I was about to post the same thing.

I'm glad you already knew - I wouldn't want to have to break the news to you that this requires a LOT of tweaking.

It seems that you could run *very* lean if you're not careful. Your ECU sees less air than there actually is, so it cuts fuel a little bit and all of the sudden you're lean.

Good luck, I'm sure if you have the capability of tuning this it is a worthwhile mod.

 

yup. we had to add 25% more maf signal at idle. that was just to get it to idle perfect. i tried to add that across the board to see what happens but that didnt quite work everywhere...


me and alan (the king) were tweaking it trying to change the injectors sizing on the utec to compensate but not sure if it works in maf pulldown mode. i will play with it more today cause it was getting late last night.

 

So, how did your tuning go today?

Later
Aceman

 

nice job, but what the tube coming out of the front of the plenum? i just have a little nub there. and whats the filter in the back of the engine bay?

 

I guess the question that has to be asked is why do this? Unless you have some massive cams or significantly higher compression than stock, the stock MAF will not approach it's signal limit

 

im not talking about the signal limit. i am talking about the airflow through it. as we know on most cars, more air = more power if you can compensate for it. the stock maf sensor is 2.75 inches ID where the stock TB is 3 ID. just trying to get some more air in there and see what happens.


american cars have been doing this for years.

i have been outta town for the last night and yest. afternoon. i am back to the ole tuning board.

 

American cars have been doing it for a reason though......because they have cams and heads available to them that can pull the type of air in without reducing velocity.

The upper pipe is 2.75 inches for a reason. I suspect what you'll find, at least without doing a big set of cams and alot of head porting, is that while your intake volume goes up, intake velocity goes down. This is why porting the plenums and adding/subtracting materials there is such a hard thing to do, and why head porting is so difficult. All the same thing, just on opposite sides of the TB.

Interested to see what you find

 

if both of the dynos are from the same manufacturer then you should have extremly close results from one another.

 

this whole project has costs me right over a hundred dollars. its for fun. i really would like to just trip up and find some little loophole to grab some hp. i can in an hour put it right back to the way it was two days ago and drive around with my high 12 sec NA car and be very very happy....


we will see what happens. i am supposed to dyno the car friday but i am thinking that i need to put it back to the way i had it monday and get it dynoed first. then add some things and TUNE IT properly because its not as easy to do as i figured. especially with the limited amount of time i have



the car is off 35% at idle. we fixed that. then the car runs 9% off most of the rpm band. i pretty much sorted it out but now i dont know exactly what is keeping the car from running 100%. i still need to mess with it and fine tune it.

it pulls about 95% as good as before (on the accelerometer) and runs well.

i think i am going to take off the lower plenum today and just try only the maf housing. that way i can sort out what i think is cause the engine to do what


thanks guys. i will keep it updated.

the maf alone made the car pull harder. but the lower plenum wasnt tuned right before i put it in, so the car wasnt at 100% to start with

 

yeah i mean, the same day on the SAME dyno with equal IAT temps, coolant temps, etc

 

did you ever dyno the modified setup?