Good numbers. I just hope that ur engine holds up. I bent a rod at 7.1 psi. Timing was good and so was the fuel and the AF. It just didnt handle. I know of another guy who was running 7psi for a month with timing retard, good AF,fuel was good and he also bent a rod. I guess it just depends on the car. But i wish u all the luck. My advice would be just to leave it at the stock boost level till u adress the internals.

 

Fernando...do you think the Crank Angle Sensor / Cam Angle Sensor issue could have been the reason for your troubles?
Just asking because of the recent speculation of our internals being stronger than previously thought in light of this sensor issue. In other words, your engine failure, in particular rod failure, might of been brought about by a "bug" in engine managment and not necessarily overly weak rods. Just currious what you believe today after having gone through the ordeal of bending a rod and new information coming to light. Don't mean to highjack the thread btw. I'm not trying to advocate careless boosting with our stock internals ....just curious why some can run "big" power on stock internals ( phunk & others ) and some have met with such misfortune. I can't believe that there could be that much of a "production" differance in rod strength causing the "misfortune".

 

calimarc, I think you may be right...but nobody really knows at this point. It is all speculation on whether the crank angle wire issue, once corrected, would prevent rods from snapping.

I think the only way to know is to see how the APS kits perform. After 100 kits have been installed, we can tell if there is a problem. If nobody blows up their motor, we can honestly say its the tune in the unichip box included with the APS kit that is working its magic...that coupled with the shieled wire that APS puts in their kit.

Only time with tell.

 

A couple of things I have been curious about:

1. Does anyone else have problems with the shop getting an RPM signal on your Z, they just cannot get it to work for some reason on mine and some other 350Z's.

2. I noticed how much richer it got than the previous run, last time it was straight across now it dips into rich by a bit and I even took some fuel out after seeing this on a couple of street runs I logged.

 

Yeah, our ignition system is difficult to get a pick-up onto. I think there is a special type of pick-up that works better than others..but mine tends to be a bit scatter when they hook it up on the dyno....hmmm...could that be crank wire related??

Richness and leaness can vary on the day you do the dyno. So difficult to get perfect consistency...I see that quite often when I dyno.

 

Till this day i really dont know what caused the rod to bend. Engine coulndt handle high boost, not enough timing retard, fuel, or that crank angle sensor. Still dont know. But i really dont want that to happen again so i am just keeping it at the stock boost level for now. As GQ said only time will tell if that crank angle sensor was the problem.

 

if you are tuning via MAF, any inconsistency AT ALL in boost will have heavy effects on your A/F... this is because after 6psi or so, you are tuning only at the max output voltage of the MAF, and there is room to go down (and up) in the boost without the ECU seeing any difference at all. MAP based tuning should steady you out. IF your already in MAP based tuning, there are other factors. How are you tuning right now?

Using an E-Manage with MAP tuning accessory and Ignition Harness accessory gives you the highest ability in piggyback management that you are going to need... other than its lesser skills of scaling an injector when compared to the FCON S piggyback... but a reflash can assist anyone going over 440-500cc injectors to reduce requirement of scaling efforts on the piggyback end.

 

^^^Phunk will be doing this MAP tuning on my car when the rebuild is complete. Pressure based tuning to 20psi. ^^

 

I have the pressure harness from the e01 to the emanage to run off of boost but not the ignition harness for that I am using the J&S Safeguard. I think over the last few months I may have done some chages to it I can recall so I am going to compare the original MAP, I kept a copy untouched, with what I have now and see if that is the difference.

 

New dyno and leaned it out a bit got 401 on 8 psi, I think I am in need of a fuel return as I couldn't lean it out more in the middle without getting it too lean up top.

 

how much timing are you pulling out?

if you go to the dyno any time soon... I have an E-Manage map you could possibly try... from a customers car that made 411rwhp on 93 octane with stock exhaust and cars... just a the greddy kit, timing harness, and cjm fuel system. it might be a decent starting point for you... its worked on a couple cars I did here... one car was tuned on the 3rd pass cause it was so close.

 

That would be great hell I'll go back next time the shop goes to tune a car which is usually once a week, I also need to get with you for my final pieces of rth fuel return, as we communicated before I needed some of the individyal pieces but if I order it takes me to paypal per piece is ther another way or just call to order.

As for timing I am using the 2 degrees in RPM setting and 1/2 degree per pound in the boost setting so by redline I am pulling 6 degrees, is that enough?