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Kinetix SSV Manifold on N/A...am I the only one?

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Old 06-18-2005, 01:44 PM
  #41  
Machupo
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Ok, grey RTV is on -- it'll take 24 hours to cure...

also found that the drain hose on the intake tube was unattached -- think that could cause a problem?
Old 06-18-2005, 03:57 PM
  #42  
patdsaunders
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When putting on RTV for a gasket, I use a thin coat put on by finger and I did not let it set more than 5 min since there was no excess and the system is in vacuum. Instant seal.
Old 06-18-2005, 04:55 PM
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I wanna see some #'s on this Plenum, it either this or headers...... I need to see some dyno's!
Old 06-18-2005, 05:14 PM
  #44  
Machupo
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Originally Posted by patdsaunders
When putting on RTV for a gasket, I use a thin coat put on by finger and I did not let it set more than 5 min since there was no excess and the system is in vacuum. Instant seal.
sounds good -- only reason I was going with the 24 hours is that's what it says on the back of the tube -- i'll fire it up in the morning and see how it goes

thanks again,
-nick
Old 06-18-2005, 06:14 PM
  #45  
frostyrock7c
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24 hours with the RTV on and no more vacuum leak, runs great. I even ran it a little hard tonight to ensure a good seal before autocross tomorrow.
Old 06-19-2005, 11:13 AM
  #46  
Machupo
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ok, it appears that the throttle body seal is not my problem... sanded and RTV'd last night... on startup this morning, had a high-pitch whine (tiny vac leak), which after the first full out run went away... but the crappy idle returned (that first WOT run probably widened the gasket issue to the point of not making noise anymore )

so, came back, sanded for another hour (320, 600, 800 wetsand)... very very thin layer of RTV (like patdsaunders)... same issue

I think i'm going to take the entire manifold off again and sand down the manifold on the runner end and see if that helps...

i'll keep ya updated.
Old 06-19-2005, 02:13 PM
  #47  
littlegbuddy
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I noticed that the bottom plate on mine was not 100% flat. I just made sure that I tightened the center most mounts first and worked my way out to the ends. I did use gasket / sealer at the throttle body. Mine idles just fine and the performance increases are there 100%. I did not dyno but there is a significant amount more torque.
I even kept my a/c running to make sure that I would not have any increases there. And it was over 100 degrees here in Phoenix. The only thing that this IM should have come with is an engine damper. You can definitely feel the engine rocking around now.
Old 06-19-2005, 06:13 PM
  #48  
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yep -- the saga continues

snapped a bolt on the manifold torquing it down... going to drill/tap it tomorrow and take the manifold to the machine shop to sand both ends down, then lap it to shiny perfection

the torque on this thing just keeps getting better as I drive it around more... definite huge increase @ 3k-4k (area I drive around the most)

beside all the problems, I love it!!!
Old 06-21-2005, 11:43 AM
  #49  
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we are working on more finely machining the bottom, also remember to use those copper washers on the 6 flange bolts.

Give those flange bolts a good tightening , I use a crescent wrench off the top of the hex driver to get more torque.

Glad to hear the good impressions. The manifold really does pull hard through 3-4k rpm and then again above 6k.

That may seem, strange, but this is due to what we believe is not just a tuned manifold, but a more efficient manifold. You can adjust runner lengths and plenum volumes for a specific RPM, but we also think our manifold has less turbulence, which is why is shows gains throughout and not just high RPM.
Old 06-21-2005, 12:43 PM
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actordan
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Have any of you had the Kinetix V4 Plenum on and then switched it to the SSV? If so was it really worth the extra 500 bux to do it? The biggest benee I see is the looks, unless your going FI. BUt I am going to try to hit 350HP at the wheel NA. Going for a port and polish soon. SO just curious
Old 06-21-2005, 12:55 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by lsdunique
we are working on more finely machining the bottom, also remember to use those copper washers on the 6 flange bolts.

Give those flange bolts a good tightening , I use a crescent wrench off the top of the hex driver to get more torque.

Glad to hear the good impressions. The manifold really does pull hard through 3-4k rpm and then again above 6k.

That may seem, strange, but this is due to what we believe is not just a tuned manifold, but a more efficient manifold. You can adjust runner lengths and plenum volumes for a specific RPM, but we also think our manifold has less turbulence, which is why is shows gains throughout and not just high RPM.
all back from the machine shop now -- the manifold needed quite a bit of work to mill it flat (read: $160!) -- but looks perfectly smooth now -- will re-install tomorrow night after I get new manifold stud from performance nissan.

thanks for the tip on the allen bolt -- i was just using the T-wrench sent with the kit (have a socket set for allen-heads, but didn't want to use it on the driver's side since I couldn't use it on the pass side and that would unbalance the manifold).

i'll update soon,
-nick
Old 06-21-2005, 01:11 PM
  #52  
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not sure if you saw my other post in the other thread, but please email me at jamisonl@msn.com and let me see if there is some sort of accomodation I can make for your troubles.

I wish I could have sent a hex driver with larger "T" section but we required it to also have the "ball" socket end so that is the only one we could find currently.
Old 06-21-2005, 01:15 PM
  #53  
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All the trouble of finding the vacuum leak aside, this is a great product, you guys did a great job. Thanks
Old 06-21-2005, 01:19 PM
  #54  
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Just got done installing mine. Robert, any reports of having a hard time with the 3rd "inside" bolt? I could not turn the T hex driver once I got it in there between the runners.

I was also missing one bolt, but I used one off the OEM plenum. It was to hold the small bracket for that fuel do-hickey, so I went with a regular 10mm and it worked fine.

Other than that, I haven't started it yet.
Old 06-21-2005, 01:30 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by slaponte
Just got done installing mine. Robert, any reports of having a hard time with the 3rd "inside" bolt? I could not turn the T hex driver once I got it in there between the runners.

I was also missing one bolt, but I used one off the OEM plenum. It was to hold the small bracket for that fuel do-hickey, so I went with a regular 10mm and it worked fine.

Other than that, I haven't started it yet.
You're talking about the bolt on the passenger side closest to the firewall? I had some trouble with it as well, so I took the manifold off, and threaded it directly into the hole and used a 5mm allen-head socket & a ratchet... a couple times down and a couple times up fixed it just fine

oh, and lsdunique, you've got mail thanks
Old 06-23-2005, 11:34 AM
  #56  
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FIrst drive : sounds good, better than my V4 that I took off (IMHO). Feels good. Power feel more evenly distributed along the range. Could not open it up much, traffic was kind of dense this AM. Good power at 3 to 4K!

Idle is high (about 1200 with A/C, about 900 no A/C). Could be a leak.

Did I mention I got those thermal gaskets? That kit is very nice. So I took off the lower plenum, and the fuel rails and intake runners. The kit has two gaskets for under the runners, and one for under the IM. Perfect fit. I was well impressed. It wasn't too hard, I lifted the rails up and hanged them back while I did the runners.

Last edited by slaponte; 06-23-2005 at 11:37 AM.
Old 06-23-2005, 12:07 PM
  #57  
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i like mine its nice high power band... a relfash w/ it would rock
Old 06-23-2005, 12:17 PM
  #58  
Machupo
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Originally Posted by slaponte
FIrst drive : sounds good, better than my V4 that I took off (IMHO). Feels good. Power feel more evenly distributed along the range. Could not open it up much, traffic was kind of dense this AM. Good power at 3 to 4K!

Idle is high (about 1200 with A/C, about 900 no A/C). Could be a leak.

Did I mention I got those thermal gaskets? That kit is very nice. So I took off the lower plenum, and the fuel rails and intake runners. The kit has two gaskets for under the runners, and one for under the IM. Perfect fit. I was well impressed. It wasn't too hard, I lifted the rails up and hanged them back while I did the runners.
any issues with hitting the stock strut bar with the nextgear thermal gaskets?
Old 06-23-2005, 12:53 PM
  #59  
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Not at all, plenty of clearance. and they are thick ones. I was concerned when I saw them. But the two underneath fit at an angle so the lift is not the sum of the thickness, but less. And then the top one does light the IM staright up, but no, don't have a problem.

I was more concerned with the clearance on the back, from the vacumm connector to the firewall...

Originally Posted by Machupo
any issues with hitting the stock strut bar with the nextgear thermal gaskets?
Old 06-23-2005, 01:54 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by slaponte
I was more concerned with the clearance on the back, from the vacumm connector to the firewall...

+1!!!!


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