Can't wait until I install it. I will be doing pre/post dyno's on it and some before and afterf real world tests.

Unfortunately I still have to wait another 600 miles until I break her in until I can get it on the dyno. Attached are some pics of this mod which include the 5/16" spacer and the modified lower 287 plenum.

 

so uh.....what exactly IS the MREV mod? ok i see a 287 lower plenum, how is it modified?

also, is that the lower collector from the 287 as well?

 

The MREV mod is a 5/16" spacer + a 287 lower plenum. Yes it's a whole lower plenum from the 287 engine. It is modified by machining down runners 1 & 2. And I think maybe something else. I don't remember, maybe Tony can chime in.

 

this should be interesting on the newer engine..

 

You so lucky, too bad us 03 models can't use it.

 

You described it correctly. That's exactly what it is. A 287 lower collector modified for more flow clearance above runners 1&2 and a 5/16" Iso Thermal plenum spacer.

BTW will you still be doing the 40-100 MPH test? I'm really curious to see the difference in time it makes.

Tony

 

That looks sweet! Will it get in the way of the stock sway bar? Oh and how much?

 

Why not?

 

sweet

 

Because its only for 350Zs with the 300hp motors (05 track, 6MT 35th AE, 06 6MTs).

 

If you guys want to see some reviews on it. Do a search "MREV" over on G35driver.com.

Everybody who installed it really likes it (alot). More dynos are comming in too.

 

Yes I will be doing those tests also. Tony, what's the ease of install of this mod for a novice?

 

No the 5/16" does not get in the way. Check out the motordyne site for prices. I must compliment Tony on the package. A++ and everything came in the box so neat and clean that you could eat off the plenum. LOL

 

Its really not bad. It may feel a little intimidating taking off the air intake manifolds (the first time) but its not like you are diging into the engine. Its all predominantly just 10mm socket bolts that are easy to remove and reinstall.

1) Remove strut bar and air tube.
2) Remove upper collector.
3) Remove lower collector and stock gasket.
4) Install Aramid gasket.
5) Install the new lower collector.
6) Install the 5/16" spacer and CCV.
6) Reinstall the upper collector.
7) Reinstall the strut bar and air tube.

And you are done.

I can do it by myself in 45min. You can do it with the help of a friend in about 2 hours.

 

Why? Please explain...

 

The 287 motor puts out more HP / TQ in lower RPM's...

The 300 motor (REV-UP) Makes its power in the higher RPM's and beyond...

The Rev-UP Plenum is what does this...

The REV-UP motor makes its power up top, so, power is not as strong in the lower RPM's, but up High it fly's...

For the Daily Driver, they can not take full advantage of the REV-UP motor. Most daily drivers do not spend much time in the 5500-7000 RPM range where the REV-UP motor shines...

So putting the 287 HP motor plenum on it makes up for that difference.

The 287 HP Plenum stops making horse power above 6000 RPM, so a spacer is needed to make up for that difference or the car will feel dead above...

If you spend more time in the lower RPM's its a good mod

REV UP motors have been safley run with no modification to the internals up to 7800 RPM and made power till just below then, with a new cam even more HP will be made up to there... So, if you run up to 7800 RPM on the REV-UP motor you will have more constant peak HP at high RPM's which will be sweet on the track... Daily Driving / Free Way driving will not really see this power...

With the 287 plenum, shift points will have to be changed to lower RPM's to take advantage of the power...

 

You actually can use the modified lower collector on a 287 engine. It will provide more flow area and be 100% stealth.

Several different variations of modifications to the lower collector were tried on the dyno. Some were machined very deeply. Some were cut across all the runners. Some were cut only a little. It was found that the machining only runners 1&2 was optimum. And the depth of cut must be done just the amount for it to work. Too much or too little machining and the gains drop off. The convergence to the inlet must also be appropriatly radiused.

When used in conjunction with a 5/16" plenum spacer the difference is similar to what you would see in a comparison between the 5/16" and 1/2" spacer. About 1-1.5 HP at the top end. (when used without a spacer the gains will be around 5-7 HP)

But what I also recently found on the dyno (both the 287 and 300 HP engine) is that the 5/16" creates more area under the curve below 5K RPM. While the 1/2" spacer creates slightly more HP above 5K. I believe the difference in TQ is due to the difference in plenum volume. The difference in HP is due to the clearance above runners 1&2. So by combining the modified collector with a spacer, it gives you the best of both. Lower internal volume for improved TQ and more clearance above runners 1&2 for improved HP.

There are other factors involved that also affect both HP and TQ but it gets more complicated.

Tony

 

^^^^ +1 about the Modified Lower Plenum...

That will make the most out of your 287 Motor without changing the power curve...

 

so just for clarification, for us that have the 287 Motor, its better to mod the lower plenum as opposed to modifying the upper plenum for getting a spacer??

 

No. If it is only one or the other, Get the spacer as opposed to modifying the plenum. It makes more gains.

The modification is for 2 situations.
1) if you want the greatest possible stealth and don't even want a spacer visible.
2) You can use it to modestly enhance the highend of the HP curve. It will give gains similar to the 1/2" spacer on the high end without sacrificing TQ in the mid range.