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Tony@MotorDyne .. need your input - gaskets

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Old Jan 21, 2006 | 11:28 PM
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Default Tony@MotorDyne .. need your input - gaskets

In another thread .. Installing Motordyne spacer without torque wrench? - there was a lot of confusion regarding the placement of the stock gasket and the new ISO thermal gasket.

Apparently ... both gaskets are needed. We need better instructions.

Questions ...

1/ Here is your instruction manual. Can you show with better pictures where the stock gasket is .. and where the new ISO gasket is supposed to go ?

http://www.motordyneengineering.com/manual.pdf

2/ I don't know where the Nissan standard gasket is located (the non-MotorDyne gasket) .. can you show this to all of us ?

Last edited by fairladyZ in Japan; Jan 21, 2006 at 11:33 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 04:22 AM
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Originally Posted by fairladyZ in Japan
1/ Here is your instruction manual. Can you show with better pictures where the stock gasket is .. and where the new ISO gasket is supposed to go??
On page for it explains this.

Originally Posted by fairladyZ in Japan
2/ I don't know where the Nissan standard gasket is located (the non-MotorDyne gasket) .. can you show this to all of us ?
On page 5 it explains this.
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 05:28 AM
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Robert,
i dont know what instruction manual you are lookin at, butit does NOT mention those steps in the pages you mentioned.
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 05:49 AM
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On pg. 4
Originally Posted by MotorDyneengineering Manual
For Iso Thermal gasket installation... remove stock manifold gasket...
Also there are 3 pictures from the manual (The link that is provided) explaining this.
And on page 5 look at the big red arrow. Now if you are wondering about the second gasket that go on top of the sapcer you need to buy toit or go to your local car parts store and as for the gasket replacement sealant.
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 06:46 AM
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ok, i think you are interpreting it wrong. On page 4, the aramid gasket is the one that goes around the 6 holes. On page 5, the big red arrow is pointing to the gasket on top of the spacer. But you are suupose to put the stock gasket (the one that is in the shape of the spacer) onto the lower collector before putting the spacer on top. Then, you place the provided gasket ontop of the spacer then the upper plenum. But it doesnt relly state this in the manual.
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 06:53 AM
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To me its a common sense thing. Maybe I'm not understanding his question than.
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 06:28 PM
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The stock gasket that goes between the below the lower collector and manifold is removed, discarded and replaced by the new Iso Thermal gasket. The Iso thermal gasket is the long gasket with 6 holes in it.

The stock gasket in your plenum stays in place. You simply put the plenum spacer on top of it and then put the supplied gasket on top of the spacer. Bolt your upper plenum on and its finished.

Let me know if you have any questions. I'll also see if I can further clairify the instructions.

Tony
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Hydrazine
The stock gasket that goes between the below the lower collector and manifold is removed, discarded and replaced by the new Iso Thermal gasket. The Iso thermal gasket is the long gasket with 6 holes in it.

The stock gasket in your plenum stays in place. You simply put the plenum spacer on top of it and then put the supplied gasket on top of the spacer. Bolt your upper plenum on and its finished.

Let me know if you have any questions. I'll also see if I can further clairify the instructions.

Tony

Tony,

Is it advisable to re-oil the Iso Thermal gasket when the manifold is removed ?

Thx.
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by SCRoadster
Tony,

Is it advisable to re-oil the Iso Thermal gasket when the manifold is removed ?

Thx.
Its not necessary but you can if you want.
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert_K
To me its a common sense thing. Maybe I'm not understanding his question than.
+1

I definitely have 0 problems with Tony's instructions.. they were
crystal clear, but i indeed had some problems with removing the lower plenum. But well, I got them done anyways!
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by mc350z
that the stock gasket in the shape of the spacer stays in place under the spacer and the one that came with the kit goes on top so basically they sandwhich the spacer?
That's it!
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Old Feb 3, 2006 | 08:20 PM
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Maybe I am a little slow (most likely) ... or problems with the English language ..

1/ 8 strut bar spacers .. each one of the provided spacers goes into the 4 screws for the spacer bar (4 left and 4 right hand side) - right ?

2/ 10 piece strut bar washers .. where do these go ? On the instructions, it states .. "the 4 extra strut bar washers provided" .. I understand this. Where do the other 6 strut bar washers go ??

Thanks, Tony.
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Old Feb 3, 2006 | 09:04 PM
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1) Correct.

2) 6 of the washers are used with the 6 extra long strut bar bolts provided. The remaining 4 washers are used only if you need to raise the right side of the strut bar bracket a little more. It is very rare that they are needed though so you probably won't require them.

Tony
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Old Feb 3, 2006 | 09:36 PM
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Tony .. thanks, as always. One more question from me (like mc350z) ...

1/ The new bolts ( O ) with the washers go here, correct ? X is the stock one used .. but with the nut on top, correct ? There is no change to X before and after installation, correct ?

O X
O O

2/ The 6 new washers go topside .. directly underneath the head of the 6 new bolts -- as shown above in 1/ , correct ?

3/ Then .. the six O bolts are torqued 24 ft lbs and the two X nuts are torqued 20 ft lbs, correct ?

Thanks again.
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Old Feb 3, 2006 | 11:32 PM
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Tony,
This is Matt, the guy who called you three times on Friday. Thanks for all your help, I installed your copper isothermal plenum spacer sucessfully today. Reading this thread makes me want to ask a question though: Was the plenum spacer itself supposed to come with a seperate gasket for it? I didnt have a seperate gasket in the shape of the plenum spacer in the kit you sent me- My spacer had one shiny metal side and one side that looked like a gasket material on it, so I thought you guys glued the gasket on the spacer... I have no leaks and no check engine light on, plus the motor is running great...

Also the fat replacement bolts you sent for the strut bar are too wide to fit into the holes on my z. Those bolts were for the strut bar, correct? I had to reuse the stock strut bar bolts, and Im a bit leary about that because with the spacers under the strut bar I doubt they are in very deep.

Last edited by Rhoads; Feb 3, 2006 at 11:53 PM.
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Old Feb 4, 2006 | 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by mc350z
the 6 extra long strut bar bolts replace the ones on the brackets on each side correct? i was just looking and arnt there 4 bolts on each side. but im assuming that one bolt with the threading sticking through it isnt replaced?
That's it.

Originally Posted by mc350z
also there is some rubber padding on the inside of the hood i assume for the strut bar. does that need to be removed for a proper fit or does it not make any difference. i ask this because you know the hood adjusters down at the front of the hood?
No. In some cases it can, but rarely.

Originally Posted by mc350z
ive got them turned all the way up where there is almost no gap between the hood and the bumper. these dont need to be toggeled with in any way do they?
No.
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Old Feb 4, 2006 | 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by fairladyZ in Japan
Tony .. thanks, as always. One more question from me (like mc350z) ...

1/ The new bolts ( O ) with the washers go here, correct ? X is the stock one used .. but with the nut on top, correct ? There is no change to X before and after installation, correct ?

O X
O O
Exactly. But keep in mind the strut bar brackets are mirror images of eachother so the opposite side will be
X O
O O

Originally Posted by fairladyZ in Japan
2/ The 6 new washers go topside .. directly underneath the head of the 6 new bolts -- as shown above in 1/ , correct ?
Yes.

Originally Posted by fairladyZ in Japan
3/ Then .. the six O bolts are torqued 24 ft lbs and the two X nuts are torqued 20 ft lbs, correct ?

Thanks again.
Yes.
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Old Feb 4, 2006 | 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Rhoads
Tony,
This is Matt, the guy who called you three times on Friday. Thanks for all your help, I installed your copper isothermal plenum spacer sucessfully today. Reading this thread makes me want to ask a question though: Was the plenum spacer itself supposed to come with a seperate gasket for it? I didnt have a seperate gasket in the shape of the plenum spacer in the kit you sent me- My spacer had one shiny metal side and one side that looked like a gasket material on it, so I thought you guys glued the gasket on the spacer... I have no leaks and no check engine light on, plus the motor is running great...
Although we are not up to full production rate on the new line yet, we will soon have a full release of an improved Iso Thermal plenum spacer with a new plenum gasket material. Rather than modifying a stock gasket (which is made of metal) we will now include a thermally non conductive plenum gasket which will reduce upper plenum temperatures even further. The gasket you have is the new Iso Thermal Plenum gasket.

So now the Iso Thermal kit has three levels of thermal isolation built in.
1) The Aramid gasket that goes between the manifold and the lower plenum.
2) The new Iso Thermal plenum gasket that is applied directly to the plenum spacer.
3) The Copper throttle body heater which isolates your plenum from hot engine coolant flowing through it.

End result will be even lower plenum temperatures!

Originally Posted by Rhoads
Also the fat replacement bolts you sent for the strut bar are too wide to fit into the holes on my z. Those bolts were for the strut bar, correct? I had to reuse the stock strut bar bolts, and Im a bit leary about that because with the spacers under the strut bar I doubt they are in very deep.
I found that often times, the Australian, Canadian and 2002 American Z's use M8 strut bar bolts rather than the M10 bolts that are used on all other domestic Z's. If your Z was built in 2002, you have the M8 bolts. You can replace them with 6 30mm M8 bolts from the hardware store.
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