I bought new light assemblies after Hurricane Milton (got a branch through the left side assembly)

After R&R the assemblies I went to adjust the beams. Using a No 2 Phillips and following directions as to which way to turn I was able to get the left beam to be correct.

But sadly I cannot get the right side to go UP...down is no problem. On the UP direction it just clicks....

At this point I have to remove the bumper et al, and slide the assembly forward to get a 6MM ratchet on the hex that actually turns the screw that brings the beam up or down.

If you have ANY other suggestions without resorting to removing the whole bumper again, I'm all ears.

 

The bottom one should raise and lower the beam. At least on my aftermarket one it was the lower one.
I think the top would be for angle, but I did not touch it.
Mine are a little different than yours though.

 

My experience with aftermarket 350z headlights is that NONE of them have good light except the oem replicas. I've tried 4 different aftermarket headlights over the past 10 years and none of them could give a usable correct beam with HID's

I have these and they are great. I had to adjust the beam up a lot from the factory setting, but they are great quality. I had use the aftermarket ballast o-ring instead of the one that came with the headlight to seal them to the housing.

https://shorturl.at/2w76n
I recommend getting actual Phillips D2R's and aftermarket oem type ballasts (about $150 for all ) I also did order a better connector for the ballast as the one that came with the headlights kept pushing the wires out and had to break apart part of the white shield inside the connector for it to work properly.

 

I just realized this is g35 not 350z

 

I indeed bought OEM Looking aftermarket ones. and moved my ballast over to the new assemblies....and I indeed bought real phillips D2Rs.

I've been playing around with the old assembly that wasn't broken by a branch.....the lower adjustment that is designed for the phillips head screw driver....actually moves the lower bulb...THAT IS THE HIGH BEAM....maybe if you move the lower, the upper moves......but on the old assembly there is a blocked off adjustment screw that is capped with a piece of plastic held on by screws....under that cap there is another hex head that moves the upper bulb, the low beam.....if I turn THAT hex, I can see the upper bulb move up and down.

it looks like the new assemblies have the same type of cap....I will try to remove the cap without removing the bumper and assembly.

 

I would assume it's this

 

THAT would seem like the logical area to mess with as THAT is where they give you the mechanism to adjust the height of the beam.

I tried the high beam last night and that too is low....ugh....so THAT adjustment must affect both in unison and if NEEDED the low beam could be adjusted as necessary.

Ugh that means I have to remove the bumper and disconnect the assembly - yuck :-)

 

UPDATE:

So I managed to get the thing highlighted in red off (Previous post).
and get a ratchet on to the hex head (it is 8MM not 6MM) and nothing is moving.

I managed to get the seller to send me a replacement passenger assembly and we'll see how that goes.

Here are some of the things I noticed comparing left and right assemblies
Both lights uncovered

Right light covered

left side - no gap

Left light covered

right side - large gap

 

You spin that bottle cap looking thing. You don't need a socket to do it

 

either way , it just spins the internal threaded rod, with no action to the piece that the bulb sits on....like I said I was able to move the left side correctly by spinning the bottle cap with the a #2 phillips.

when I replace the right side assembly. I'll see if I can see if the piece that accepts the threaded rod is stripped (I'm pretty sure it is) or if there is some manufacturing flaw preventing it from moving .

 

Update: I got the replacement right side assembly and tried the gizmo that is used to adjust the bulb's beam and it just clicked. Used a 8MM socket to adjust the beam off the car to be near what I had on the left side.
Put the assembly in the car and finalized the beam adjustment using the 8MM socket .

All good now.

I just have to hold on to the faulty assembly for 3 months in case I need another warranty repair.