I got the car back on Thursday night, and have had so much fun driving it, I have not even been on the board. The car is so much smoother now and the torque comes on faster and harder. I cannot seem to figure out the lack of dyno numbers between me and phunk, but I think it has something to do with the TS flash and the VPro combo. The boost builds much faster, and I achieve full boost much sooner.

So everyone wants to know the dyno numbers, so here they are:

420 rwhp, 434 torque at 9.4 psi

I do not have the dyno graph to post, but should have it on Monday or Tuesday. I accidentally left it at the shop. We pulled an additional 2 degrees of timing on top of whatever TS pulled. We could not see what TS did to the timing, so we had to be on the safe side as far as the timing was concerned.

The A/F ratio is a safe 11.4 and the line is perfectly straight across on the dyno. I have little doubt I can daily drive this on the FCON at 420 whp until February when I have the motor built.

I also had the AAM return fuel system installed and switched to the Walbro pump and 1000cc injectors. The car is now a built motor away from my goals... I hope.

Special thanks to Charles (phunk) for helping with the minor glitches and all the research of the product. The car was tuned by Kenny Tran of Jotech.

 

 

Welcome to the, now 2 member club, of Turbo 350z that are tuned how they should be!

When you say that the boost builds much faster, are you saying that it builds faster than my car or it builds faster than you did on the piggybacks?

The TS timing should have no impact on your FCON V Pro timing... So I am confused about what you are saying about your timing?

Once again, congrats. The FCON runs the car smoother than stock ECU ever could with boost.

 

what's the cheapest price that anyone on this board has gotten them for? Still in the high 4 digit range?

 

the F Con is FAR cheaper than $4k...its not a matter really of the price, its a matter of finding someone who can tune it. They are a rare breed

 

Blast racing next to Motorex in cali

 

im not sure that blast racing is a US Pro-Dealer... they might be getting their stuff gray market from Japan... but I could be wrong. I just never have seen them listed as a US Pro Dealer.

Yea $4000 is a little crazy... closer to half that.

 

t32: the difference in our power output could be a few things. let me give you some ideas to look into.

First off, regardless that my car saw constant abuse, high mileage on the system, and conservative fuel mapping... my ignition timing was what I would consider extremely agressive. My car responding very very well to ignition timing, a lot more than leaning out the fuel. I did some pulls in the 12's:1 and the car really didnt seem to care enough for it to make it worth the addition risk. However the ignition timing constantly made shitloads of power until it got the point where i decided it was far enough and ill leave it where it was.

also... i exclusivly run my car on 100 octane, it is probably a large factor in why it appreciated aggressive timing.

another thing was my spark plugs. my car made that perfect dyno graph on 35,000 mile old ORIGINAL spark plug and STOCK gap. I put in some 1 heat range cooler iridium NGKs and brought the gap down to around .031 and my car hated it. If I recall correctly I lost about 20-25 hp like that, and I put the gap back up. 9 psi just wasnt enough strain on these coilpacks to justify the typically stupid small plug gaps. In my MR2s and Hondas we have to run down to .028-.030 to get them to fire with stock coils.

WIthout the 100 octane use, I would still say that a cooler plug should be used... but I never had a problem on the stockers. My car has never shown a sign of detonation or knock. But try keeping the gap at stock unless you have problems with missfiring.

 

Tim :

Really liked what you did with the striping on the side. Looks Good. Saw it at JoTech about two weeks ago. CJ

 

people i said 4 "DIGIT" range as in like $1XXX....but yea..only one i know closest to me is SP Engineering.

 

you are DEFINITELY TAKING ME FOR A RIDE NOW!

 

The car is building boost faster and reaching full boost sooner than it was with all the "bad aid" piggybacks I was running previously. As you may recall, I never used the e-Manage. I ran the Jotech fuel system instead.

I am using one step colder plugs, running pump gas, and very conservative timing. That is good to know that you have gone aggressive without problems. I am considering changing plugs to see if I can get the same results. Thanks again for all the advice and help.

It truly looks like the best way to tune a Z currently, and anyone looking for maximum tunability should consider this, but finding a dealer is not fun. Jotech actually became a dealer, just so they could do my car and Ellas1's car. Anyone in Texas has access to a Pro dealer now.

Cat - Your ride is only a 3 hour drive away. See you soon!

 

Do you have any pictures on the VPro install... Did you need to wire it in, or do they offer a harness adaptor?

 

Philthy - You buy the harness and it just plugs in. Only one portion needed to be hard wired. I do not have pics of the install, I was out of town when it was installed. Total install was very fast. It took more time to remove the piggybacks than to install the FCON and all sensors!

Spaz - The stripes are supposed to be a secret, but they have been removed. PM me and I'll fill you in. New brakes and wheels this week.

 

Actually, its a 3 member club. ZRAYGO has his installed as well, along with his AEBS sleeved fully built motor. I think they are waiting for full break in before doing the real tuning on it.

Not sure why the long break-in period. It is my understanding that built motors can be broken in on the dyno, and then you are pretty much good to go.

Tig--congrats man. You car is coming along real nicely.

 

So, this unit does fuel and timing? And it let's the stock ecu control everything else like idle, etc?

 

The stock ECU remains to run the windows, ABS, aA/C...etc...all the soft stuff.

But the stand-alone is actually running the fuel and timing maps...and essentially controlling the engine. The stock ECU has no effect on the motor at all....it just thinks it does.

 

Don't forget the removal of the MAF sensor.

 

Here is the dyno.. .418 whp, 433 tq