J&S Safeguard installed on my 5AT PE TT
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Los Angeles, CA
J&S Safeguard installed on my 5AT PE TT
Hey Guys
As promised... I would like to report back on the addition of the J&S to my setup.
The install was carried out by Danny of Technosquare. John of J&S himself came out to TS to help with any problems that we may encounter. But there were NO PROBLEMS to be had today, the install went without a hitch, and the unit works as advertised! The install took about an hour.
First of all, for those who have not seen it, the craftsmanship is absolutely SUPERB. I, and Danny independently, pulled the section of the FSM describing the pins of the ECU harness, as the AT sedan (at least the 03.0 one) is the only one that physically has a different ECU harness (and a different ECU itself). We identified the "new" wires (location in the harness and colors), and the rest is history! No hiccups what's so ever! I just wish everything went this smoothly.
After the install, the three of us took a ride in the car in the 98degF weather. J&S confirmed how safe my timing is... it detected knock at only at 4300rpm (~peak of the torque curve), and the unit indicated that it pulling 1-2 degrees of timing, which was enough to make the even inaudible knock disappear. Given that we are pulling about 9 degrees of timing at redline (and a little less midrange - not sure of the exact number as Todashi is out of the country now), it was no surprise that we saw absolutely NO (not even a hint of) knocking detected anywhere else. Seeing as there is certainly more room to advance timing at this boost level (4.3psi), we decided to just increase boost (while keeping our eyes on the a/f) and "fill the timing 'void' " that way, instead of just advancing timing on my current setup (as I am not staying at this boost level for very long
). So that is the NEXT step.
I followed the situation throughout the day, and for the life of me could not detect any knock as the temperature dropped below 90-93degF. Later tonight night a bunch of Gs went to LACR (returned just a few hours ago), and the knock detect light NEVER came on (see the posts on my track times in a separate thread).
I am currently not using the "boost retard" or "rpm retard" feature of the J&S, only the knock retard. The reason is simple, my timing has already been pulled in the TS reflash; hence the only feature that I will be using is the "knock retard".
The J&S unit also has this very cool feature that John calls "low octane switch" or "nitrous switch". The switch that you connect to a wire provided will, when closed, retard timing by 4 or 2 degrees (selected by the user). This is how I am going to use it, and why the unit will partially remedy the situation of having the ability to vary boost while having only one program (flashed into the ECU). I will have a reflash programmed into the ECU for my "high" boost setting - say about 8.5 psi, while having the "low octane switch" in the "4degrees retarded position". Of course at this point, J&S or not, it is safe to just turn down boost to a lower level, but doing so AND switching off the "low octane" switch (and thus advancing timing by 4, or 2, degrees) will allow for a more "optimized" low boost setting. Also, another cool idea, at the high boost setting the, timing can be advance in this manner to allow for the engine to make very good use of higher octane fuels. Of course this would be done in a careful manner, but regardless of anything, it is good to know that J&S is there to take care of any dangerous situation WAY BEFORE things turn ugly.
This unit, and John and J&S as a company, earn my full endorsement, for what it's worth. This, I feel so far, is the best $480 (plus tax, etc) one can spend on an FI car. The "lost/untapped" power that this can recover notwithstanding, the peace of mind that it offers is invaluable.
Gurgen
As promised... I would like to report back on the addition of the J&S to my setup.
The install was carried out by Danny of Technosquare. John of J&S himself came out to TS to help with any problems that we may encounter. But there were NO PROBLEMS to be had today, the install went without a hitch, and the unit works as advertised! The install took about an hour.
First of all, for those who have not seen it, the craftsmanship is absolutely SUPERB. I, and Danny independently, pulled the section of the FSM describing the pins of the ECU harness, as the AT sedan (at least the 03.0 one) is the only one that physically has a different ECU harness (and a different ECU itself). We identified the "new" wires (location in the harness and colors), and the rest is history! No hiccups what's so ever! I just wish everything went this smoothly.
After the install, the three of us took a ride in the car in the 98degF weather. J&S confirmed how safe my timing is... it detected knock at only at 4300rpm (~peak of the torque curve), and the unit indicated that it pulling 1-2 degrees of timing, which was enough to make the even inaudible knock disappear. Given that we are pulling about 9 degrees of timing at redline (and a little less midrange - not sure of the exact number as Todashi is out of the country now), it was no surprise that we saw absolutely NO (not even a hint of) knocking detected anywhere else. Seeing as there is certainly more room to advance timing at this boost level (4.3psi), we decided to just increase boost (while keeping our eyes on the a/f) and "fill the timing 'void' " that way, instead of just advancing timing on my current setup (as I am not staying at this boost level for very long
). So that is the NEXT step.I followed the situation throughout the day, and for the life of me could not detect any knock as the temperature dropped below 90-93degF. Later tonight night a bunch of Gs went to LACR (returned just a few hours ago), and the knock detect light NEVER came on (see the posts on my track times in a separate thread).
I am currently not using the "boost retard" or "rpm retard" feature of the J&S, only the knock retard. The reason is simple, my timing has already been pulled in the TS reflash; hence the only feature that I will be using is the "knock retard".
The J&S unit also has this very cool feature that John calls "low octane switch" or "nitrous switch". The switch that you connect to a wire provided will, when closed, retard timing by 4 or 2 degrees (selected by the user). This is how I am going to use it, and why the unit will partially remedy the situation of having the ability to vary boost while having only one program (flashed into the ECU). I will have a reflash programmed into the ECU for my "high" boost setting - say about 8.5 psi, while having the "low octane switch" in the "4degrees retarded position". Of course at this point, J&S or not, it is safe to just turn down boost to a lower level, but doing so AND switching off the "low octane" switch (and thus advancing timing by 4, or 2, degrees) will allow for a more "optimized" low boost setting. Also, another cool idea, at the high boost setting the, timing can be advance in this manner to allow for the engine to make very good use of higher octane fuels. Of course this would be done in a careful manner, but regardless of anything, it is good to know that J&S is there to take care of any dangerous situation WAY BEFORE things turn ugly.
This unit, and John and J&S as a company, earn my full endorsement, for what it's worth. This, I feel so far, is the best $480 (plus tax, etc) one can spend on an FI car. The "lost/untapped" power that this can recover notwithstanding, the peace of mind that it offers is invaluable.
Gurgen
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