I want to know what parts i need to achieve 8psi on the greddy kit? I was also looking into the ultimate racing but no one over there has retured my emails. Any info on this kit?

 

First, you will need the eManage ignition timing harness and either the Profec e01 or the Greddy Support tool so you can dial in the retarding.

Second, you need a fuel system upgrade...check out this link for a current discussion on this issue.

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....threadid=77709

 

First, you will need the eManage ignition timing harness and either the Profec e01 or the Greddy Support tool so you can dial in the retarding.

Second, you need a fuel system upgrade...check out this link for a current discussion on this issue.

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....threadid=77709

 

Thanks gq, i see that your boost is 9psi how did you achieve that if you dont mind me asking?

 

gq, I think he means a list of parts that you would need or want to run safely at 8psi with the Greddy kit. I have actually seen you post a list before, but I can't find it right now, maybe you can remember it and post it.

 

Path to 8psi

1) Greddy Ignition Timing Harness ($29)
2) Diodes from Radio Shack or a geeky electronic parts store ($5)
3) Profec e-01 ($500) or the Greddy Support Tool Software and Cable ($100)
4) Walbro 255 replacement in-tank fuel pump ($89)..its a direct swap, but you need a dremel to grind away the plastic clip to make it all fit back together.

At this point, you can safetly run 8psi, once you retard timing, and clean up the fuel map...again..using the Profec e-01 or Greddy Support Tool.

Now, some people will have idling issues...running too rich at idle and cruise...some wont...its very hit-or-miss.

The next step to solve the above issue, or just to have a more robust system, is to plug the stock FPR and install a rising rate FPR, most of us bought the Aeromotive A-1000 6N. You'll need to run a return line, and make up some fitings and things.

Click on the link in my previous post for a good discussion on this. ACP has some cool commentary and pics of his project.


Footnote: If you are going to DIY, then I strongly recommend a wideband A/F guage so you can monitor A/F in real time...dont rely on what me or anyone else posts on here. As we've discovered countless times...these ECU's are strange, and will do weird things sometimes......so get the A/F guage (such as the AEM) to make sure you are safe.

With F/I...nothing is bolt-on or turn-key