frostyrock7c

iTrader: (4)

hey everybody, just got my manifold in today and installed it at the shop after work with the help from a few friends...first the picture...


now for my 2 cents worth. Install was fairly straightforward and smooth, less the EVAP canister bolt that we broke off the bracket...oops . A ziptie is currently doing a fine job of that til I pick up a new one. I also installed a polished Z tube while I was in there and had planned on installing my NISMO grounding kit, but ran out of time and body fluid...it was very very hot and humid in Savannah today . After all was tighened and checked for leaks I cranked the car up and was amazed at how much louder the initial startup was, especially with my test pipes. Immediately after that I noticed that my car idled like crap, alot like those musclecars with the ridiculous cams, it won't shutoff though, I ran the A/C, lights, flashers, stereo, etc. and it just spits and sputters. My fix for this problem will be to have my idle bumped up a few hundred RPM and my timing slightly advanced while I'm at it. So I cleaned up my mess, anxious to get on the road. Under about 3000 RPM it wass a very subtle difference, it mostly seemed as if the engine was flow better and and pushed thorugh the powerband faster. Above 3K it was a completely different car, the exhaust note was much deeper, the engine reved much quicker, and the butt dyno went crazy. I thouroughly enjoyed myself on the highway, but whenever I returned to the "suburbs" I noticed a slight grind noise only to discover that the heat had caused my strut bar/manifold to both expand and barely rub each other, that is why the picture shows no bar, it is off the car until I return to work for shims. Overall I am very satisfied, not sure if I am $725 satisfied but nonetheless, a worthy mod. Next is the JWT clutch/flywheel.
Thanks for reading and if anyone else without F/I has one of these, share some info that I know I missed.

uplz4588

mine will be here on friday! i cant wait

frostyrock7c

iTrader: (4)

Are you N/A also?
If so, let me know how your car responds to it, this Z has less than 3K on the clock so I am still "getting to know it".

uplz4588

yep click my sig im NA still 8K on clock

ZU L8R

iTrader: (84)

I'm N/A as well. Sounds like you have a small air leak if your idle is sputtering a little, might wanna check that out. I agree, totally different after 3k.

Machupo

iTrader: (6)

ditto to what ZU L8R said, make sure you plug up all the sockets on the side of the manifold! (I almost left the cover off a vac hole when I installed my crawford cast plenum)

Mine will be here on friday as well. I'm going to go down prior to install and dyno the car (it'll take me the rest of the week to race around town to put the car on MAP #3), then I will install the manifold and have a dyno day set up on the 25th (i'll make sure the car is on map 3 again)... so we'll get some N/A comparison charts

once you get your shims, lmk what sizes you got -- i might just want to have some of these on hand.

thanks,
-nick

slaponte

iTrader: (2)

Mine arrived last friday, also N/A. I have JWT up front and Topspeed headers, Kinetix HF cats, Japtrix Y and Mid pipes and OEM muffler. I expect to installl today or tomorrow. Subscribing to thread, will post results.

DrVolkl

Make sure you guys get some dyno's. I'd like to see some real world #'s and see how it goes.

frostyrock7c

iTrader: (4)

No leaks found for me, I guess "spitting and sputtering" was not the best terms to use. It doesn't really spit or sputter, the idle is changed a good bit by the extra air flow and sounds remniscent of a big nasty V8 cam, now that I've gotten a few hours with it under my belt it has straightened out quite substantially and I kinda like it.
Any of you get that silly cover they are selling?

Machupo

iTrader: (6)

Good to hear it straightened out a bit... my modus operandi for adding breathing mods is:

Install Part
Let car idle for a couple minutes while I check things
Drive around the neighborhood, county, highways (closer to home, first )
This first bit of driving is nice and easy (I usually keep the car @ map3, so doing this bumps it back to map2 -- you can tell by your fuel economy)
Check it at home again (visual/manual checks)
If there are any problems that I can't fix by plugging something or connecting something, I'll leave the car in my garage (with the battery unplugged) overnight.
If I left it in the garage, i go back to the easy drive step.
If it was good to go after the check, I go out and seriously flog the car / take it to an autoX to bump the map back up

Then dyno



As for the "silly cover"...

350zWarz

hey machupo do you have a raised redline? i'm curious to see how the power goes past the stock redline because i have a reflash...and good luck with the install/dyno

Jun

iTrader: (45)

subscribing, because i want to get this mod.

Machupo

iTrader: (6)

nope, stock right now -- i'm not sure if i'm going to reflash until after i've got the new motor in (with cams and whatnot)

Conceyted

iTrader: (7)

maybe you shoudl try resetting your ecu. Maybe the extra air is being picked up by the ecu and is causing the car to stall out.

NourZ

iTrader: (1)

how do you switch to map 3? when you push the car for a while does it switch to map 3 for good? I'm confused, but I did feel my car running stronger after hitting 160 last week.

mario60185

what the hell do you mean map 1,2,3. who told you the ecu runs off 3 mapds?

frostyrock7c

iTrader: (4)

I need to reset the ecu, thanks Conceyted.

Have any of you noticed how much hotter the engine bay is, yikes. The original plenum has the cover and traps a lot of heat which is part of the reason this manifold is better but jeez. Maybe it's the 90+ heat in Savannah that makes it this bad, it just seems like the paint is gonna burn off soon...ok, I exagerate a bit.

hndumafia

iTrader: (10)

what Machupo is talking about is that the ecu has 3 maps for timing. when you do more aggressive driving the car goes to the most aggressive timing map, which would make the most hp.

patdsaunders

iTrader: (2)

I had a leak after install at the MAF-intake interface. I sanded the SSV and then used RTV (grey) for a good seal. No problems now. I think most will have a problem at this interface and should consider simply adding RTV.

I am normally asperated with Kinetix cats and Borla exhast.

I had the V4 and it ran well, especially cool on track. The new SSV is quieter, but makes much more power by the butt dyno. I do not like dyno's, but if you look at the N/A dyno, the torque is much higher across the RPM range than any other plenum/intake. I did not believe that dyno until I drove with the new SSV. Incredible. It may not be 14 ftlbs more across most of the band, but it is more power than any other mod I have done.

ZU L8R

iTrader: (84)

Get the nextgear thermal gaskets, they make a big difference. There's been a thread or two on them.