Hi all,
I recently (3-4mo) ago had my Vortech installed at their facility. This past week I had been having some problems with the car not starting. It would chug and chug but no luck getting it to start. I knew it wasn't the battery because I checked the voltage (while it was chugging away) and it was still up near 11v.
Anyhow, I finally broke down--mostly because I dont have one of those 5k diagnostic computers--and took it to the infiniti dealership. They told me if the problem was caused by the Vortech then I would have to pay for them to fix it. Fair enough. Today they called me back and sure enough they said it was a wiring problem from the Vortech. I wanted to be sure they were not screwin with me so I drove down and they showed me the wire ( that had been crimped but was loose in the pan connector. Sometimes made the connection and sometimes did not. It was the terminal 115 wire from the ecm to black on the timing controller. I looked it up and that appears to be a ground.

So I may be wrong but I am guessing the timing controller will not turn on with no ground (reference voltage). Therefore no fuel supplied when trying to start?

Anyhow, it cost me ~$150 for the techs at infiniti to find and fix the problem. Think this is something that would be covered under Vortech warranty?

 

It should be - especially if they did the install. Make your case to them!

Please let us know if they were stand-up, or put up a fuss about it.

 

All you can do is call them and ask

 

Yeah i'll give them a call tomorrow and see. Can't hurt to ask=)

 

Was it a T-tap or a butt connector? I was baffled why Vortechs instruction recommend to solder the connections but include butt connectors and T-taps for the most important conncetions (power and ground).
T-taps are garbage, the slightly pierce the wire and over time can corrode causing a bad connection. You installer should definatly pay your bill at Infiniti.

 

How much was it for them to just look at it ...what was the fix did the re-crimp it solder it. I dont think the installer is going to warranty it, I would think about soldering all connectors or going with bettter stronger connectors

 

From vortech manual:NOTE: Soldered wire connections are more
sound than crimp-on connectors
because they can be inspected. It is up
to the installer to guarantee good connections.
If there is any doubt, or the
vehicle performs erratically, solder and
insulate each connection.

 

Lorinserbenz:
Yes it was a T-tap that became disconnected.

Bigern:
I would definitely agree with you regarding the warranty if I used an outside installer. Vortech actually did the install though=). The cost was actually due to troubleshooting (time). Trying to figure out were the problem stemmed. The labor will take obviously only 15-20 mins to solder those up.

Actually, the dealer was waiting for my OK to fix it because I was going to have to pay for this fix. I went down to the dealership and they showed me the problem. I could have theoretically just said, "naw don't fix it I will just fix it at home" and I would not have had to pay a single penny. But since most of the time was troubleshooting I felt as though I would be abusing them by doing that. The dealer then said hey since you are doing the 'right thing' I will split the cost with you. I was impressed.

 

Id be all over Vortech on this one. They should pay, considering the connection SHOULD be soldered as stated in their manual. Id be nice to them and chances are the will take care of you. You could even ask for some 9 and 10lb pulleys to "compensate" you.

 

After re-reading that vortech did it. I wholeheartidly agree that vortech should pick up the tab, I think their only gripe would be that you should of consulted with them after finding out the problem was their fault, but who could of known , sounds like you have a great service dept. good luck and yes ask for some pulleys..lol

 

Well I contacted Vortech today and they said they will not pay for it. Shame.

 

Well..at least you know what the problem was and its fixed . Chaulk it up to a learning curve with the SC . Ive payed a pretty penny so far , for a few lessons . Good luck....Bill

 

I had the same problem with the car not starting. My first thought was the T-connector so, I just reached up and "jiggled" the power wire and the car started. No problems since then but, I still need to solder the power and ground connections. I soldered and heat shrinked all of the connections but those two.