Crawford Headers Pre and Post Dynos
Hey guys/girls.
I'm here to make an offer. There have been several threads lately asking for pre and post (independent) dynos of the Crawford Headers and their gains.
My performance mods include a 350z intake tube, a Crawford Plenum, RT h/f cats and a JIC Y-Pipe.
I am purchasing a set of Crawford headers and expect them to be arriving within 1-2 weeks. So, here's the offer...
I'm willing to do a pre and post dyno of my car using SAE Correction Factors if I can raise half the money. That's right, I'm internet panhandling!
I've had one other person willing to pay a few bucks to help out the cause and if there are more I'd p/u half of the tab myself.
Dyno tuning in CFL will run about $75 for 3 runs with A/F ratio plots. If I can raise the first $75, I'll spring for the other $75 and download the dynojet run viewer and post the graphs overlayed on top of each other. I'll do 3 pre header runs and 3 post header runs and I WILL NOT show the worst pre header run and the BEST post header run.
Simply PM me for my paypal addy and I'll send it to you. If you think this is weak, you're probably right. The way I see it, I've bought the headers and I'm going to install them REGARDLESS of the gains. I am somewhat interested to see what my current mods are doing for me, but not $150 interested.
If you are the generous type simply state how much you're willing to pony up below. Once we reach the $75 I'll send everyone a PM with my paypal addy.
I figure it's worth a shot... Waddayathink?
I'm here to make an offer. There have been several threads lately asking for pre and post (independent) dynos of the Crawford Headers and their gains.
My performance mods include a 350z intake tube, a Crawford Plenum, RT h/f cats and a JIC Y-Pipe.
I am purchasing a set of Crawford headers and expect them to be arriving within 1-2 weeks. So, here's the offer...
I'm willing to do a pre and post dyno of my car using SAE Correction Factors if I can raise half the money. That's right, I'm internet panhandling!
I've had one other person willing to pay a few bucks to help out the cause and if there are more I'd p/u half of the tab myself.
Dyno tuning in CFL will run about $75 for 3 runs with A/F ratio plots. If I can raise the first $75, I'll spring for the other $75 and download the dynojet run viewer and post the graphs overlayed on top of each other. I'll do 3 pre header runs and 3 post header runs and I WILL NOT show the worst pre header run and the BEST post header run.
Simply PM me for my paypal addy and I'll send it to you. If you think this is weak, you're probably right. The way I see it, I've bought the headers and I'm going to install them REGARDLESS of the gains. I am somewhat interested to see what my current mods are doing for me, but not $150 interested.
If you are the generous type simply state how much you're willing to pony up below. Once we reach the $75 I'll send everyone a PM with my paypal addy.
I figure it's worth a shot... Waddayathink?
Originally posted by FairladyZ
Are you getting it installed at the same place you are dynoing? If so they should do b4 and after dynos. Like one stock, and 2 after.
Are you getting it installed at the same place you are dynoing? If so they should do b4 and after dynos. Like one stock, and 2 after.
I'll also do my best to control factors like air pressure in the rear tires, same type of gas from the same gas station (I do this anyway), etc...
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Neff,
Just be certain you reset the ECU for the pre-mod run as well. If you want to rule out as much x-factors as possible, you'd actually reset the ECU just before either dyno sessions begin. Let idle for a few minutes then proceed with the dyno pulls. That'll insure the ECU is working off the same ignition timing map #1. If done properly, your fist pull will always be your highest.
Good Luck,
Just be certain you reset the ECU for the pre-mod run as well. If you want to rule out as much x-factors as possible, you'd actually reset the ECU just before either dyno sessions begin. Let idle for a few minutes then proceed with the dyno pulls. That'll insure the ECU is working off the same ignition timing map #1. If done properly, your fist pull will always be your highest.
Good Luck,
Just my opinion, it'd be better if it was done on a bone stock 350Z/G35C. Other mods are either going to help it or take away some gains. Only way imo, would be to do a bone stock 350Z/G35C base dyno (SAE and non-corrected), and install headers, then do another dyno (make sure all factors are the same, and SAE and non-corrected), and then put some miles on it, do another dyno (however much time it takes to get plenty of miles on it to let the ECU adjust), this would be the only way to get real numbers imo.
Originally posted by nis350ztt
Just my opinion, it'd be better if it was done on a bone stock 350Z/G35C. Other mods are either going to help it or take away some gains. Only way imo, would be to do a bone stock 350Z/G35C base dyno (SAE and non-corrected), and install headers, then do another dyno (make sure all factors are the same, and SAE and non-corrected), and then put some miles on it, do another dyno (however much time it takes to get plenty of miles on it to let the ECU adjust), this would be the only way to get real numbers imo.
Just my opinion, it'd be better if it was done on a bone stock 350Z/G35C. Other mods are either going to help it or take away some gains. Only way imo, would be to do a bone stock 350Z/G35C base dyno (SAE and non-corrected), and install headers, then do another dyno (make sure all factors are the same, and SAE and non-corrected), and then put some miles on it, do another dyno (however much time it takes to get plenty of miles on it to let the ECU adjust), this would be the only way to get real numbers imo.
As far as the ECU reset, I could easily do that if it really makes a difference.
Also, the install is being done on a G35 (with a 350z intake tube) so the results should be identical to the 350z. The install will be performed at a Florida G35 Club sponsors location, Lokey Infiniti, and they do not have a dyno there. BTW, there are not too many people that want to install headers while the back wheels are on a dyno drum... Most people would want the advantage of being able to have the car on a lift, I would think.
So to recap I've got a $5 donation to get things started off... (oh, BTW thanks for the offer!)
Anyone else care to see the results? TIA
I think is definatley a good chance to see what these "renowned" headers can do on a normal daily driven car, and it won't be from an affilate of the company.
I think giving this man 5 or 10 bucks to find out what its about is good rather than spending 1200 if you can get the same result from other headers. (not knocking Crawford in any way) Just curious to see if the headers are worth 1200 bucks
and i think the ecu reset before each run is a good idea
i say throw him 5 bucks instead of getting that Happy Meal for lunch
I think giving this man 5 or 10 bucks to find out what its about is good rather than spending 1200 if you can get the same result from other headers. (not knocking Crawford in any way) Just curious to see if the headers are worth 1200 bucks
and i think the ecu reset before each run is a good idea
i say throw him 5 bucks instead of getting that Happy Meal for lunch
if you can afford the headers then you can certainly afford the dyno...j/k. i do agree with a previous poster that the car should be stock in order to get a good indication of what these headers can produce alone...may not be a practical first mod but what is there to gain by your post dyno for those who do not have the same mods that you do...just my .02
Originally posted by Road Warrior
if you can afford the headers then you can certainly afford the dyno...j/k. i do agree with a previous poster that the car should be stock in order to get a good indication of what these headers can produce alone...may not be a practical first mod but what is there to gain by your post dyno for those who do not have the same mods that you do...just my .02
if you can afford the headers then you can certainly afford the dyno...j/k. i do agree with a previous poster that the car should be stock in order to get a good indication of what these headers can produce alone...may not be a practical first mod but what is there to gain by your post dyno for those who do not have the same mods that you do...just my .02
Heck, I'm already paying a pretty penny for the headers... it's not like I'm going to do a pre-header dyno, pay good money for the headers, pay to have them installed, pay to re-dyno them and say... "darn, I didn't get exactly what I thought I would and I could maybe gain 3rwhp more with brand 'x' headers, time to take off the Crawfords and sell them for a loss and repeat the same steps again..."
The more I think about it, I kind of hope you all don't pony up the money. This way I'll save $75 and 2 half days of my time and I can just pretend my butt dyno is properly calibrated and be just as happy.
well my intention was not to discourage you from your idea and i do think it would be beneficial for you to do at least a post dyno to see what kind of power your putting down and where improvements can be made for any future mods.
that makes .04 total now for my contribution
that makes .04 total now for my contribution
you should do dynos the same day, when you reset your ecu it will erase anything that you have done to let the ecu adjust for the headers anyways. If you do them on seperate days, it adds variables that will not make your dyno fair. EX weather and temp
Originally posted by hungster
you should do dynos the same day, when you reset your ecu it will erase anything that you have done to let the ecu adjust for the headers anyways. If you do them on seperate days, it adds variables that will not make your dyno fair. EX weather and temp
you should do dynos the same day, when you reset your ecu it will erase anything that you have done to let the ecu adjust for the headers anyways. If you do them on seperate days, it adds variables that will not make your dyno fair. EX weather and temp
Thanks for reading!


