Lorca@Z1

Thats about as well as I could have said it, but I wouldnt put a horsepwoer number on it. Actually I think that the reduction in weight will allow the engine to rev quicker, similar to the idea behind a lightened flywheel.

There is no doubt the Pauter rods are thicker and probably stronger. The issue becomes one of overkill when the rods are no longer the weakest point. It is much more likely that the forged piston will be the weak link wheather you use the Carrillo or the Pauter. Thats one reason I prefer the low Si pistons because they tend to deform when something goes wrong instead of shatter ... but thats another story.

Long story short, anyone who buys any quality upgraded rod should be completely happy with it, the question to ask yourself is do you want potentially unnecessary overkill or more performance for your money.

dansouliere

Couldin't have said it better myself

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

One more point...and then I will put this to rest. The low silicon pistons still contain 8% siliicon, vs. 12% for high silicon pistons. So the low silicon stuff will likely shatter and deform at almost the same way as the high Si stuff. Obviosuly low Si is stronger than high. If you REALLY want the bullet proof stuff, that will bend and melt, rather than shatter or crack...the the only option is zero silcon. But I'd suggest zero silicon only on racing motor. Their thermal expansion characteristics are terrible for street motors.

Now lets go build those motors!!

Lorca@Z1

Actually, Beeri at Arias gave me several examples of the benefits of low Si vs. high Si when things go bad. One example was a valve he had seen broken off and stuck in the piston. He said if this had been a high Si piston it would have shattered and probably popped the motor. I have seen the low Si pistons we buy from Wiseco melt when hit with a big dry shot of N20. Smoked like hell but everything stayed where it was supposed too ;-)

Daking350z

So what are the stock pistons Silicone content?The reason I ask is cause my buddies engine that blew had a really weird thing happen..It looks like #6 piston broke a peice off then melted itself to the center of the top of the piston..Has anyone ever seen this happen??The cylinder walls were fine and unharmed..

Lorca@Z1

Not sure about the stock pistons but they are cst, not forged. Four of the stock pistons we took out of the last blown motor with GReddy had cracked or broken ringlands. Generally a low Si piston will melt instead of crack because it is not as brittle as higher Si pistons.

Daking350z

Cool...Good learnings here guys..
I opted for the CP pistons (sponsorship)
and Pauter rods(got a good deal on them)
And ARP head studs...
Any suggestions for all the bearings and gaskets? Also would you put in a new Oil pump while your in there?


Oh and here is one more question I dont know if anyone considered..Is there a way to raise the compression by decking the heads or block??So as to bring the 8.5:1 to say 9.1:1???I was thinking a little block work could make up for the lost compression. no??

Lorca@Z1

Not sure why you want to do this. Why not just get the right compression forged piston?

Daking350z

Well only cause I alredy have the 8.5:1 CP's and figured it was worth a try to get it done..Can it be done??Or would you not reccomend it?

Thanks.

Lorca@Z1

Personally I think 8.5/1 is the right compression ratio. If you want to raise it to 9 or 9.5 I would sell the pistons and get new ones. If that is not possible I would talk to a good machine shop. I'll ask our machinist tomorrow, but I *think* that chainging the ratio that much is hard to do with just machining.

Enron Exec

Let me guess, the four pistons where #3- #6. I finally got to look at my pistons and rods and i had cracked/broken ring landings in those 4 cylinders. No scaring on the walls. On #6, i chipped a piece off the crown and could never find where it went.

Seems like the advanced timming on the stock ECU is really whats killing these engines. Not like this is news or anything but the evidence is really pilling up.

Looks like our plenums like to lean out the back cylinders and also the driver side bank. I hope APS puts out their FI plenum soon.

dansouliere

I second that request! lol

I refuse to buy their kit untill the plenum and upgraded fuel system is availible. The second its availible they will get my credit card number.

Daking350z

Actually APS found a major problem with the stock ECU and the way it adjusts timing..They found that on occasion it would fire multiple cyliders at once causing massive detonation..They corrected this problem with their piggyback...

etx

Don't deck the heads unless they warp. Just get the right compression pistons. You don't want to deal with the pain a shorter head causes with your timing chain, trust me.

Lorca@Z1

I'll take your pre-order anytime

Jsn350Z

Someone said the Greddy TT's are bigger then the APS ones? Z car garage in San Jose has installed both kits and when I asked which were bigger they said the APS turbos were probably a bit bigger.

Anywhere I can go to see the difference? Don't see anything on any vendors sites about it.

Lorca@Z1

Comparing the turbos on the GReddy kit vs those on the APS kit takes more than a visual inspection because they are very different turbos. The GReddy kit comes with Mitsubishi TD05-18G non ball bearing turbos with external wastegates.

The APS kit comes with internally wastegated Garrett GT (ball bearing) series turbos. The only real way to compare them is to get the flow charts for both, but even that is not a perfect comparison due to the fundimental differences in design.

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

The Garrett BB turbos use in the APS kit are nearly identical in size and construction, to the IHI turbos used in the PE kit.

Squill and Gurgen posted detailed compressor maps on all of the turbos..and it was clear that the Greddy was more efficient at higher boost levels...beyond 20psi...than the PE or Garrett turbos.

I am sure Peter will chime in, but the APS turbos are smaller and will max out sooner than the Greddy's.

I imagine they are still plenty good to 600whp or so.

Lorca@Z1

I had not seen the map of the APS (Garrett) turbo. I can say this though; according to the compressor maps, the PE1420 (IHI) flows better than the HKS (Garrett) 2530. However in the real world the PE1420 has never been close to the HKS 2530, let alone surpassed it.

Here are some observations from the Z32 (3 litre) world:

Turbo Average High

TD05-18G 610 744 (w/ N2o)
2530 530 704 (custom piping, no N2o)
1420 490 585 (w/N2o)

Daking350z

Here is a picture of that #6 piston..It was the last one on the drivers side,the last one on the "returnless" fuel system and clearly ran the leanest..