LOL...ZRAYGO. The reason there have been no PE blow up's yet is becuase there have only been about 5 or so installations! My number might be off, but its safe to say there are many many more Greddy installations vs. PE.

I will say that the PE kit seems safer out of the box, becuase the factory boost is set at 4.4psi, and it comes with an upgraded fuel system as a standard piece, and those that increased it beyond that went with a very good TS reflash which retards timing and adds more fuel.

 

Besides that since ZRAYGO is building the engine and re sleeving as well the greddy kit is the obvious choice right now as it clearly can produce much more cfm and boost pressure than the pe kit will .. On a built block the rod strength no longer plays as a factor in which kit to run, the only thing i would focus any thought on is proper tuning. That will be the only limiting factor in whatever F/I system is chosen....that is until the powerlevels get so high that we discover the next weak link.....tranny? half shafts? rear end? who knows as of yet.

 

dude how can you NOT retard timing with a motor that was never meant to be turbocharged?

high compression motor with boost.. hmm

general rule of thumb usually is -1 degree per lb of boost! so you should have taken out at least -6 degrees...

sorry to hear man..

 

Well not often..............though when I'm wrong I will give you a full apology and a mile.

Mate just be careful that the 2001 book you are quoting is not using very old source material.

Hey I am only trying to help you guys.............to find the source of the problem and get your TT systems sorted well.............and I am talking from my own 30 years of TT and tuning experience........not trying to mislead you in any way............pm me if you would like to discuss further.

Peter

APS

 

I thought I would post a pic of the #5 spark plug. It is a IKH22, which is a Denso irridium two steps colder than stock.

 

looks very very fouled...too rich...but no signs of detonation. i dont see any metal specs on it...do you?

 

Looks like a lean condition joenismo.

 

Joe...

Have you dis-assembled the engine down to rods and piston's yet...

Although you will not be using the stock rod's again.. It might be of interest to check the length of the surviving rods.

Sleeve wear measured with an inside micrometer. Cylinder five sleeve variance could support the fuel washing theory.

Ring land's broken/ piston shape, is it now oval?

IKH22 - two steps colder.... humm

Question : Are the valves and valve retainers still intact?

Cam's intact?

Cheers Amy -

Inquiring mind's want to know..

 

looks to be running very rich. Thanks for the update.

 

Aren't the plugs supposed to be a brown color. I thought white was an indication it was running far too lean. No signs of detonation or metal specs in it. Here is one more pic. You can see the rod snapped right in half just below the piston. What if the rod stretched, some engines have very tight tolerances.

 

another pic closer up.

 

Black or brown is rich and white is fairly lean.

 

Amy Croft beat me to my own theory while I was posting. LOL. No I haven't torn down the engine yet. It has been to busy here at work, with one guy sick, and the other on vacation.

 

I know black is rich and white is lean, but i thought brown was lean! Why is rusty brown rich? What cause it to be brown?

 

blackish or dark brown is too rich. Light brown is normal, and whitish is too lean.

Detonation was not the cuase of this failure...that we know for sure...at least as sure as we can know at this point until the motor is disassembled. If there was detonation, it usually beats up the piston tops, ring lands, etc, and you'll see metal specs on the plug.

I am still sticking with my theory on defective rods. 6.6psi with no detonation should NOT have done this to a stock engine, runing at 10-11:1 A/F ratios.

The mystery continues.....

 

If you would pull a plug today - in a Modern engine.. Now replaced at about 100,000 miles

The spark plug will look new.. Just the electrode gap has gotten larger.

The color will be white.. as the engine has to be as clean running as possible... To pass stringent "Quote California Type Clean Air UnQuote" all cars are 50 State clean air..

I was quite suprised when Wld350Z pulled his plugs and they were factory fresh... We even put them in a box for future use.

We installed one range colder plugs, as prescribed by Greddy's
pizz-poor documentation.

Joe also went one step richer in the E-MAnage Map - that combination could have put this motor in the 10 to 1 fuel ratio that Sharif was pointing to.

I guess we will all know more after the pistons have been examined, and if piston five can not rotate in the sleeve.

The photo above does show a very clean break in the rod below the piston pin. But of course the piston is setting at TDC, while the rod bottom went through the case.

The failure occured at about 340rwhp or less...

GQ on dyno was 377rwhp - stock map - with Timing removal.
With good A/F ratio and a dyno that reads about 9% light.

Joe - I don't know if he had the Timing wiring in place? ( Joe? )
He would be running richer.. As the photo of plug shows - but that would not cause the detionation - the going one fuel step richer.. in the E-Manage - I'll leave that to GQ - and tuners.

I'm looking back at other Motor Failures and there seems to be a pattern..
It is this: The ECU wants to be AQMD correct - if the sensors read the engine is actually out of bounds - then the ECU
attempts an over-ride... "Go to clean air standards now"

Set engine to reduce fuel, increase ignition, let air flow greater to allow catalitic converter to burn off fuel.

Pop !

This is a wild *** guess, and should be treated as such.. Just paranoia..

Cheers Amy -

 

Could you have gotten a bad tank of gas? It's definitely a gamble in the modified turbo-car game. There are gas stations out there, from time to time, who use low octane in the high octane pumps. I know of a couple of stations in my area that have been brought up on fraud charges for that same reason. On the other hand, every car is a different case and will respond differently in the same conditions with the same mods.

 

doesnt really seem like a possibility at this point hense the pic he posted of his #5 plug jrotaryb. there were no traces of any lean conditions............

-justin

 

Hey guys. I spoke to Technosquare and they said that they would be willing to replace my emanage with the technosquare reflash. I have also been speaking with my mechanic who says that HKS has a stand-alone ems call FCON(?). I was told this was a very good system. they are telling me that the emanage system is very hard to work with and that i should change it out. he says that he can get it tuned but that it just takes a bit longer and might be more expensive.

My question is:

1. Is this true?

2. Why does'nt greddy have a specialty shop that is owned and
operated by Greddy themselves that tune thier own products?

HELP!!!

 

I was told the same thing by Tadashi at Technosquare. I'll probably have TS retune my car in a couple of weeks.