Walbro 255 = 10psi
05-31-2004, 07:01 PM
#41
Originally posted by g35tt
gq_626 what did the car dyno at??? i will like to know some info couse i am installing a greddy tt on my g35 so i was just wondering what u made?
gq_626 what did the car dyno at??? i will like to know some info couse i am installing a greddy tt on my g35 so i was just wondering what u made?
I havent dynoed at the higher boost level yet. 6psi did about 360whp with RT cats and Evo2 Exhuast...no tuning or ignition retarding.
I will have new dynos at 9psi in two weeks.
05-31-2004, 11:38 PM
#42
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I'm sitting on the Walbro 190l right now, it's actually on my desk.
I don't think I am gonna need an FPR. My voltage doesn't fluctuate either, I have a grounding kit through the battery and to the frame FYI (Optima Red Top.)
My mechanic is on vacation this week. He is the only one that touches my car now. I'll post 190L results so we all have a smorgasdoard of pumps.
I don't think I am gonna need an FPR. My voltage doesn't fluctuate either, I have a grounding kit through the battery and to the frame FYI (Optima Red Top.)
My mechanic is on vacation this week. He is the only one that touches my car now. I'll post 190L results so we all have a smorgasdoard of pumps.
05-31-2004, 11:46 PM
#43
12Sec...what is your voltage guage pegged at. So it never moves at all throughout the day? In the morning..cold start..mine is slightly above 14...once warm..it drops to maybe 13.8'ish
I cant wait until you install that 190....do you have an fuel pres gauge?
I cant wait until you install that 190....do you have an fuel pres gauge?
06-01-2004, 11:26 AM
#44
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For anyone interested here is a pic of were my voltage sits at since the TS ecu no matter on temp, sterio, or light position. I have also tested the voltage at the pump and the battery. they all read the same. So I guess this is part of the reflash because it use to go anywere from 12.8 to 14.4 before the reflash with the underdrive pullies. makes it alot easier for me considering the fuel pump won't change on a day to day basis. Now TS didn't say they did anything to the voltage but it is the only explanation I can give. Spaz
06-01-2004, 01:46 PM
#46
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Originally posted by gq_626
Great work....please post some pics of the installation..I wanna see how the fittings look. Good work..that is exactly how you want your fuel pressure curve to look.
Great work....please post some pics of the installation..I wanna see how the fittings look. Good work..that is exactly how you want your fuel pressure curve to look.
This setup feels really good. The car revs much better and feels much stronger thru the midrange. I used brass fittings from Lowes. I was lead on to brass by the ATI aux. fuel pump assembly it sort looks like something from Lowes. It doesn't look bad but I don't have a camera currently. My brother will take the pictures sometime soon. Where can I get some software to downsize the image in order to fit the picture on a post or can I email it to you?
MIKE
06-01-2004, 02:22 PM
#47
you can email pics to me at sharif.abdelbaset@us.nestle.com
Or use like MS Photoeditor or any basic photo editor should allow you to resize to 640X480, which is the max size support by the forum.
If you want to send them to me, I will host them for you and put up a thumbnail page with links to the higher-res photos.
Or use like MS Photoeditor or any basic photo editor should allow you to resize to 640X480, which is the max size support by the forum.
If you want to send them to me, I will host them for you and put up a thumbnail page with links to the higher-res photos.
06-03-2004, 12:20 PM
#48
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I recently purchased the Walbro 255 pump (part number GSS342) from Extreme PSI. It will be at Crawfords on Monday.
Last night my car was dynoed after the TS flash and it started running lean at about 6K rpm and 8PSI due to fuel. After reading this post I was thinking this (the 255 pump) may be all that I need. IE no regulator. Any thoughts... Especially GQ626. Plus my voltage stays in place. If anything it reads high, like 14-15. One thing to consider in my case is I still have the UR alt pulley. I'm not sure if that does anything as it is the same size as stock.
Max, I had the 9lb Max TS flash but my car started running lean. This was with only the 7lb pullies. Doug didn't even put on the 9lb pullies. I'm not sure why I would run lean with the 7lb and you are fine with the 9lb pullies. The main difference between our cars are the headers. I'm also perplexed that you didn't have to reflash after the torque converter as we beleive that on conjuction with the RT cats caused my problems before.
Last night my car was dynoed after the TS flash and it started running lean at about 6K rpm and 8PSI due to fuel. After reading this post I was thinking this (the 255 pump) may be all that I need. IE no regulator. Any thoughts... Especially GQ626. Plus my voltage stays in place. If anything it reads high, like 14-15. One thing to consider in my case is I still have the UR alt pulley. I'm not sure if that does anything as it is the same size as stock.
Max, I had the 9lb Max TS flash but my car started running lean. This was with only the 7lb pullies. Doug didn't even put on the 9lb pullies. I'm not sure why I would run lean with the 7lb and you are fine with the 9lb pullies. The main difference between our cars are the headers. I'm also perplexed that you didn't have to reflash after the torque converter as we beleive that on conjuction with the RT cats caused my problems before.
06-04-2004, 04:57 AM
#49
Whosdady,
The experience with a Walbro 255 drop-in has been a mixed bag. Some are running rich at idle, some are not. I guess you can just give it a try. If it runs rich at idle, you'll need to install an FPR. I plan on doing this regardless, since I want rock solid stable FP, with plenty of reserves built up behind the reg, to compensate for voltage fluctuations.
Do you have ATI or Vortech? I thought both kits came with some sorta of AUX inline fuel pump...maybe not??
The experience with a Walbro 255 drop-in has been a mixed bag. Some are running rich at idle, some are not. I guess you can just give it a try. If it runs rich at idle, you'll need to install an FPR. I plan on doing this regardless, since I want rock solid stable FP, with plenty of reserves built up behind the reg, to compensate for voltage fluctuations.
Do you have ATI or Vortech? I thought both kits came with some sorta of AUX inline fuel pump...maybe not??
06-04-2004, 05:08 AM
#51
So then The Vortech and ATI guys shouldnt need a Walbro...unless they want to ditch the inline AUX pump, and run a dedicated FPR and return line.
How does the rising rate reg with the Vortech kit return fuel to the tank?
How does the rising rate reg with the Vortech kit return fuel to the tank?
06-04-2004, 05:57 AM
#52
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Flip a coin... It works, it doesn't work.
Originally posted by gq_626
Whosdady,
The experience with a Walbro 255 drop-in has been a mixed bag. Some are running rich at idle, some are not. I guess you can just give it a try. If it runs rich at idle, you'll need to install an FPR. I plan on doing this regardless, since I want rock solid stable FP, with plenty of reserves built up behind the reg, to compensate for voltage fluctuations.
Do you have ATI or Vortech? I thought both kits came with some sorta of AUX inline fuel pump...maybe not??
Whosdady,
The experience with a Walbro 255 drop-in has been a mixed bag. Some are running rich at idle, some are not. I guess you can just give it a try. If it runs rich at idle, you'll need to install an FPR. I plan on doing this regardless, since I want rock solid stable FP, with plenty of reserves built up behind the reg, to compensate for voltage fluctuations.
Do you have ATI or Vortech? I thought both kits came with some sorta of AUX inline fuel pump...maybe not??
I have the ATI kit on a 2003 5AT. I had the FMU and pump installed for 6 months but later chose to remove it when I added the TS ECU flash and PE 380 injectors. I didn't personally have any problems but there were some that claimed they did. (I wanted to be safe)
I'm wondering if those running rich at idle have larger injectors? IE maybe those with 440's are running rich while guys with 380's are OK? Or maybe the guys running stock injectors are OK? This is just a thought.
What is needed to install the FPR and how long is the install? I may have to go this route. Is areomotive the best choice (most resonable) right now? What is the part number? Also any other part numbers would be greatly appreciated with any other lines, fittings etc...
06-04-2004, 03:11 PM
#53
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Scott,
I'm not exactly sure why my car runs richer than yours. The only thing I can think of is that Tadishi was able to drive my car on two different dates road tuning and reflashing over and over in real time. I think he drove my car about 10 times.
Last time I was down there Tadashi hit 11 PSI on my car and I wasn't lean until I hit 5k rpm's. Of course since then I dropped it to 9 lbs. I am not sure why I would need a reflash for my verter swap, my car runs fine and shifts great and all guages are in spec. To be honest I never really asked TS if a reflash was necasarry for a Verter swap did anybody ask them? I haven't talked to them in awhile because my car is running good.
GQ,
My car goes in Tuesday for the 190 install and new NGK Irradiums gapped at the standard 40. My coppers are about done already.
As for voltage I stay just like you 13.8 to 14 but I have 1600 watts of stereo and when it is on I can drop to 13.0 at idle (at a light) even with 2 farads of capacitors so I don't think the TS reflash is a voltage cure all at least not for cars with after market stereos.
I'm glad to see an update from you Scott keep us posted. I'll post about the pump as soon as I get my days off.
I'm not exactly sure why my car runs richer than yours. The only thing I can think of is that Tadishi was able to drive my car on two different dates road tuning and reflashing over and over in real time. I think he drove my car about 10 times.
Last time I was down there Tadashi hit 11 PSI on my car and I wasn't lean until I hit 5k rpm's. Of course since then I dropped it to 9 lbs. I am not sure why I would need a reflash for my verter swap, my car runs fine and shifts great and all guages are in spec. To be honest I never really asked TS if a reflash was necasarry for a Verter swap did anybody ask them? I haven't talked to them in awhile because my car is running good.
GQ,
My car goes in Tuesday for the 190 install and new NGK Irradiums gapped at the standard 40. My coppers are about done already.
As for voltage I stay just like you 13.8 to 14 but I have 1600 watts of stereo and when it is on I can drop to 13.0 at idle (at a light) even with 2 farads of capacitors so I don't think the TS reflash is a voltage cure all at least not for cars with after market stereos.
I'm glad to see an update from you Scott keep us posted. I'll post about the pump as soon as I get my days off.
06-04-2004, 07:25 PM
#54
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Max,
Doug told me and I think Chris mentioned it earlier in this post that some Z's are having issues with the TS flash and converter. Since Doug sent back the ECU and told them I had a converter the car runs great minus the tendancy to run lean in the upper RPM's.
However, from your videos it looks like your car runs perfectly. Maybe I have a weak stock pump or maybe the crawford headers are flowing a tremendous amount of air causing a lean condition. Regardless, I think a new pump is a good idea for both of us. I'm just hoping I don't have to install a FPR because I hear the install is rough and requires a lot of other stuff.
If all goes well I should have my car next week
Doug told me and I think Chris mentioned it earlier in this post that some Z's are having issues with the TS flash and converter. Since Doug sent back the ECU and told them I had a converter the car runs great minus the tendancy to run lean in the upper RPM's.
However, from your videos it looks like your car runs perfectly. Maybe I have a weak stock pump or maybe the crawford headers are flowing a tremendous amount of air causing a lean condition. Regardless, I think a new pump is a good idea for both of us. I'm just hoping I don't have to install a FPR because I hear the install is rough and requires a lot of other stuff.
If all goes well I should have my car next week
06-05-2004, 05:15 AM
#55
Who....VERY cool.
Keep us posted.
Also, I think for F/I...the plugs should be gapped at .029-.030. That's what a lot of the F/I runs are running, and its actually what the Greddy branded plungs how pre-gapped at...just a thought.
I am running the 440cc injectors, so I dont think the injectors are resulting in some people running rich vs, lean. Based on all the speculative posts I've been reading on our ECU, I really think each ECU has a slightly different map and parameters, and that is what is causing varying degrees of richness. It could also be voltage issues, and other factors as well.
That's why, even thought my car is running 11:1 all the way to redline at 9psi, I am going to install the Aeromotive FPR A1000-6 to add an additional level of safety and stability to the fuel system. This way...I'll know for sure that my fuel pressure is where it should be.
here is a link to the part number and pic. You'll also need some kind of fuel pressure guage to set the base pressure, and make sure the raising rate feature is working.
http://216.242.145.16/products/product.phtml?p=10
Keep us posted.
Also, I think for F/I...the plugs should be gapped at .029-.030. That's what a lot of the F/I runs are running, and its actually what the Greddy branded plungs how pre-gapped at...just a thought.
I am running the 440cc injectors, so I dont think the injectors are resulting in some people running rich vs, lean. Based on all the speculative posts I've been reading on our ECU, I really think each ECU has a slightly different map and parameters, and that is what is causing varying degrees of richness. It could also be voltage issues, and other factors as well.
That's why, even thought my car is running 11:1 all the way to redline at 9psi, I am going to install the Aeromotive FPR A1000-6 to add an additional level of safety and stability to the fuel system. This way...I'll know for sure that my fuel pressure is where it should be.
here is a link to the part number and pic. You'll also need some kind of fuel pressure guage to set the base pressure, and make sure the raising rate feature is working.
http://216.242.145.16/products/product.phtml?p=10
06-05-2004, 08:28 AM
#56
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Where did you buy it from? It looks like Summit and Jegs has them for $131.99. Superchargersonline may beat that price but they will ship it later than Summit, who will ship out by Monday.
06-05-2004, 05:10 PM
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I love Summit Racing they can't be beat. I have used them for about 4 years.
I hope I can avoid the FPR I will know Wednesday in fact I just called Nissan to confirm.
The NGK Irrads are gapped in a non adjustable fashion.
I agree that .40 seem high right now my NGK -11 coppers are at .37 which my car seems to love but several people FlluidZ's (MIA) and others have had great luck with them.
I am doing Irrads and plugs at the same time wish me luck.
Thanks for the update Scott glad to hear it.
I came home this morning at about 57 degrees and hit 10 PSI from a 15 mph roll onto the freeway and my EGT hit 8.25 then shifted and dropped down, the warning never went off on the 10 PSI run last night and it shifted perfectly.
I agree with Shariff that it's in the maps of the ECU. I also agree that the more the headers flow (and I know Doug's flow more than any I know) the leaner your car would be. That's what the flash is for though.
I hope I can avoid the FPR I will know Wednesday in fact I just called Nissan to confirm.
The NGK Irrads are gapped in a non adjustable fashion.
I agree that .40 seem high right now my NGK -11 coppers are at .37 which my car seems to love but several people FlluidZ's (MIA) and others have had great luck with them.
I am doing Irrads and plugs at the same time wish me luck.
Thanks for the update Scott glad to hear it.
I came home this morning at about 57 degrees and hit 10 PSI from a 15 mph roll onto the freeway and my EGT hit 8.25 then shifted and dropped down, the warning never went off on the 10 PSI run last night and it shifted perfectly.
I agree with Shariff that it's in the maps of the ECU. I also agree that the more the headers flow (and I know Doug's flow more than any I know) the leaner your car would be. That's what the flash is for though.
