG coming really soon too.
