motordyne 5/16 spacer w/ ISO gasket review
03-25-2006, 03:28 PM
#1
motordyne 5/16 spacer w/ ISO gasket review
I ate a hardy lunch and started installing at around 12:30. I ended up finishing at 6:30. I was shocked it took me 6 hours O.o I decided not to install the valve body because, well, I can do it another time, I just wanted to test out the car before nightfall.
PROS:
Tone: The car sound so much more aggressive then it already did. Before, people heard me going, now they hear me coming
Speed increase: I followed the instruction and removed the negative of the battery, so when I went to start up the car, my clock was reset, so maybe the ECU was also reset so this could be the reason for what I felt after the install. I felt a quicker throttle response. I also felt some speed increase. Needle reaches redline faster now.
CONS:
Supplied materials: I was disappointed in motordyne when I realized the longer struts bolts that they provided was the wrong size. It couldn't thread into the holes because, well, it was too big. I had to use the orginal smaller struts bar bolts. (has anyone experienced this? I'm concerned that I should go out and by longer bolts)
Fitment: The driver's side of my hood is not sitting flush to the side fenders when I close the hood after the install. The passenger side of the hood looks good. (has anyone experienced this? I'm thinking of getting some shop to cut the struts spacer in half to get more clearance)
CONCLUSION:
I'm 50/50 on this review. I love the new car sound and the new throttle feel. but I'm concerned about having to use the orginal shorter struts bolts and the driver's side of my hood not sitting flush anymore after the install.
Motordyne, if you are reading this (or anyone else who has the answer) Can you comment on my concern? I followed the instructions to a tee)
Thanks for reading.
PROS:
Tone: The car sound so much more aggressive then it already did. Before, people heard me going, now they hear me coming
Speed increase: I followed the instruction and removed the negative of the battery, so when I went to start up the car, my clock was reset, so maybe the ECU was also reset so this could be the reason for what I felt after the install. I felt a quicker throttle response. I also felt some speed increase. Needle reaches redline faster now.
CONS:
Supplied materials: I was disappointed in motordyne when I realized the longer struts bolts that they provided was the wrong size. It couldn't thread into the holes because, well, it was too big. I had to use the orginal smaller struts bar bolts. (has anyone experienced this? I'm concerned that I should go out and by longer bolts)
Fitment: The driver's side of my hood is not sitting flush to the side fenders when I close the hood after the install. The passenger side of the hood looks good. (has anyone experienced this? I'm thinking of getting some shop to cut the struts spacer in half to get more clearance)
CONCLUSION:
I'm 50/50 on this review. I love the new car sound and the new throttle feel. but I'm concerned about having to use the orginal shorter struts bolts and the driver's side of my hood not sitting flush anymore after the install.
Motordyne, if you are reading this (or anyone else who has the answer) Can you comment on my concern? I followed the instructions to a tee)
Thanks for reading.
Last edited by ZlleH; 03-25-2006 at 03:52 PM.
03-25-2006, 03:37 PM
#2
As far as the new longer bolts that came with the kit, it took a few minutes to allign the hole with the spacer with brace. The bolt may seem larger in diameter, but it fits. Since you mentioned it. my hood doesn't sit "perfectly" flush, but it's barely, I mean barely noticeable. Overall, I'm very happy with it.
03-25-2006, 03:42 PM
#4
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I'm in the process of doin this right now. Took it apart cuz I was checking my sparkplugs and fig I need to install the ISO gasket. I already had the spacer and didnt have any bolt issues. I DID buy it used and received all of the previous parts from the 1st owner. Lol so no help there.
03-25-2006, 03:47 PM
#5
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the strut bolts for early model 2003 Z's are different. i had the same issue. but i went out and bought some M8 30mm bolts and they worked fine!
also my hood is a little raised up on the driver side aswell.
but with my new intake set up the throttle response is outstanding and the high end power is great.
also my hood is a little raised up on the driver side aswell.
but with my new intake set up the throttle response is outstanding and the high end power is great.
03-25-2006, 03:51 PM
#6
Thank you! I'm glad I'm not going crazy. My car is an early 2003.
Okay, at least now I know for sure that I need to go buy longer bolts instead of retrying those bolts that Motordyne supplied.
And I don't know what to do about the hood, it might seem like a little thing but it is really bugging me that it is not sitting flush on the driver's side.
Motordyne, maybe you should adress the smaller struts bar bolts with early 2003 cars.
mc350Z, thanks for responding, now I feel a lot better
Okay, at least now I know for sure that I need to go buy longer bolts instead of retrying those bolts that Motordyne supplied.
And I don't know what to do about the hood, it might seem like a little thing but it is really bugging me that it is not sitting flush on the driver's side.
Motordyne, maybe you should adress the smaller struts bar bolts with early 2003 cars.
mc350Z, thanks for responding, now I feel a lot better
Originally Posted by mc350z
the strut bolts for early model 2003 Z's are different. i had the same issue. but i went out and bought some M8 30mm bolts and they worked fine!
also my hood is a little raised up on the driver side aswell.
but with my new intake set up the throttle response is outstanding and the high end power is great.
also my hood is a little raised up on the driver side aswell.
but with my new intake set up the throttle response is outstanding and the high end power is great.
03-25-2006, 03:54 PM
#7
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I just installed my new Mrev today. All the hardware was fine. I too am not that happy with the way the hood closes. After installing everything and taking it for a drive I discovered that the strut bar was hitting the top of the manifold. I readjusted it to give more clearance but now my hood is up just a tad on the left. I also removed a little material from the manifold with a half round file to make more room. Man this is a tight fit! Over all I think the kit was very high quality and it was packaged very well. I haven't driven it enough to make a judgement yet as to if it's worth $500 in performance yet but I'm not complaining. Also installed a polished top plunem which looks way cool to me. It dressed up the engine bay a lot.
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03-25-2006, 04:01 PM
#8
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Originally Posted by ZlleH
Thank you! I'm glad I'm not going crazy. My car is an early 2003.
Okay, at least now I know for sure that I need to go buy longer bolts instead of retrying those bolts that Motordyne supplied.
And I don't know what to do about the hood, it might seem like a little thing but it is really bugging me that it is not sitting flush on the driver's side.
Motordyne, maybe you should adress the smaller struts bar bolts with early 2003 cars.
mc350Z, thanks for responding, now I feel a lot better
Okay, at least now I know for sure that I need to go buy longer bolts instead of retrying those bolts that Motordyne supplied.
And I don't know what to do about the hood, it might seem like a little thing but it is really bugging me that it is not sitting flush on the driver's side.
Motordyne, maybe you should adress the smaller struts bar bolts with early 2003 cars.
mc350Z, thanks for responding, now I feel a lot better
oh i just realized you were in canada. the canadian Z's also had the smaller bolts. i only had the problem because my Z was on of the first 1400 built in 2002!
and yes hyrdrazine(Tony) is aware of this issue
as for the hood issue. you can adjust the tension on the strut bar to make the hood fit. mine us raised up so slightly only i can really notice it
Last edited by **; 03-25-2006 at 04:11 PM.
03-25-2006, 04:15 PM
#9
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Nice, i have just the iso thermal plate w/ my kinetix plenum. I think it may be causing a light leak. I have to really check everything. Its a very nice design however.
Does teh spacer cause the car to kinda growl like an american car in the lower RPMs? The kinetix SSV does, i was wondering if its the same for all plenum mod upgrades
Does teh spacer cause the car to kinda growl like an american car in the lower RPMs? The kinetix SSV does, i was wondering if its the same for all plenum mod upgrades
03-25-2006, 04:25 PM
#10
I also suspected a Canadian difference as well.
And about adjusting the tension... adjusting it which way? loosen it or tighten it?
And about adjusting the tension... adjusting it which way? loosen it or tighten it?
Originally Posted by mc350z
oh i just realized you were in canada. the canadian Z's also had the smaller bolts. i only had the problem because my Z was on of the first 1400 built in 2002!
and yes hyrdrazine(Tony) is aware of this issue
as for the hood issue. you can adjust the tension on the strut bar to make the hood fit. mine us raised up so slightly only i can really notice it
and yes hyrdrazine(Tony) is aware of this issue
as for the hood issue. you can adjust the tension on the strut bar to make the hood fit. mine us raised up so slightly only i can really notice it
03-25-2006, 04:30 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by ZlleH
I also suspected a Canadian difference as well.
And about adjusting the tension... adjusting it which way? loosen it or tighten it?
And about adjusting the tension... adjusting it which way? loosen it or tighten it?
im not sure you just gotta find that sweet spot where it doesnt rub the plenum but lets the hood lay all the way down.
ive got so little clearence under the plenum you can just slide a piece of paper under it and i still have a little bit of the hood issue like i said.
so it might not come out perfect but im sure you can tweak it until you can live with it. it might just be due to variences from car to car.
i would say try tightening it first then if you hear it hitting the strut loosen it just a little.
also you can try adjusting those rubber prongs under the front of your hood. im not sure how much if any that would help but you can try, if anything it will just create more or less gap between your bumper and hood.
when i had my CAI it had some rub spots on it from where it was contacting the hood. i went back to a semi stock set up and it seems fine.
the MD plenum spacer IMO is the best bang for the buck product for the Z period.
Last edited by **; 03-25-2006 at 04:36 PM.
03-25-2006, 05:23 PM
#12
Hi ZlleH,
It is very rare, but some Z's were made with M8 bolts rather than the standard M10.
The Nissan engineering department may have increased bolt size for additional shear strength. They sure didn't make many Z's with M8's.
It seems more non US Z's were given the M8 bolts, but proportionally speaking they are still a very small fraction. Even the Canadian, Aussie, German and Japanese Z's are predominantly using M10.
It is very rare, but some Z's were made with M8 bolts rather than the standard M10.
The Nissan engineering department may have increased bolt size for additional shear strength. They sure didn't make many Z's with M8's.
It seems more non US Z's were given the M8 bolts, but proportionally speaking they are still a very small fraction. Even the Canadian, Aussie, German and Japanese Z's are predominantly using M10.
Last edited by Hydrazine; 03-25-2006 at 05:26 PM.
05-04-2006, 10:17 AM
#13
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Just installed my MD 5/16 Spacer this past week and have been relatively impressed with the sound and butt dyno. However, when it arrived last week it was missing the 6 internal bolt supports. I called and was promised them at my door within two days. It is now going on two weeks and they are still a no show. Anyway, I went ahead and finished the install without them and will just add them at some point later when I have the car apart or a slow Saturday afternoon.
As for the fitment, I as well have a bulge on the driver side. I could remove one of the additional washer spacers that I used on the install but then would not be able to fit the plastic engine cover back on. Oh well, I think i may just live with the bulge, it is not too horrible.
As for the fitment, I as well have a bulge on the driver side. I could remove one of the additional washer spacers that I used on the install but then would not be able to fit the plastic engine cover back on. Oh well, I think i may just live with the bulge, it is not too horrible.
05-04-2006, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by mchong75
WOW, 6 hours.
Would it take that long just to install the spacer and not the ISO gasket?
Would it take that long just to install the spacer and not the ISO gasket?
im not very mechanically inclined and i did mine in 45 minutes with the "supervision" of a nissan tech i was gonna pay him to do it but i ended up doing most of the work myself. i just used all their tools
my only other experience with doing stuff like this was installing and uninstalling my nismo CAI.
so i would think maybe 1 hour or less for the basic spacer and maybe have a buddy to help you
Last edited by **; 05-04-2006 at 11:37 AM.
05-04-2006, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by mc350z
im not very mechanically inclined and i did mine in 45 minutes with the "supervision" of a nissan tech i was gonna pay him to do it but i ended up doing most of the work myself. i just used all their tools
my only other experience with doing stuff like this was installing and uninstalling my nismo CAI.
so i would think maybe 1 hour or less for the basic spacer and maybe have a buddy to help you
my only other experience with doing stuff like this was installing and uninstalling my nismo CAI.
so i would think maybe 1 hour or less for the basic spacer and maybe have a buddy to help you
Can someone purty please post a pic of the bulge/bump on the hood?
05-04-2006, 11:56 AM
#17
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Originally Posted by mchong75
Awesome...now, that sounds more reasonable.
Can someone purty please post a pic of the bulge/bump on the hood?
Can someone purty please post a pic of the bulge/bump on the hood?
mine is so slight it might not show up on camera. you can only tell by looking at the gap between the fender and hood. ill try to get a picture up.
but not all z's have this problem and i would say 80-90% of the time its just a matter of tweaking the strut bar.
Last edited by **; 05-04-2006 at 12:15 PM.
05-16-2006, 01:40 PM
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can anyone comment on the difference between the basic 5/16 and the isothermal, is heatsoak a real and true problem i can have?...im sure everyone will say the extra thirty dollars is worth it for the iso thermal, but im just getting into this plenumspacer thing and i wanna make sure i do everything right.......
and if i wasnt to do this job myself, how much would someone charge me?
and could any engine specialist do it with not problems?
someone should do a DIY thread, unless there already is one?
and if i wasnt to do this job myself, how much would someone charge me?
and could any engine specialist do it with not problems?
someone should do a DIY thread, unless there already is one?
05-16-2006, 02:19 PM
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I purchased the 5/16 ISO Thermal Spacer and I honestly have not noticed any difference in how hot my engine bay and upper plenum are after driving (they are still damn hot!). The power increase and the sound change, however, are instantly obvious.
As for DIY, the instructions on the MD website are top-notch and walk you through every step. I am a complete novice when it comes to cars and engine but I was able to do it with minimal cursing in an afternoon.
As for DIY, the instructions on the MD website are top-notch and walk you through every step. I am a complete novice when it comes to cars and engine but I was able to do it with minimal cursing in an afternoon.