Hey nick,

Some things I noticed:

1.) Make sure you run the RPM's fairly high on that dremel. The 115 bit tends to bite hard if the rpms are too low, causing it to kick your dremel back. Don't let it sit there for two long either, it can get pretty hot.
If you use the dremel extender cord (looks like an engraving pen) it should be easier, but not really worth buying if it didn't come with your kit. The passenger side is damn hard to reach while using the actual dremel. (muffler pan gets in the way) It is still possible though, you just have to get creative.

2.) Wear some full protective goggles. I put some sunglasses on and still managed to get some of that aluminum dust/ debris flying into my eyes. That stuff will irritate and itch you to hell. (not to mention, scratch your eyes if you attempt to rub). I wore my snowboard goggles... worked like a charm.

3.) I had to loosen up the strut bar a little to get the camber arms in. You'll see what I mean, so don't panic if you see no room for the bolts to come out with the strut bar blocking it.

4.) Use a torque wrench, breaker bar, something big as hell with some leverage. The bolts on the camber arms are too tight to loosen with just
an average-sized hand ratchet. You might get lucky though, mines were tight as hell. (I know common sense, but thought I'd throw it out there for someone who might be reading this)

Hope some of those little bits will be useful.

Good luck and tell us how it goes.

 

try this. that should work.

 

thanks for the advice zephyr. i will be sure to take all necessary precautions. i will let you know how it goes. like i said, i don't foresee any problems (but we'll see how that goes, eh?)!

ps-i still like your avatar who is that??

 

I'll be here!!

Chad

 

Alessandra Ambrosio

You probably recognize her on posters when you're "shopping" for your girl at Victoria Secret during the holidays.

 

If you go out to SD check out East county alignment in Santee or Clarence Browns off Convoy also they're both pretty good with dealing with lowered cars.

 

well, after reading up a little about these a-arms, it seems that the "rubber bushing" i was talking about above, isn't supposed to fit inside the cup as it is jus' a bootie covering the Heim joint. the castle nut/cotter pin thing, that's jus' what i'm used to seein', but i can't remember whether these cars have that stuff on the a-arm (i know hondas did).

i wonder what kinetix' "race" Heim joint is like. hmmmm......

 

well, finally got the camber arms/toe bolts yesterday. iap screwed up the shipping address (forgot the apt. number), but luckily was able to pick it up at ups. now for the installation: is the #225 flex-shaft assembly needed for this, or would the dremel itself fit in there? chad?

 

yum...

 

i tried last night and it was more work than i thought, im gonna try again tomorrow.

 

you definitely need the flex shaft. especially if you have the stock muffler in there, because it is so big.

 

what if you remove the muffler, will there be enough room?

 

i guess, but that seems like a pain in the butt. i would rather just spend the extra cash for the tool.

i could have done this for you for 50 bucks...oh well...




are you going to make it out to the tuesday meet next week? you are in SD now, right?

 

yeah, but then i wouldn't have bought that cool rotary thingy so i could like, cut and grind and polish stuff! besides, i like to do stuff myself, i get to learn by screwin' up, ha ha! but thanks though. and yeah, i'm in san dog now, finally all moved in, and starting work, yech! i'll try and make it out to the meet next tuesday, but i've got some "toys" comin' in that i may be installing

 

I wished I had the flex shaft thing, should have bought the kit with it instead of getting creative and wanting that rotary cutter thing.

It is still possible, but you have to come at an angle, it takes FOREVER. Just find the shaft at like Wal Mart in the "dremel section".

 

jus' ordered the flex shaft from sears.com. i'll be pickin' it up by UTC hopefully by tomorrow.

 

i just wantde to add some info i have though you SPC cambolt owners will probably disagree with me......i too have the full kinetix setup. my traction rods did adjust toe some but chaged the rear caster while doing so, this part i didnt like as you are screwing with the geometry pretty good. i was going to get the SPC cambolts for fine tuning the toe thus allowing more positive adjustment on camber w/o sacraficing toe. i was very familiar with the locations of all the adjustment points & everything under the car from installing my eibachs as well as all my kinetix items. realizing how the bolt hole needs elongated to fit the new larger cambolt i figured why not just elongate the bolt hole at the front of the rear lower arm where it attaches to the spindle? your gridning somthing regardless! if you elongated in toward the center of the car it could be pushed in & then tightened down, then the regular stock toe bolts could be adjusted while starting from a couple degrees toed out(wich you can get with the factory cambolts or the kinetix arms), then using the stock bolts to adjust for toe in from there. very easy to do, more room than working on the back holes where theres less room & works just as well using factory pieces. once the bolts are tightened the lower arm will not move, you can also add a large lockwasher if you want the added insurance. this trick worked flawlessly & allowed for me to save on buying the SPC cambolts. though i had already laid down some coin for the kinetix pieces, this just amde me feel better not having to throw any more down!!

-justin

 

that's some great innovation justin. so instead of elongating the holes where the actual toe bolts are, you're jus' elongating the holes where the arm joint connects to the rear control arm? i may be havin' a hard time picturin' this without some sort of a picture, but jus' explain a little more, and i should be able to get it.

my only concern is, that if this is the case, is the amount of forces acting on both bolts equal? meaning the force of torque on the bolts, since at different angles, could be different, leaving room for movement (during spirited driving, and unless torqued down to spec or beyond). this is jus' gettin' more complicated as we go along, isn't it?

 

I understand your concern & I too had some concern in the beginning. After talking to my alignment tech who has been a mechanic for 30years, he assured me that this would be totally safe & that some cars even have this type of adjustment from the factory.....just to picture better what I'm talking of on the hole elongation, its the bolt hole on the lower control arm that houses the spring. One end already has a cambolt from the factory, the other just has a regular bolt wich is where the arm connects to the spindle. This hole needs elongated approx 1/8" towards the inside of the car(center). Then you can push the the toe out by pushing the bolt into the elongated slot(towards the center of the car). Then the factory cambolt can be used to adjust the toe into spec.....worked perfectly for me & allowed me to set my camber more positive where as I was unable to before since my toe limited my camber! All I can say is I have done it with great success to date!

-justin

 

thanks for explainin' it better. i can see it clearly now. but i would still use a lock-washer, and some loctite, jus' to be sure