ati done, just tuning left, pictures...
hi G3po,
I built both gauges (2 tri colored bargraphs and 2 LM3914).
Both measure from 0 to 1.0v and go from green to yellow, to red.
The oem o2 reads from 0-1.0v. When you mash the pedal and
the car goes in to open loop, then the bargraph is actually very
good (constant 8-9 bars at 3/4 throttle, 9-10 bars at full throttle).
In close loop, the bargraph cycles from rich to lean.
I pull my boost signal from the FMU's pressure transducer so I see what boost the FMU sees. 1 psi = .1v. That way, I know
if the FMU loses power or something goes bad...
Although, I did this late at night so the bargraphs got flipped so
they go from right to left... oh well...
rob
I built both gauges (2 tri colored bargraphs and 2 LM3914).
Both measure from 0 to 1.0v and go from green to yellow, to red.
The oem o2 reads from 0-1.0v. When you mash the pedal and
the car goes in to open loop, then the bargraph is actually very
good (constant 8-9 bars at 3/4 throttle, 9-10 bars at full throttle).
In close loop, the bargraph cycles from rich to lean.
I pull my boost signal from the FMU's pressure transducer so I see what boost the FMU sees. 1 psi = .1v. That way, I know
if the FMU loses power or something goes bad...
Although, I did this late at night so the bargraphs got flipped so
they go from right to left... oh well...
rob
There's been a discussion of the belt routing over on 350zmotoring. Apparently, the ATI manual has you place the belt *over* the tensioner pulley, so that the ribbed side hits the pulley. However, everyone on that forum (including a head Nissan tech who did an ATI install) says that the belt should go *under* the pulley, so that the smooth side of the belt is against the pulley. That's much more standard, and will not cause as much wear on the teeth of the belt. Might be worth checking into. I've personally never heard of the teeth of a belt being pushed against a tensioner pulley.
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