Tomei headers
Originally Posted by Nismo 350z
I doubt these will do better than the usual headers out there. No way these can outperform Crawfords or Nismo's. He just paid for the name. BTW its Crawford cats... not crowford.
they look nothing like DC Sports, yes they come with gaskets and header wrap (as all Tomei exhaust products do). They are also a completely different design from stock, as they incorporate long runners with a smooth merge vs a short runner with a merge in the middle of the manifold.
Pipe wise they use a 42.7mm primary and a 60mm collector flange
As for equal length vs non, there are plusses and minusses to each design - all depends on the cam you intend to mate it with and the power band you want
Pipe wise they use a 42.7mm primary and a 60mm collector flange
As for equal length vs non, there are plusses and minusses to each design - all depends on the cam you intend to mate it with and the power band you want
Originally Posted by JDMZ-33
IMO compare to any other JDM headers. eg: Fujitsubo, Nismo. Tomei its cheaper. btw, this headers will only fit RHD cars. Thx for correcting the speeling
actually the Tomei fits the LHD cars too. I know because we know the factory that actually makes these headers for Tomei, and a customer of ours has them on his car
Fujitsubo headers are not NISMO's - Fujitsubo will not fit a LHD car, NISMO will
Fujitsubo headers are not NISMO's - Fujitsubo will not fit a LHD car, NISMO will
Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
actually the Tomei fits the LHD cars too. I know because we know the factory that actually makes these headers for Tomei, and a customer of ours has them on his car
Fujitsubo headers are not NISMO's - Fujitsubo will not fit a LHD car, NISMO will
Fujitsubo headers are not NISMO's - Fujitsubo will not fit a LHD car, NISMO will
I know this is an old thread, but didn't really want to start a new one (as everybody hates that). I have an 06 MT and want to get these headers primarily for sound. Reading this topic, among others, there are replies that torque will increase if not top end horsepower.
My breathing mods are:
K&N drop-in air filter
ARC suction pipe
5/16 spacer
MREV 2
Nismo Y-pipe
Amuse R1 Titan Extra
Right after installation, can I expect a change in sound? As for power, I will probably reflash the ECU afterward... as I have heard people running lean. Don't really want to get cams. Any advice is appreciated.
My breathing mods are:
K&N drop-in air filter
ARC suction pipe
5/16 spacer
MREV 2
Nismo Y-pipe
Amuse R1 Titan Extra
Right after installation, can I expect a change in sound? As for power, I will probably reflash the ECU afterward... as I have heard people running lean. Don't really want to get cams. Any advice is appreciated.
Just remember to wrap or coat your headers. Tomei is a quality brand. Since they PROVIDE header wrap to go with their headers, that proves header wrap is a good thing. <cough, cough - Jonny>
Last edited by gothchick; Dec 11, 2007 at 06:38 AM.
Originally Posted by gothchick
Just remember to wrap or coat your headers. Tomei is a quality brand. Since they PROVIDE header wrap to go with their headers, that proves header wrap is a good thing. <cough, cough - Jonny>
Just because Tomei provides heat wrap with their headers does not automatically mean that all heat wrap is "good" for all headers. Tomei may make quality products (and let me just say that their headers don't exactly seem to be top notch quality for the price, especially considering they are not equal length, no one truly seems to know whether they fit both lhd and rhd drive cars), but that does not mean that they are gods and that thermodynamics does not apply to theirs or yours or David's or anyonelse's headers that are heat wrapped.
Please explain away these facts oh wise one:
1. With the exception of Tomei, almost EVERY other Headers manufacturer will VOID their warranty if you heat wrap their headers. uh, oh, under your logic, that would mean that heat wrap on headers is not a "good" thing.
2. With the exception of price, quality coatings will always outperform heat wrap, especially if the coating is inside and out, it will also minimize the risk of fatigue of the metal.
How many times do I have to say this, head wrap does such a good job at scavenging heat that it makes it nearly impossible for the heat to escape the headers, thus promoting fatigue on the metal. Have you seen how hot headers can get during tuning sessions (glowing red hot)--now you have heat wrap over those red hot headers. How is the heat to escape? It can't Do you really thing all that heat that remains with the headers, unable to breath is really a good thing for the metal on the headers (use a so so brand like DC, and I wonder how strong their ss is? How many impurities it may contain? How prone it may be towards cracking/furthering fatigue of the metal?) Now wrap those headers in head wrap that prevents the heat from dissapating and guess what---further chance of fatiguing the metal.
Now, let's agree to disagree before you start calling me immature names and telling me to stfu if I don't post a time slip
Last edited by jonnylaw; Dec 11, 2007 at 08:20 AM.
i have talked to a coworker who has also suggested that heat wrap was just a temporary solution to keeping the engine bay cool; they have hoods nowadays to do that. I have to agree with the fatigue thing, and my coworker also said that there is chance moisture can collect during cool periods too, which will lead to rusting
jonny and gothchick seriously any more of this BS and I'll just give both of you a time off. I really don't want to because in honesty both of you are trying to help. but, this is the 3rd time that not just one but both of you are getting into it.
both of you sound "so sure", but you are basing your info off of very minor personal experiences as well as some biased info on the internet.
time will tell, I'm sure gothchick will be the first to admit if her headers fail.
jonny, I do have at least some background in materials science as I'm a chemical engineering PhD student, and mat sci was a related field especially in my undergrad. half of the BS you posted has NO BASIS in mat sci, AT ALL. it is pseudoscience based on marketing claims. similarly gothchick's "proof" that header wrap is good is no more proof than yet another marketing claim.
I'll say this again... the undisputable advantages that ceramic coatings have over wrap are the following:
1. very uniform and even coating (ceramic) versus non-uniform insulation (wrap)
2. corrosion resistance by excluding oxygen and water (ceramic) versus no particular corrosion resistance (wrap)
3. higher cost (ceramic) versus lower cost (wrap)
now whether or not the material actually fatigues and fails is a MATERIALS SCIENCE question, that is only answerable conclusively by thorough testing of the particular material and design in question.
both of you sound "so sure", but you are basing your info off of very minor personal experiences as well as some biased info on the internet.
time will tell, I'm sure gothchick will be the first to admit if her headers fail.
jonny, I do have at least some background in materials science as I'm a chemical engineering PhD student, and mat sci was a related field especially in my undergrad. half of the BS you posted has NO BASIS in mat sci, AT ALL. it is pseudoscience based on marketing claims. similarly gothchick's "proof" that header wrap is good is no more proof than yet another marketing claim.
I'll say this again... the undisputable advantages that ceramic coatings have over wrap are the following:
1. very uniform and even coating (ceramic) versus non-uniform insulation (wrap)
2. corrosion resistance by excluding oxygen and water (ceramic) versus no particular corrosion resistance (wrap)
3. higher cost (ceramic) versus lower cost (wrap)
now whether or not the material actually fatigues and fails is a MATERIALS SCIENCE question, that is only answerable conclusively by thorough testing of the particular material and design in question.
Last edited by Wired 24/7; Dec 11, 2007 at 12:23 PM.
I don't see why all the arguing...you guys are both saying the same things without realizing it 
With all due respect, header wrap and coating do exactly the same thing...they keep heat in the pipe. This promotes faster scavengine of the gases coming from the head (to a degree - I think it's splitting hairs on most of our typical type of setups, forced induction aside), and also keeps the engine bay (rubber hoses, wiring harnesses, etc) by keeping heat in the pipe vs escaping. Both wrapping and coating do exactly the same thing....exactly the same thing. Both are insulators, plain and simple - different paths to the same destination. Their SOLE purpose is to keep heat in the pipe, period. Which does it "better" - who knows, anyones guess without doing lots of testing/logging, and there are many different types of coating, just as there are many different grades of header wrap.
As for the moisture thing, it really wont promote rusting with any sort of regularity, due to the simple fact that headers get so hot, any and everything evaporates them. However, as header wrap gets wet and then allowed to dry, it does get somewhat ratty looking and will need to be redone periodically. How often? Again, who knows - depends who wrapped it, and what it was wrapped with, and how often its subjected to getting very wet. The primary advantage wrapping has vs coating is cost and downtime. A pair of headers for a Z can be wrapped in about an hour and a half or so. Coating takes longer as you factor in shipping times (to and from) and time to coat as well (assuming you cant do it locally).
Every stainless header on the market I know of is SUS304 - not the top of the line stuff by any means, but it should never, ever ever crack.....never, on this car at least,a s the headers are so short and have such a beefy flange design that unless they are improperly welded, should never fail. I've never seen any name brand header on a Z crack yet. This goes from the most expensive JDM branded header down to the DC Sports.
Hope that helps clear it up.

With all due respect, header wrap and coating do exactly the same thing...they keep heat in the pipe. This promotes faster scavengine of the gases coming from the head (to a degree - I think it's splitting hairs on most of our typical type of setups, forced induction aside), and also keeps the engine bay (rubber hoses, wiring harnesses, etc) by keeping heat in the pipe vs escaping. Both wrapping and coating do exactly the same thing....exactly the same thing. Both are insulators, plain and simple - different paths to the same destination. Their SOLE purpose is to keep heat in the pipe, period. Which does it "better" - who knows, anyones guess without doing lots of testing/logging, and there are many different types of coating, just as there are many different grades of header wrap.
As for the moisture thing, it really wont promote rusting with any sort of regularity, due to the simple fact that headers get so hot, any and everything evaporates them. However, as header wrap gets wet and then allowed to dry, it does get somewhat ratty looking and will need to be redone periodically. How often? Again, who knows - depends who wrapped it, and what it was wrapped with, and how often its subjected to getting very wet. The primary advantage wrapping has vs coating is cost and downtime. A pair of headers for a Z can be wrapped in about an hour and a half or so. Coating takes longer as you factor in shipping times (to and from) and time to coat as well (assuming you cant do it locally).
Every stainless header on the market I know of is SUS304 - not the top of the line stuff by any means, but it should never, ever ever crack.....never, on this car at least,a s the headers are so short and have such a beefy flange design that unless they are improperly welded, should never fail. I've never seen any name brand header on a Z crack yet. This goes from the most expensive JDM branded header down to the DC Sports.
Hope that helps clear it up.
Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
I don't see why all the arguing...you guys are both saying the same things without realizing it 
With all due respect, header wrap and coating do exactly the same thing...they keep heat in the pipe. This promotes faster scavengine of the gases coming from the head (to a degree - I think it's splitting hairs on most of our typical type of setups, forced induction aside), and also keeps the engine bay (rubber hoses, wiring harnesses, etc) by keeping heat in the pipe vs escaping. Both wrapping and coating do exactly the same thing....exactly the same thing. Both are insulators, plain and simple - different paths to the same destination. Their SOLE purpose is to keep heat in the pipe, period. Which does it "better" - who knows, anyones guess without doing lots of testing/logging, and there are many different types of coating, just as there are many different grades of header wrap.
As for the moisture thing, it really wont promote rusting with any sort of regularity, due to the simple fact that headers get so hot, any and everything evaporates them. However, as header wrap gets wet and then allowed to dry, it does get somewhat ratty looking and will need to be redone periodically. How often? Again, who knows - depends who wrapped it, and what it was wrapped with, and how often its subjected to getting very wet. The primary advantage wrapping has vs coating is cost and downtime. A pair of headers for a Z can be wrapped in about an hour and a half or so. Coating takes longer as you factor in shipping times (to and from) and time to coat as well (assuming you cant do it locally).
Every stainless header on the market I know of is SUS304 - not the top of the line stuff by any means, but it should never, ever ever crack.....never, on this car at least,a s the headers are so short and have such a beefy flange design that unless they are improperly welded, should never fail. I've never seen any name brand header on a Z crack yet. This goes from the most expensive JDM branded header down to the DC Sports.
Hope that helps clear it up.

With all due respect, header wrap and coating do exactly the same thing...they keep heat in the pipe. This promotes faster scavengine of the gases coming from the head (to a degree - I think it's splitting hairs on most of our typical type of setups, forced induction aside), and also keeps the engine bay (rubber hoses, wiring harnesses, etc) by keeping heat in the pipe vs escaping. Both wrapping and coating do exactly the same thing....exactly the same thing. Both are insulators, plain and simple - different paths to the same destination. Their SOLE purpose is to keep heat in the pipe, period. Which does it "better" - who knows, anyones guess without doing lots of testing/logging, and there are many different types of coating, just as there are many different grades of header wrap.
As for the moisture thing, it really wont promote rusting with any sort of regularity, due to the simple fact that headers get so hot, any and everything evaporates them. However, as header wrap gets wet and then allowed to dry, it does get somewhat ratty looking and will need to be redone periodically. How often? Again, who knows - depends who wrapped it, and what it was wrapped with, and how often its subjected to getting very wet. The primary advantage wrapping has vs coating is cost and downtime. A pair of headers for a Z can be wrapped in about an hour and a half or so. Coating takes longer as you factor in shipping times (to and from) and time to coat as well (assuming you cant do it locally).
Every stainless header on the market I know of is SUS304 - not the top of the line stuff by any means, but it should never, ever ever crack.....never, on this car at least,a s the headers are so short and have such a beefy flange design that unless they are improperly welded, should never fail. I've never seen any name brand header on a Z crack yet. This goes from the most expensive JDM branded header down to the DC Sports.
Hope that helps clear it up.
From a materials science point of view, doing a poor job wrapping the headers may create hot spots. Hot spots that undergo many heat cycles are more prone to failure than a uniformly coated header devoid of hot spots.
True, the ceramic basically accomplishes the same thing, because it also insulates and traps in heat. However it will be very uniform because there is no real human error as there is with a wrap.
Like I said, whether or not this actually makes a difference, whether the headers will fail or not, is another experiment ENTIRELY. I'm just providing unbiased legit background where I can.
I do understand what you mean about potential hot spots. I'd assume (maybe incorrectly), that anyone wrapping headers knows how to follow directions, or is having an experienced person wrapping them for them, just as one would only have someone experience with coatings perform it on their headers
In the case of Tomei they include the wrap because they want you to use it...its sort of a stample with their manifolds, and they don't void a warranty on the wrapped units at all. Other companies (on other cars, not Z headers) only cover cracks if you use their insulating materials...so its all subjective based on the manufacturer
Makes a difference from a performance standpoint? On an NA car...I think its negliable. But, it will over the coarse of the the long term, keep the various things in the engine bay from degrading (IMHO)
In the case of Tomei they include the wrap because they want you to use it...its sort of a stample with their manifolds, and they don't void a warranty on the wrapped units at all. Other companies (on other cars, not Z headers) only cover cracks if you use their insulating materials...so its all subjective based on the manufacturer
Makes a difference from a performance standpoint? On an NA car...I think its negliable. But, it will over the coarse of the the long term, keep the various things in the engine bay from degrading (IMHO)
...
so, if i buy the headers and get them installed, will I be running dangerously lean or lose any power? I listed my breathing mods up there...
I will reflash the car but I don't think I want cams.
so, if i buy the headers and get them installed, will I be running dangerously lean or lose any power? I listed my breathing mods up there...
I will reflash the car but I don't think I want cams.
Last edited by terrorist22; Dec 11, 2007 at 02:23 PM.
Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
I would absolutely get the car tuned afterwards
+1
if you get a reflash ideally you'd want to check it out on the dyno afterwards, make sure the air/fuel is where it should be and make sure your power is not crap.





