Well it looks like the worst that could happen did happen. I'm blowing past the whole left bank rings. thank you vortech. (really not i guess but i'm venting at the moment) it looks like i will have to get some intense motor work done. Questions: what should i get and from where? what should be the cost and does anyone know where i should go? (pref. PNW) this is not good at all. I thought that it might be the headgasket on that side but wouldn't you see a mixing of water and oil? because i'm not, so that might not be it, crappy news but i thought that i should share it. not that it will happen to you but more for FYI. here is the pic of the excact #s for each cylinder. let me know what you think

 

were you the one with excessive oil consumption, or were there other symptoms that prompted the check?

 

this stinks

bigtime.....

i havta ask:::

"thank you vortech" and not nitros??

how did you determine this??

hope all gets better.... soon

 

yeah that was me with the oil, plus the poor dyno #s

 

never once used the nitrious with the S/C and i only shot the 50 shot twice back in october. so i don't think that is it

 

okay, scratch that then....


next:: injector size:: why bigger??? (underpressured maybe??)

have you had ANY mods to the oem vortech mapping?? ifso, can you post your a/f charts and dyno charts???

lets see if we can get to the bottom of this!

again, sorry to even have to participate in this thread.......

 

Not sure what you mean by injector size being too big. They are the stock injectors, i haven't made any kind of engine mods except for the s/c and exhaust...everything else is stock for power (have no2 but haven't used it since last year) and this is what i have for my dyno and a/f.

 

any oil residue in the exhaust or back bumper? Maybe I need a check too? (1qt/1000)

 

no oil residue on the back, but smoke residue: yes, I checked the piping to the plenum to see if there was oil residue there but it was clean(maybe a broken s/c seal but not). So i've put out the word to some shops that i know to see what they come up with as far as what to do from here. I would rather get some input from people who have already done it, or know what to do. all that i have learned so far has come from some very informative people here that have lead me to do some of my own research but the workings of building up your VQ. i'm still learning.

 

What you need to do next is a leak down test to find out exactly where or why you are down on compression on the right side. Seems awful fishy to me. I just don't understand why all your cylinders are equal and low at the same time on the right side.

 

yeah its super fishy that they are all the same on the right. but i was standing there when the test was being performed. and thats what i saw, i will look into the leak down test. thanks joe.

 

Was a dyno done before the install? My installer dynoed before and after to see how much power I gained. This way you could decide if it was the kit or a preexisting condition.

There was another blown motor recently that was installed by a guy who blew like 6 other ATI S/C'ed motors. He had problems with oil consumption but when we saw his dyno we noticed it was all tuning mistakes. Your dyno looks fine, just weak.

I'm not sure that building your motor is the best option for you since you have the vortech S/C. You would need to upgrade the kit quite a bit to make use of the built motor. Your best option may be to locate a used motor and install it.

 

Man, take the supercharger off and get that thing back to stock. Take it to the dealer and let them fix it. It may sound shady, but it will save you tons of money!

Looking at your dyno, I can tell you were running a little lean and your HP is pretty low for that A/F setting at 7psi, which indictates that your motor was messed up before the dyno.

I'm not a A/F and motor expert but I wonder if you were running even leaner than before the compression got messed up?

I always here that the VQ rods are weak, not the rings. If you will be building the motor up, replace the rods and get better rings. If you still got money left you can swap the pistons, but only if you want to boost past 12 psi.

 

i never had it dyno'd before (now i regret it). I was thinking about finding a used motor and installing it but i don't know if for some reason that it was the kit i don't want the same thing to happen again. I wasn't thinking that i would completely build a racing motor but with the parts that i have to replace i would like to use stronger parts. I don't plan on being the biggest HP but i would like to have 400 rwhp. that would be fine. I have a 6k budget. I was planing on some minor work before this happened(headers test pipes) but i guess my hand is forced to work a little deeper into the engine(stock and/or aftermarket) it sucks but i'm not freaking out about it. thats just they way life works. not everything can go perfectly.

 

I can't take it off, the dealership already knows that it is on there. I went to the dealership to have the window grease TSB fixed (they were annoying me) and they all checked out my car, and its not like there really is another car that looks like mine in the area considering that i've only seen 5 the whole time i've been up here. the next dealership is 400 miles away and i don't like the fact that i would be cheating people. its not my style. well when i got it installed i never noticed any signs that it would be leaner but as soon as i drove up to oregon is when all the crap went wrong. go figure i can't seem to get when it went wrong or why or what or who. all i know is that it has happened and now i'm faced with some options and i'm just trying to figure out what would be best. plus i wanted to let everyone know how it was progressing.

Dustin.

 

The vortech kit can get you to 400rwhp and a stock engine can easily handle that. Your cheapest way out is to buy an engine. A used one will be much cheaper. I'm sure this would not be too hard to find with the number of Z's sold.

Personally, if it were me I would shoot for 500rwhp and build the motor up a bit

Did the dealer tell you what they thought happened? Did they say anything about blow by and the oil pan being tapped?

 

well i talked to the dealership about a new engine, which i wouldn't do mind you, but just to get a price and they told me that it would cost 8k installed for a long block VQ, guts included. too much for my blood. I would like to get 500rwhp that would be great! i guess it a matter of how much i want to spend on the block its self, minus headers, pipes, pulleys, etc. well i didn't have the dealer do the compression test, but i do know that they know i have a s/c and i might of mentioned that i was having a couple set backs. i never thought though it would turn out like this.

 

you sure you need an entire longblock, seems you would only need a shortblock, your heads should be fine.

 

You need to verify the compression of each cylinder and write it down and post the numbers. START THERE. Pistons ring are not the only cause of low compression. A burnt valve is another. hard to believe that all 3 cylinters in the same back are low?

 

It is very strange that the one side is all low. Are you losing any coolant at all? You will not necessarily see oil in your water or vice versa with a blown head-gasket. I kept losing a little water in my supra every so often, it wouldn't overheat, and there was no fluid mixing. In that car I could hear air bubbles in the water because the heater core was higher than the motor. It may not be in the 350, so you may not hear it. After a compression test, I found that the end cylinders were low, so I tore it down to replace the gasket. It was shot, but only between the cylinder and the water jackets. Something to check before spending a bunch of money on a new block.