Vortech Supercharged G-Sedan (write-up)
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From: Northern Virginia
Vortech Supercharged G-Sedan (write-up)
I just typed a huge write up on my super charger install, attached a photo that was too big and lost the complete write up. I'm pissed needless to say. I am not typing all that again.
Vortech is good
I like FI
Good night
Vortech is good
I like FI
Good night
o come on. i have been waitin for this forever gspot.
looks good though. cant wait to get back down there and see it in person. what pulley are you using? the 2.87? or the 3.33?
looks good though. cant wait to get back down there and see it in person. what pulley are you using? the 2.87? or the 3.33?
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 139
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From: Tampa
Re: Vortech Supercharged G-Sedan (write-up)
Originally posted by gspot35
I just typed a huge write up on my super charger install, attached a photo that was too big and lost the complete write up. I'm pissed needless to say. I am not typing all that again.
Vortech is good
I like FI
Good night
I just typed a huge write up on my super charger install, attached a photo that was too big and lost the complete write up. I'm pissed needless to say. I am not typing all that again.
Vortech is good
I like FI
Good night
Trending Topics
Ooooohhhh, aaaahhhhh. I miss my Vortech kit already, sniffle sniffle (just finished taking it off the car last night--anyone want it?)...
Are you using esemes' R4 maps as is or did you have to modify them? I'm curious how "off" his program was on your car. Also, I'd love to see dyno results when you have them.
My advice from one Vortech lover to another...
(1) Make darn sure that the intake piping doesn't rub the A/C lines. Trust me, it's expensive to replace the A/C line (since you have to remove the compressor to do so). If you see a piece of pipe that looks close to, say, the A/C belt when you are parked on the ramps, chances are *really* good that it will rub at WOT.
(2) Routinely check your belts. If the serpentine belt is too loose (and it will loosen over time), you'll lose boost which in some cases can actually cause you to run lean. If the cog belt is too tight your blower will be noisy.
(3) Check underneath the car for leaky fuel lines and/or leaky oil lines. My installer didn't do a very good job resealing the oil pan and while I never got enough seepage to noticeably reduce the amount of oil, it did mean I had to wipe the inside of the underbody cover from time to time.
(4) Attune yourself to the sound of your car. You'll have a full orchestra of noises to memorize (the compressor, the fuel pump, the belts, the pulleys, etc). If you hear anything strange figure it out immediately. If you hear detonation knock, don't try to do a 5th gear pull on the highway to reproduce the noise--instead, get to a dyno asap.
(5) Enjoy the car. At first it will seem crazy fast. I banged off the rev limiter on numerous occasions at first because I simply was not accustomed to such speed. After a while, though, it no longer seemed fast and I grew bored. I wish I could have simply reached a point (say 350rwhp) where I was totaly, absolutely satisfied and lived happily ever after w/o needs for further mods.
Good luck!
--Steve
Are you using esemes' R4 maps as is or did you have to modify them? I'm curious how "off" his program was on your car. Also, I'd love to see dyno results when you have them.
My advice from one Vortech lover to another...
(1) Make darn sure that the intake piping doesn't rub the A/C lines. Trust me, it's expensive to replace the A/C line (since you have to remove the compressor to do so). If you see a piece of pipe that looks close to, say, the A/C belt when you are parked on the ramps, chances are *really* good that it will rub at WOT.
(2) Routinely check your belts. If the serpentine belt is too loose (and it will loosen over time), you'll lose boost which in some cases can actually cause you to run lean. If the cog belt is too tight your blower will be noisy.
(3) Check underneath the car for leaky fuel lines and/or leaky oil lines. My installer didn't do a very good job resealing the oil pan and while I never got enough seepage to noticeably reduce the amount of oil, it did mean I had to wipe the inside of the underbody cover from time to time.
(4) Attune yourself to the sound of your car. You'll have a full orchestra of noises to memorize (the compressor, the fuel pump, the belts, the pulleys, etc). If you hear anything strange figure it out immediately. If you hear detonation knock, don't try to do a 5th gear pull on the highway to reproduce the noise--instead, get to a dyno asap.
(5) Enjoy the car. At first it will seem crazy fast. I banged off the rev limiter on numerous occasions at first because I simply was not accustomed to such speed. After a while, though, it no longer seemed fast and I grew bored. I wish I could have simply reached a point (say 350rwhp) where I was totaly, absolutely satisfied and lived happily ever after w/o needs for further mods.
Good luck!
--Steve
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Carson, CA
Steve,
This is Randys_G from G35Driver. Can you PM me over there and send me your phone #?
-Randy
This is Randys_G from G35Driver. Can you PM me over there and send me your phone #?
-Randy
Originally posted by zimbo
Ooooohhhh, aaaahhhhh. I miss my Vortech kit already, sniffle sniffle (just finished taking it off the car last night--anyone want it?)...
Are you using esemes' R4 maps as is or did you have to modify them? I'm curious how "off" his program was on your car. Also, I'd love to see dyno results when you have them.
My advice from one Vortech lover to another...
(1) Make darn sure that the intake piping doesn't rub the A/C lines. Trust me, it's expensive to replace the A/C line (since you have to remove the compressor to do so). If you see a piece of pipe that looks close to, say, the A/C belt when you are parked on the ramps, chances are *really* good that it will rub at WOT.
(2) Routinely check your belts. If the serpentine belt is too loose (and it will loosen over time), you'll lose boost which in some cases can actually cause you to run lean. If the cog belt is too tight your blower will be noisy.
(3) Check underneath the car for leaky fuel lines and/or leaky oil lines. My installer didn't do a very good job resealing the oil pan and while I never got enough seepage to noticeably reduce the amount of oil, it did mean I had to wipe the inside of the underbody cover from time to time.
(4) Attune yourself to the sound of your car. You'll have a full orchestra of noises to memorize (the compressor, the fuel pump, the belts, the pulleys, etc). If you hear anything strange figure it out immediately. If you hear detonation knock, don't try to do a 5th gear pull on the highway to reproduce the noise--instead, get to a dyno asap.
(5) Enjoy the car. At first it will seem crazy fast. I banged off the rev limiter on numerous occasions at first because I simply was not accustomed to such speed. After a while, though, it no longer seemed fast and I grew bored. I wish I could have simply reached a point (say 350rwhp) where I was totaly, absolutely satisfied and lived happily ever after w/o needs for further mods.
Good luck!
--Steve
Ooooohhhh, aaaahhhhh. I miss my Vortech kit already, sniffle sniffle (just finished taking it off the car last night--anyone want it?)...
Are you using esemes' R4 maps as is or did you have to modify them? I'm curious how "off" his program was on your car. Also, I'd love to see dyno results when you have them.
My advice from one Vortech lover to another...
(1) Make darn sure that the intake piping doesn't rub the A/C lines. Trust me, it's expensive to replace the A/C line (since you have to remove the compressor to do so). If you see a piece of pipe that looks close to, say, the A/C belt when you are parked on the ramps, chances are *really* good that it will rub at WOT.
(2) Routinely check your belts. If the serpentine belt is too loose (and it will loosen over time), you'll lose boost which in some cases can actually cause you to run lean. If the cog belt is too tight your blower will be noisy.
(3) Check underneath the car for leaky fuel lines and/or leaky oil lines. My installer didn't do a very good job resealing the oil pan and while I never got enough seepage to noticeably reduce the amount of oil, it did mean I had to wipe the inside of the underbody cover from time to time.
(4) Attune yourself to the sound of your car. You'll have a full orchestra of noises to memorize (the compressor, the fuel pump, the belts, the pulleys, etc). If you hear anything strange figure it out immediately. If you hear detonation knock, don't try to do a 5th gear pull on the highway to reproduce the noise--instead, get to a dyno asap.
(5) Enjoy the car. At first it will seem crazy fast. I banged off the rev limiter on numerous occasions at first because I simply was not accustomed to such speed. After a while, though, it no longer seemed fast and I grew bored. I wish I could have simply reached a point (say 350rwhp) where I was totaly, absolutely satisfied and lived happily ever after w/o needs for further mods.
Good luck!
--Steve
Originally posted by ZsBiggerBrother
This is Randys_G from G35Driver. Can you PM me over there and send me your phone #?
This is Randys_G from G35Driver. Can you PM me over there and send me your phone #?
--Steve
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 393
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From: Northern Virginia
Alright guys, I just got back from the dyno a little while ago. I'm making roughly 360whp. The last printed run was 353whp and the tuner made a few more tweaks. Unfortuantly time was running short so we made a few somwhat back to back runs to clean up the map. This didn't show good hp but should prove to be around 360 or more once the engine gets to norm temps. Torque was around 300-310 I assume. This was on a Mustang dyno btw. After getting on the road after the dyno I could definetly feel the 30hp I picked up in one hour. What a rush!!!
I have videos if anyone wants to host for me.
As for using Esemes's maps, it turned out that his map was giving me 14:1 A:F at/near redline. Very scary! The only conclusion I can come up with is I have the TS flash and he didn't. If my TB was staying wide open through the revs and his wasn't that would explain why I was getting so much more air at redline. Any other opinions are welcome. All in all the maps seemed to line up pretty good. Like I said the only real tweaking the tuner (same one) had to do was near the redline to get rid of the lean condition.
Timrod, sorry I tried calling but the phone was busy (get rid of dial-up!!!) I have the program now. Let's get together some time and compare notes.
Zimbo, I'd like to talk to you about some of these noises that come from my engine compartment. Can we chat on the phone sometime? PM me if so.
Here's something I've been dealing with and haven't mentioned.
After getting my car back from the install it was having problems shutting off. I would shut it off remove the key and it was still idling away. The went on for a few days and it only happened occasionally. I eventually started pulling the fuel injector fuse to kill the engine which slowly killed the car in about 2 minutes. Today it finally hit me! When the new thermo control fans were running the internal relay was feeding 12V back to the car system and keeping it running back feeding the electrical system. So now I have to turn the thermo down to cut the engine. This will be corrected but needless to say it kept me up for a few days. Think of it as a turbo timer that is temp controlled. It was very scary situation for a while, but will be corrected for now.
Has anyone ever thought about mounting three gauges on top of the speedo/tach pod. Kind of like fiberglassing them right to the top. I'm going to look into this.
I have videos if anyone wants to host for me.
As for using Esemes's maps, it turned out that his map was giving me 14:1 A:F at/near redline. Very scary! The only conclusion I can come up with is I have the TS flash and he didn't. If my TB was staying wide open through the revs and his wasn't that would explain why I was getting so much more air at redline. Any other opinions are welcome. All in all the maps seemed to line up pretty good. Like I said the only real tweaking the tuner (same one) had to do was near the redline to get rid of the lean condition.
Timrod, sorry I tried calling but the phone was busy (get rid of dial-up!!!) I have the program now. Let's get together some time and compare notes.
Zimbo, I'd like to talk to you about some of these noises that come from my engine compartment. Can we chat on the phone sometime? PM me if so.
Here's something I've been dealing with and haven't mentioned.
After getting my car back from the install it was having problems shutting off. I would shut it off remove the key and it was still idling away. The went on for a few days and it only happened occasionally. I eventually started pulling the fuel injector fuse to kill the engine which slowly killed the car in about 2 minutes. Today it finally hit me! When the new thermo control fans were running the internal relay was feeding 12V back to the car system and keeping it running back feeding the electrical system. So now I have to turn the thermo down to cut the engine. This will be corrected but needless to say it kept me up for a few days. Think of it as a turbo timer that is temp controlled. It was very scary situation for a while, but will be corrected for now.
Has anyone ever thought about mounting three gauges on top of the speedo/tach pod. Kind of like fiberglassing them right to the top. I'm going to look into this.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 393
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From: Northern Virginia
Originally posted by gspot35
Registered User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
From: Tampa
Originally posted by gspot35
Alright guys, I just got back from the dyno a little while ago. I'm making roughly 360whp. The last printed run was 353whp and the tuner made a few more tweaks. Unfortuantly time was running short so we made a few somwhat back to back runs to clean up the map. This didn't show good hp but should prove to be around 360 or more once the engine gets to norm temps. Torque was around 300-310 I assume. This was on a Mustang dyno btw. After getting on the road after the dyno I could definetly feel the 30hp I picked up in one hour. What a rush!!!
I have videos if anyone wants to host for me.
As for using Esemes's maps, it turned out that his map was giving me 14:1 A:F at/near redline. Very scary! The only conclusion I can come up with is I have the TS flash and he didn't. If my TB was staying wide open through the revs and his wasn't that would explain why I was getting so much more air at redline. Any other opinions are welcome. All in all the maps seemed to line up pretty good. Like I said the only real tweaking the tuner (same one) had to do was near the redline to get rid of the lean condition.
Timrod, sorry I tried calling but the phone was busy (get rid of dial-up!!!) I have the program now. Let's get together some time and compare notes.
Zimbo, I'd like to talk to you about some of these noises that come from my engine compartment. Can we chat on the phone sometime? PM me if so.
Here's something I've been dealing with and haven't mentioned.
After getting my car back from the install it was having problems shutting off. I would shut it off remove the key and it was still idling away. The went on for a few days and it only happened occasionally. I eventually started pulling the fuel injector fuse to kill the engine which slowly killed the car in about 2 minutes. Today it finally hit me! When the new thermo control fans were running the internal relay was feeding 12V back to the car system and keeping it running back feeding the electrical system. So now I have to turn the thermo down to cut the engine. This will be corrected but needless to say it kept me up for a few days. Think of it as a turbo timer that is temp controlled. It was very scary situation for a while, but will be corrected for now.
Has anyone ever thought about mounting three gauges on top of the speedo/tach pod. Kind of like fiberglassing them right to the top. I'm going to look into this.
Alright guys, I just got back from the dyno a little while ago. I'm making roughly 360whp. The last printed run was 353whp and the tuner made a few more tweaks. Unfortuantly time was running short so we made a few somwhat back to back runs to clean up the map. This didn't show good hp but should prove to be around 360 or more once the engine gets to norm temps. Torque was around 300-310 I assume. This was on a Mustang dyno btw. After getting on the road after the dyno I could definetly feel the 30hp I picked up in one hour. What a rush!!!
I have videos if anyone wants to host for me.
As for using Esemes's maps, it turned out that his map was giving me 14:1 A:F at/near redline. Very scary! The only conclusion I can come up with is I have the TS flash and he didn't. If my TB was staying wide open through the revs and his wasn't that would explain why I was getting so much more air at redline. Any other opinions are welcome. All in all the maps seemed to line up pretty good. Like I said the only real tweaking the tuner (same one) had to do was near the redline to get rid of the lean condition.
Timrod, sorry I tried calling but the phone was busy (get rid of dial-up!!!) I have the program now. Let's get together some time and compare notes.
Zimbo, I'd like to talk to you about some of these noises that come from my engine compartment. Can we chat on the phone sometime? PM me if so.
Here's something I've been dealing with and haven't mentioned.
After getting my car back from the install it was having problems shutting off. I would shut it off remove the key and it was still idling away. The went on for a few days and it only happened occasionally. I eventually started pulling the fuel injector fuse to kill the engine which slowly killed the car in about 2 minutes. Today it finally hit me! When the new thermo control fans were running the internal relay was feeding 12V back to the car system and keeping it running back feeding the electrical system. So now I have to turn the thermo down to cut the engine. This will be corrected but needless to say it kept me up for a few days. Think of it as a turbo timer that is temp controlled. It was very scary situation for a while, but will be corrected for now.
Has anyone ever thought about mounting three gauges on top of the speedo/tach pod. Kind of like fiberglassing them right to the top. I'm going to look into this.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 393
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From: Northern Virginia
Originally posted by lorinserbenz
You could probably use this one and mold a third one in the center. Not going to go with the Zietronix?
You could probably use this one and mold a third one in the center. Not going to go with the Zietronix?
Registered User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
From: Tampa
Originally posted by gspot35
L, where did you find that??? Tell me more. That would work. I'm still thinking of the Zeitronix, but I would like to use the gauges I have. You mentioned you knew a guy that may be able to help me. PM me if you get a chance.
L, where did you find that??? Tell me more. That would work. I'm still thinking of the Zeitronix, but I would like to use the gauges I have. You mentioned you knew a guy that may be able to help me. PM me if you get a chance.
gspot35 and lorinserbenz, where did you guys go for installation and tuning? I'm in the Tampa area as well, as you know lorinser, and would like to know an experienced tuner, just in case 
Also, what kind of rates did you guys pay for install/tuning? Feel free to PM me if you'd like.
Also, what kind of rates did you guys pay for install/tuning? Feel free to PM me if you'd like.
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