Mods are listed in my signature.

The Greddy E-Manage from the kit has still not been touched... this is the original tune from Greddy.

I just installed the Walbro 255lph fuel pump. You can see at 5 psi it was way too rich.

at 6 and 6.5 psi you can see the a/f coming up at the top... its safe but not where i like it. I am gonna see if i can get the E-Manage to add fuel there.

The red run is 6.5psi boost.

 

oh yea... the car still has the original plugs with 23,000 miles on them. the car is running 100 octane fuel... which is all i EVER run it on.

ALSO... the smoothing is turned completely off. the car is really running that smooth... no misfiring or knocking.

I am sure the car would have made a bit more power at 5psi before the fuel pump install... its just too rich now.

The timing is also stock... I have not installed the E-Manage timing harness. I would NOT run the car like this without the 100 octane fuel. I will be putting in the timing harness when I have time just to give me a safty margin.

The car proved itself to hold up over 5200 miles of beating the living **** out of it at base Greddy boost. I thought it deserved to get a little more boost now.

-Charles
CJ Motorsports

 

now get that baby to the track!

nice numbers man, keep up the good work

jim

 

he did and got a 13.2???

must be traction

 

supra crazy: when I went to the track i was on the stock tires and running base boost. I could not hook up in first or second.

I am considering taking the car to the track tommarow on drag radials. With a 100% perfect run the car could possibly have a high 11 in it... but more than likely I will screw it all up and be running 12's.

 

Nice work phunk.

Your Walbro 255 helped, but the stock FPR is whats causing you to go rich at higher RPM. You will likely find that adding fuel in the higher RPM area will not improve the curve, becuase your fuel pressure is dropping in that area, and your injectors are at 100% duty cycle.

Time for the rising rate FPR and return line...and an FPR plug. I remember you saying you have all those parts..but at least you can run the car safely for a while with the Walbro 255, until you get the time to install the rest of the fuel system

Also, the 100octane gas is adding major HP to that curve. Since there will be no signs of detonation, I bet your stock ECU is running a nice and aggressive timing map, and not backing off due to the knock sensor triggering. Do you, by chance, have an OBD II scanner and can tell us what the timing is beyond 5500rpm?

 

gq: your right, your right, and your right.

I do have a OBDII scanner but the damn thing updates so slow that I would never be able to see whats going on. The scanner I have, regardless of the fact that its top of the line and almost $3000, does not give you the option to view only a few select things... you have to view every parameter at once... which really slows down the refresh rate. I hate this piece of junk.

 

Phunk

100 octane IS adding a lot of power... it is probably good for about 6-8 degrees (if it is in fact pure 100 octane) ... now that can be 20-40 hp. But those are good numbers nonthe less. An aeromotive fpr and some more tuning and you are done.

G

 

has anyone tried adding a bypass for the stock FPR? perhaps drilling a small hole somewhere to bleed off some of the excess fuel would allow the stock regulator to keep up. This would of course limit your total fuel flow capacity since there would be a hole that never shuts... but its more than likely that the stock regulator never completely blocks off while trying to keep the pressure from dropping.

 

ACP had a plug machined specifically to replace the stocker...but his machinist fell off the face of the earth!

Z1 Motorsports did an FPR installed, and used some specially plastic and epoxies (glue) to plug up the FPR. Drilling a hole in the FPR is not a good idea. The idea is to completely disable that darn thing, so your aftermarket 1:1 FPR can do its job properly.

Phunk, if you do the fuel system, I know lots of members that would be interested in a turn-key version of what you are planning. Lines, fittings, adaptors. You do good work, so I'm sure the product would be flawless........do I smell another group-buy!!??

 

gq: I could plug the stock regulator no problem. My idea of drilling the hole to bleed pressure would be a band-aid to temporarily get me by without adding a return line or external regulator. If I tried such a thing I wouldnt drill a hole in the actual regulator itself... but in the plastic housing next to it. I might pull the crap back out and take a look at it and possibly try it and see what happens. I could always plug the hole if it doesnt work out. I am thinking that the only benefit of doing this is that it could possible lean out the mid-range a little still without having to touch the E-Manage tune.

The only reason I consider such things is because A: I dont want to go all out and install everything just yet... and B: I kinda like the idea of playing around with the bare minimum of parts needed to do some R&D on less expensive solutions for my customers cars.

-Charles

 

GQ: Do you have AOL Instant Messaging? Since we talk so much on here... it would be cool to have a direct form of communication.

 

pm sent.

 

Nice #s Charles!

By my finding, the plug is not necessary (I had a machined plug that I had made, and I am not using it)

I have logged my fuel pressure with the valve (I belive it is a valve not fpr, and the valve controls fuel coming from the driver side) and it does not change, and it rises 1.1, like it suppose to

Is my fuel system just over powering it ?
Maybe, but I still belive what I posted here

Stock FPR / Plug

 

ACP, I am still a bit confuses, becuase I thought part of the orginaly problem was that you installed the return line on the driver's side...and this is what cuased your issue. So how did you confirm that the pressure was the same, with and without that valve, but with your return line on the passenger side. The Walbro 255 will overpower the stock FPR at moderate levels of power, but are you saying this is no dip....even near redline?

One other experiment would be to check the fuel pressure with the vaccum line disconnected, and see if the pressure drops as your go WOT towards redline.

And ACP, thanks for the Clutchmaster Stage III clutch...it just shipped...and I should have it in a few days. But now my car is late. The truck lid they recieved from Nissan had a big dent in it, so they ordered a new one. Should have my car back by middle of next week.

 

when I had the plug in, the feed was going to the d/s

what happend to me, is I used all the gas on the p/s, and the d/s was FULL

So I removed the d/s assemble, added a long hose to the return, and routed in the tank, up and over to the p/s side.
Couple hundred miles later, I hear a louder noise coming from the return, and took it out again, and the hose blew off (and I put it on with clamp, not high pressure fiting, I guess 50-60 psi was to much)
But there was still more gas in the d/s
So I redid everything
Put the return on the p/s assembly
Removed the plug and put in the valve
And all is well

My runs where I recorded fuel pressure, were up to 6500, 2nd and 3rd gear, up to 8.5 lbs of boost. Never dropped a lbs.

Like I said, these are my finding
But when I was told that the Evo guys went through the same things as me (thinking it was a fpr and making a plug) and then later finding out that it was just a valve to control the levels on both sides, I figured it must be it

Neither SPG or UR care to discuss their finding (tried to share with them, but they were not interested in discussing this, because I am putting together a fuel system package for 350z)

I have seen UR new fuel pump assembly, and I don't belive it is correct.
They have theirs plugged, return on p/s and then a feed plummed into the bottom with a hose, that is suppose to go in the p/s tank, up and over to the driver side.

IMO, they plugged the valve, didn't have the same levels on both tanks, and added this line to try to correct this.
When, if they did not plug this, there would be no need for any plumming or hose to the d/s

 

Maybe Bini2 can chime in. He took us car to Z1 motorsports and they "plugged" the stock valve with some plastic epoxy, and ran just a simple return to the passenger side. No other changes, and his pressure is stable, and he fuel is draining properly.

I guess that's why I am still a bit confused. Seems like everything works differently on this car with different people!

But hey, when you are ready...I would be interested in your fuel setup.

 

So what your saying, ACP, is if you just leave the fuel pump assembly alone, aside from putting a return line back in the top of the p/s... then all will be well with the leveling of the tank? I have been thinking about putting in the external regulator. I would like to see what this car lays down with another 1.5 psi.

Like 10 minutes after putting the pump assembly back in the car I was kicking myself in the *** for not taking a detailed look at what the hell is going on back there.

-Charles