Notices
Forced Induction Turbochargers and Superchargers..Got Boost?

Greddy TT and Power Steering leak

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-06-2004, 09:15 AM
  #1  
westpak
SFZCC
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
 
westpak's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Lake Worth, FL
Posts: 7,419
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Greddy TT and Power Steering leak

I know, I know so shut up Sharif

I thought I had the power steering tube that goes by the passenger side turbo bent enough to clear the turbo but I guess I didn't, I started to smell a burning smell last couple of days and this morning I checked the fluid and it was low but upon backing the car out I saw the small puddle on the garage floor

I am going to be under the car anyway to do the fuel return system probably next weekend so I am going to address this issue, any recomendations? I figured replacing the stock tube would be useless but was thinking of replacing it with silicone tubing or similar so I could route it away from the turbo.
Old 11-06-2004, 08:16 PM
  #2  
Sharif@Forged
Sponsor
Forged Performance
iTrader: (92)
 
Sharif@Forged's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Marietta, GA
Posts: 13,733
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

LOL....well guess what...mine has sprung a small leak too!!!

I wasnt going to say anything about it. I double heat wrapped that sucker, and bent it...and it still eventually wore through. I ordered another set of lines from Nissan. One of them as a high pressure...the other is low pressure...so only the low pressure hose could be replaced with silicon or some other type of hose. I think I am just going to replace with stock lines, and then tripple-super-duper heatwrap/safetyware the damn thing..as best I can. It's not the heat that is melting my line...it is the abrasion of the line against the compressor housing of the turbo.
Old 11-07-2004, 07:39 AM
  #3  
redline tt
Registered User
 
redline tt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: florida
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

no probs w/mine yet...hope i dont..thats stinks guys.
Old 11-07-2004, 09:16 PM
  #4  
westpak
SFZCC
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
 
westpak's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Lake Worth, FL
Posts: 7,419
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Well, get under there and check, because mine took 3 months to rub through.
Old 11-07-2004, 10:10 PM
  #5  
TECHNOSQUARE
Registered User
 
TECHNOSQUARE's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Mine went out a while ago. It was fun too. I was running hard in Angeles Crest in the middle of the night and the steering started to get super heavy all of a sudden. Almost ended up in the mountain when it gave out all of a sudden. Was fun.
Old 11-08-2004, 04:34 AM
  #6  
westpak
SFZCC
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
 
westpak's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Lake Worth, FL
Posts: 7,419
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally posted by TECHNOSQUARE
Mine went out a while ago. It was fun too. I was running hard in Angeles Crest in the middle of the night and the steering started to get super heavy all of a sudden. Almost ended up in the mountain when it gave out all of a sudden. Was fun.
I have yet to get under it to check so it is sitting in the garage, so is the supply or return line? Did you replace the hole system as you canbuy justt he return line for cheaper? Or did yo ugo non-Nissan fix?
Old 11-08-2004, 04:58 AM
  #7  
Sharif@Forged
Sponsor
Forged Performance
iTrader: (92)
 
Sharif@Forged's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Marietta, GA
Posts: 13,733
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Nissan sells a hose overhaul kit, that includes more hoses than you need. It was $55 at Courtsey Nissan. That's what I bought....
Old 11-08-2004, 06:29 AM
  #8  
etx
Registered User
 
etx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Detroit, The Motor City
Posts: 949
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Well the black one that usually rubs on the compressor housing is the return from the rack to the resivour. Just use PSF hose to replace it, it works fine since it not under pressure. I had to cut that hardline out with a metal cutoff wheel to get it out of there, so good luck getting a new one in!
Old 11-08-2004, 08:49 AM
  #9  
Sharif@Forged
Sponsor
Forged Performance
iTrader: (92)
 
Sharif@Forged's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Marietta, GA
Posts: 13,733
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally posted by etx
Well the black one that usually rubs on the compressor housing is the return from the rack to the resivour. Just use PSF hose to replace it, it works fine since it not under pressure. I had to cut that hardline out with a metal cutoff wheel to get it out of there, so good luck getting a new one in!
What is PSF hose?

Also, did you just use to hose clamps to bridge the section you cut off?
Old 11-08-2004, 08:55 AM
  #10  
MIAPLAYA
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
 
MIAPLAYA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Escondido
Posts: 11,373
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Would it be possible to replace them with SS lines. Crown a company here in SD does all kinds of custom SS line stuff. I'm sure I could have them use my car to make some up for you...
Old 11-08-2004, 08:57 AM
  #11  
MIAPLAYA
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
 
MIAPLAYA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Escondido
Posts: 11,373
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Pic:

description: Our brake hoses are not only the absolute best on the market, they are also designed to meet the Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Standard MVSS-106. Unique in offering Teflon-Kevlar-Stainless brakelines, our performance series assemblies increase safety and brake responsiveness due to no appreciable volumetric expansion.

Most Applications available, or can be custom made.



Brake lines are a Teflon tube (A) wrapped in Kevlar (B) for strength, then a protective coating (C) and then the stainless (D). We are also covering our lines with a clear shrink for additional protection. Pressure tested to 4000 psi, and DOT approved.
Available for many applications, and can be custom made to your specs.
Old 11-08-2004, 09:51 AM
  #12  
etx
Registered User
 
etx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Detroit, The Motor City
Posts: 949
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally posted by gq_626
What is PSF hose?

Also, did you just use to hose clamps to bridge the section you cut off?
Power Steering Fluid. It's basically the same as tranny fluid cooler hose or oil cooler hose. You need to remove the whole hardline. It connects to rubber hose at the rack too. I just cut and removed the hardline and used the spring clamps on the stock hose to attach the new rubber hose. Super easy.

Stainless lines are a kinda overkill, don't ya think?
Old 11-08-2004, 10:21 AM
  #13  
MIAPLAYA
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
 
MIAPLAYA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Escondido
Posts: 11,373
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally posted by etx
Power Steering Fluid. It's basically the same as tranny fluid cooler hose or oil cooler hose. You need to remove the whole hardline. It connects to rubber hose at the rack too. I just cut and removed the hardline and used the spring clamps on the stock hose to attach the new rubber hose. Super easy.

Stainless lines are a kinda overkill, don't ya think?
yes and no..If there is that much heat there and you want to replace the hard line so you can route it out of the way SS lines I think are the way to go. The SS lines should be more resistant to heat right? Plus if I was replacing a hard line I'd like th added insurance of an SS line that can hold a LOt more pressure without expanding. Maybe I'm just paranoid but I mean they dont cost THAT much. Their brake lines run around 180 for a set so what would the cost of two lines be?
Old 11-08-2004, 12:51 PM
  #14  
etx
Registered User
 
etx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Detroit, The Motor City
Posts: 949
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally posted by MIAPLAYA
yes and no..If there is that much heat there and you want to replace the hard line so you can route it out of the way SS lines I think are the way to go. The SS lines should be more resistant to heat right? Plus if I was replacing a hard line I'd like th added insurance of an SS line that can hold a LOt more pressure without expanding. Maybe I'm just paranoid but I mean they dont cost THAT much. Their brake lines run around 180 for a set so what would the cost of two lines be?
Dude, you realize this a Zero Pressure return line. It's never under pressure, ever. Nissan used rubber line with spring clamps to attach it from the factory. Why spend $50 on a SS hose when you can use a $5 high-temp automotive hose? It's pointless. And beside that, you can't clamp SS lines. So then you wouldn't have any way to attach them without welding fittings in or something.
Old 11-08-2004, 12:53 PM
  #15  
MIAPLAYA
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
 
MIAPLAYA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Escondido
Posts: 11,373
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally posted by etx
Dude, you realize this a Zero Pressure return line. It's never under pressure, ever. Nissan used rubber line with spring clamps to attach it from the factory. Why spend $50 on a SS hose when you can use a $5 high-temp automotive hose? It's pointless. And beside that, you can't clamp SS lines. So then you wouldn't have any way to attach them without welding fittings in or something.
I didn't know that. I have not messed with this personally I was just trying to help out...
Old 11-08-2004, 04:31 PM
  #16  
Sharif@Forged
Sponsor
Forged Performance
iTrader: (92)
 
Sharif@Forged's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Marietta, GA
Posts: 13,733
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

LOL....dont mind ETX...he gets a little bent outta shape at time. kidding!

Mia...thanks for the offer.

I'm going to take ETX's advise and probably just cut a section of the pipe out, and then clamp a simple piece of rubber hose in its place.

i already have the new OEM hose on order...so I might see if a swap is easy. It is pretty damn tight in there...so I doubt it.
Old 11-08-2004, 10:04 PM
  #17  
westpak
SFZCC
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
 
westpak's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Lake Worth, FL
Posts: 7,419
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

It sounds like cutting out the section that is close to the turbos and replacing it with hose is the best/easiest option and just get the right clamps.
Old 11-09-2004, 06:56 AM
  #18  
etx
Registered User
 
etx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Detroit, The Motor City
Posts: 949
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally posted by westpak
It sounds like cutting out the section that is close to the turbos and replacing it with hose is the best/easiest option and just get the right clamps.
Just use the spring clamps. You can actually hold the new rubber line in place in the same mounting points for the hardline to keep it out of the way.

Yeah GQ, I get a little bent when people don't listen. I don't mean to come off as a *****, but I only post if I know. No speculation from me. MIA, sorry if I came off like an ****. Didn't mean to. You guys just crack me up sometimes, always over doing everything in true Z owner style! I've got three cars to keep happy so I can't pull that off.
Old 11-12-2004, 08:20 AM
  #19  
westpak
SFZCC
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
 
westpak's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Lake Worth, FL
Posts: 7,419
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Well we fixed it this morning and just went ahead and removed the rubber hoses at each end of the hard line and ran a rubber hose all of the way from the rack to the reservoir.
Old 08-03-2009, 11:15 AM
  #20  
RandomHer0
Registered User
iTrader: (9)
 
RandomHer0's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 1,732
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

I know this is an ancient thread, but I am currently experiencing the same issue even though I tried to keep the power steering lines out of the way my passenger turbo housing seems to have rubbed it's way through the top hardline (return?).

Can anyone confirm that just cutting out the problem section and clamping on high temp hose is a safe fix for the problem? Saves buying a new hardline and makes the fix that much more simple...

Thanks.


Quick Reply: Greddy TT and Power Steering leak



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 03:18 PM.