Unfortunately, I'm going to have to wait until next week to do that....

Are the AFRs going to be the same just straight out of the computer? I guess I thought it would have to be under load or would be different under WOT conditions.

 

The computer doesn't always throw a CEL even if it sees a problem. It depends on the severity and duration of the problem.

If you car was running that lean it would register on the ECU in some way even if there is no CEL.

 

Definately some nice numbers, especially considering your mods. I have similar mods and on that EXACT dyno (same location, same dyno, same operator) I put down 246 hp. I logged my runs using Cipher and I noticed that my dyno A/F readings were much leaner than the Cipher's readings. Cipher was between 12.5 and 11.5 throughout the dyno, whereas this graph is just below 14..... anyway, here's my plot.



Matt, did you get a copy of the raw Winpep data? I'd like to overlay it on my graph...or we could just go back to Vang's and dyno again. I need to go back since I have my upgraded reflash from Uprev.

 

Thanks

That's really promising to hear. I would love for the numbers to be erroneous. Unfortunately, I didn't get the Winpep data. I was going to ask for all kinds of stuff, but when he told me about the A/F ratio, I lost all concentration and forgot just about all of it.

We could just go back to Vang's...

I got your message on OKZCC. I'll have to wait a day or two to respond... once my head stops spinning. I got really sick this weekend and spent the better part of Saturday in an emergency room with an IV stuck in my arm. It'll take me a day or two to really recover, I think, but I'll message you back when I do, for sure.

 

wow i guess im stupid i didnt even realize you were in tulsa lol. Good to see some more Okies around .

Sorry to hear you got so sick man hope all is better.

 

Yes, and you should have gone to Hallett last August!

 

Also, here's mine overlayed with a guy I work with. His is a bone stock G.

 

i guess i didnt hear anything about it . Ive seen pics of the track was it bad ***? Ive never gotten to do an actual roadcourse.

 

I don't have the Winpep data, and thus the tools to do an official overlay. However, I used Photoshop to adjust my lines to the scale and make them as accurate as I could.

My lines are the ... pudgier ones. We'll have to get the actual data for a legitimate comparison (especially after your new tune).

 

Dont ever go through life without driving on the road course at least once.

Its the best rush ever.

 

^^ so ive heard hopefully they will do another race or meet this year and i wont miss it.

 

Listen to everything this man says. Hallett was very fun. We're going back near the end of spring/early summer.

 

To the OP, as pointed out, you have a leak in your exhaust somewhere. If you were really running 16:1 AFR, you'd never make those numbers. Power production peaks around 12:1 - 13:1 AFR and then starts dropping off as you go up. Your EGTs, however, will climb until you reach stoich AFR, 14.7:1 after which they will also start gradually dropping. It's actually fairly safe to run 16:1 AFR. It will not run very well but your temps will not be as high as when you're around stoich ratio. Another problem is that to get to 16:1 ratio, you usually roll through the danger zone first which is obviously very bad. So, I'm not saying to tune your car to 16:1, I'm saying that I'd be more worried if my AFR was in 14s rather than 16s.

Given your numbers, you have an air leak that's getting into your exhaust. Every time I have a leak, I buy new gaskets and replace them. That's where usually the trouble is. It is very difficult to assess leaks by just looking at the pipes. I also found that it helps sometimes to start up the car in the AM and look at the joints to see if one of them drips with water after the car runs for a few mins. Condensation collects on the inside and often times, will work itself out at the spot where you have a leak. Good luck.

 

+1 to Ziggyrama

Look for black stains at potential leak points. Particularly at the crushed slip fits.
The water that comes out of the exhaust leak on cold startup has carbon soot suspended in it. The water comes out black and causes the staining on your pipes.

The staining is a good indicator of leaks because its so easy to see.

 

Yeah, it wouldn't surprise me in the least. I'm going to see if I can't get with Twin001 and maybe go to the dyno again to check that out along with the Cipher AFR readings. What I would give to just have a lift readily available right here....

Thanks for the help so far, guys.

 

no kidding man jack stands suck specially if you have a small garage.

 

Keep us posted on what fixes your car. Im wanting to order the MREV2 and 5/16th iso thermal this week maybe, however now im seeing MREV3!? Maybe I should wait....? Also can someone direct me or school me on the reflash?

 

I am actually planning on going back to the dyno again shortly...I just don't know if I want to use Vang's again. I know Humble has one and I think Toy Speed has one. I'll check into them and let you know. What days/times work best for you? I can go just about anytime, fortunately my work is very flexible with hours Last time we went to Vang's we did it around 9am.

 

Phinmac,
The reflash is a reprogramming of your stock ECU's fuel and timing maps. The VQ engine tends to run a little lean at certain RPM's and it only gets leaner when you start adding plenums, spacers, test pipes....and so on. The reflash that I have, Osiris, reprograms the ECU to account for the new mods. It also does other user-defined things like raise rev-limiter, open throttle plate more, and so on. Check out Uprev, Technosquare, AAM, and even Fast Intentions is getting into the market.

 

How shortly? If by really shortly, the soonest I could go would be Friday afternoonish. Otherwise anytime next week or later around 4 or 5. I think I'm with you on maybe not going to Vang's. Definitely must be nice to have hours that flexible

I'm thinking of placing an order for the Osiris... like tomorrow. Should I wait until after a new dyno to do that? I'm new to the whole ECU-tune scene. Whaddya think?