CaneZMD

iTrader: (1)

Alright, I got the kit today and started working on it. I did the initial tear down and I installed the IC and intake piping. Bending the power steering cooler piping was a biiaaatch, but I got it to fit. Everything was pretty tight. My A/c flexible hose is about 1/2 inch from the pulleys, so I think it's safe.

I've got a few questions, though.

#1 my split second box says 350z, MY (Model year ?) 04, and I have # 1760 or so of the 2003 Z's, is this a problem?

#2 About tapping the pan, it says to "locate and center punch the hole" Then "Drill a 1/8 inch hole at the center location". Then "use the 9/16 inch cutter to enlarge the hole", then "use a 3/8 MPT tap to 1/2 deep" ??????? Do I punch the initial hole or drill it or both? And how can I use a 3/8 (6/16) inch tap on a 9/16 inch hole? What does NPT mean? is that different than a standard 3/8 inch tap? I don't understand how you tap the pan.

Any help would be appreciated.

tig488

iTrader: (18)

ok, to tap the pan you have to go buy a 3/8 NPT tap, about 10$ which is different than a normal 3/8 inch tap, i got the tapered version, vortech should have included them in the kit, they supplied the drill bit with the hole enlarger, but it took me a few days to find the tap, i had to go to a plumbing supply warehouse.

it is a ***** to do, i did mine, but i have a very slow oil leak now that ive tried to fix, the aluminum on the upper pan is SO thin, about 1/8 - 1/4 inch, so you have to get it just right, i didnt tap mine where they said to, i came down to the lower section and more toward the middle, it was easier to get to and work on. and its right above the oil line so its ok. anyway i suck at tapping stuff especially in tight spots, so when i did it the tap didnt go in exactly straight so its kinda crooked, it went in tight but i think some oil is seeping around the threads, i did use thread sealant but that aluminum is thin, so i put some pig puddy around it and its still leaking, im gonna have to figure something else out.

be very careful and take your time,
anyway hope that helps,

AmarilloMike

Hi:

NPT means "national pipe thread".
3/8' in the INSIDE diameter of the pipe, so the outside diameter of the pipe would be about 7/8.


Mike

CaneZMD

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys.
So I guess NPT is important. I got the supercharger mounted in the engine bay this morning and the piping is done. I still have to install the oil and fuel management systems.

I read somewhere that it is best to just punch the pan and then use a tap. The idea being that the punched metal we'll bend into the inside and contribute to the thread area. Why don't they do it like this here. Is that only for steel tapping or something?

esemes

my dealership did mine (they pulled the pan completely, to ensure no contamination of shavings......


they can tellya exactly how to make the tap, if you'd like (i have no leakage at all)

Lokey infiniti service (727)530-1661 (ask for John Oliva; he's the service director that can hook you up w/ the tech that just did mine)

Forced

You can only do it that way with a steel pan. On the aluminum ones, you need to use the roto-broach provided to cut the hole and then tap that sucker. If you try to punch the aluminum pan, it could crack. The box for the 2003 and 2004 350Z is the same. You are good to go.

fluidz

A "CLEAN INSTALL" would require you to pull the oil pan and tap it off the car. A "DIRTY INSTALL" would require you to just tap it mounted to the car and cross your fingers. Just my 2 cents.........

CaneZMD

iTrader: (1)

I agree, I'm planning on dropping the oil pan just to be safe. Right now, I'm having trouble finding the clip applier for the fuel system, flexible hose for the intake and the tap.

And wow, the wiring on the ECU harness is tight! I'm gonna have to get a smaller crimper.

esemes

IF YOU are gonna run a flexi-hose to offset the airfilter from the compressor, then you can find it (in a box) at autozone, back in the vac. fittings section (saw the exact stuff there the other day)

good luck, and keep the updates coming!

-eS

tig488

iTrader: (18)

fluidz....

there is no way to "pull the oil pan off and tap it off the car" unless you drop the entire engine, which is basically what youd have to do to drop the upper oil pan.

if by "CLEAN INSTALL" you mean dropping the "bottom" pan, and draining the oil, thats correct and thats what I did, youd be crazy to drill the thing with the pan and oil still in there.

but again there is no way to simply drop the upper oil pan from the car.

teh215

iTrader: (8)

You shouldn't need any special tools to disconnect the fuel lines. There is a blue tab between/in the connectors that you need to press on, IIRC, and they will separate. You should be sure to release the fuel pressure first but, since you are this far into it you aren't going to be able to. Just make certain you have plenty of towels around when you separate the fuel lines.

tig488

iTrader: (18)

no i think he means the clip applier for the high pressure fuel lines that you have to install with the kit, i just used a pair of end bitters, they worked perfect.

CaneZMD

iTrader: (1)

end biters? interesting. I didn't think of that. I did go to the store, though and picked up standard screw hose clamps instead.
I think I'm going to save the tapping for last. I'll do the fuel system tonight.
By the way, I can't get the passenger side IC pipe to fit under the undercarriage panel. the tube (with the BOV) sits at the same level as the sway bar. I can press it up slightly, but then the middle pipe will be real close to the main pulley. Is this how everyone else's is, or did I not align it right?

teh215

iTrader: (8)

Is the curved pipe behind the radiator pushed all of the way into the fitting on the SC outlet? Also, were you able to get the IC bolted to the bumper mounting bolts?

CaneZMD

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, it is in all the way. The passenger IC pipe was my last pipe to install. (It's always the last one that screws up, huh) The IC went up fine and it's mounted and it's level. I pushed the pip in all the way, and I pushed the middle pipe leaving the SC in all the way, but the outlet of the middle pipe is level with the sway bar, so the passenger IC pipe has to come down to that level too. I can twist it up, but it pushes the middle pipe awfully close to the crank pulley.

Also, sorry for all the questions, but what number (and wire color) are the wires for the MAF, tach signal, and TPS sensor on the wiring harness? I can't find it in the service manual. I found a diagram for the MAF, but it has like 6 wires going to the harness and I don't know which one to use.

Thanks.

teh215

iTrader: (8)

Any chance you could post a pic of the tubing? The wire numbers and colors are in the Vortech installation instructions.

tig488

iTrader: (18)

my piping was difficult but with some patience it worked out, just loosen the hose clamps and keep moving them until it all fits, i can post the wiring diagram stuff tonight once i get home, or you can PM me, i think i wrote em down.

teh215

iTrader: (8)

From the Manual

G. Connect the thin 20Ga RED wire to battery positive switched by the ignition (ECU harness connector terminal 109, white with black stripe wire). Use the supplied T-Tap and spade connector.

H. Connect the BLACK wire to the ECU ground (Terminal 115, black with white stripe wire). Use the supplied T-Tap and spade connector.

I. Locate the MAF sensor signal wire and cut it (Terminal 51, orange wire).

J. Connect the GREEN wire to the wire leading to the MAF sensor.

K. Connect the VIOLET wire to the wire leading to the ECU MAF sensor input.

L. Locate the crank sensor signal wire and cut it (Terminal 13, white with blue stripe wire).

M. Connect the BLUE wire to the wire leading to the crank sensor.

N. Connect the BLUE/WHITE wire to the wire leading to the ECU crank sensor input.

O. Locate and cut the CAM 1 sensor signal wire and cut it. (Terminal 33, red wire).

P. Connect the YELLOW wire to the wire leading to the cam sensor.

Q. Connect the YELLOW/BLACK wire to the wire leading to the ECU cam sensor input.

R. Locate and cut the CAM 2 sensor signal wire and cut it (Terminal 14, red with blue stripe wire.

S. Connect the TAN wire to the wire leading to the cam sensor.

T. Connect the TAN/BLACK wire to the leading to the ECU cam sensor input. (See Fig. 10-c.)

U. Connect the large 12-gauge RED wire to the battery (+) positive terminal, using the supplied ring terminal connector.

V. Reinstall the ECU plug and interior panels.

W. The STRIPED RED wire needs to be connected to the Positive terminal of the previously installed fuel pump. Use the supplied plastic wire loom to enclose the wire. Route it down the passenger’s side of the engine and secure it away from heat and sharp edges.

X. The vacuum hose on the timing controller should be connected to intake manifold vacuum using the supplied TEE and hose

teh215

iTrader: (8)

Here are pins from the ECU.

CaneZMD

iTrader: (1)

I did all of them but the MAF. I swear, mine didn't say orange or 51. (it was blank for the MAF, all the others were there,though)

I installed the fmu just now. (My whole garage smells like gas!) It wasn't that bad, except that one of the sheet metal screw heads broke off. It was a mission to get it out, and now I'm stuck with my 4th trip to the hardware store to get a replacement.

I'll post some pics of the pipes and stuff tonight.

Thanks