Tune it on the dyno!

 

Tony,
trust us, we would love to be able to dyno tune! It's just that we're resource-limited here in Tulsa. The shops around here only specialize in big blocks or Hondas. I wouldn't trust anyone here to tune my VQ. I do plan on dyno tuning once I go FI though. I'm going to go to Austin and have Uprev tune for me. That's what makes the Osiris so convenient for us, we log our runs and send it to Uprev. It's not the best way to do it but it does do a good job.

I can't go this week. I was thinking next week or the following. I'll try to call around to see how late the shops stay open. How are Saturday's for you? I want to see what kind of gains my XYZ pipe and exhaust have made over stock.

Trust me, the flex schedule is very nice, especially since I have two kids. When my youngest (soon to be 4) was a few months old he was in the hospital for a long time and I was able to work weekends/late hours to make up my time. My bosses/work are great.

 

Thanks Will do reasearch..I guess this is a necessary add on? Because im ready to order my mrev2 and 5/16th spacer.. ( of course there is the question of the mrev3) TODAY. but I guess I better study a little more first.. Thanks guys..cause I want it done right!

 

You don't NEED a reflash after you install your MREV/spacer, but it will help. Just reset your ECU by disconnecting your battery and it will be fine. IIRC, Tony provides the instructions on how to do this with his products.

 

YOU SEE thats why I love this site.. Answers when you need them ZFAST! THANKS A LOT!

 

MREV2 and 5/16th spacer installed... the car is very responsive and quicker from about 3000 rpm .. pulls hard! Yeah

 

I'm also getting a used MREV2 and 5/16" spacer. Love your results, kinda scared about the numbers thought...

Do you think you lost a bit HP/Trq in the lower RPM's?

 

If I did, it was worth the sacrifice. I didn't notice, either way. When all that torque kicks in, you don't care much about what you may or may not have lost between 2000 and 2750 rpm.

 

In other news, I got my Osiris yesterday afternoon. I had to face two separate issues as a result.

1.) I discovered the Windows Vista 64 does, in fact, suck heinous *********. Apparently, with its driver recognition setup, it won't allow you to install the required drivers to recognize the cables. Fortunately, the guys at Uprev helped me out. You have to restart your computer in "Test Mode" - no, not "Safe Mode"... "Test Mode". That solved the problem, and I was able to install the new maps and look at some of the data - in particular, the air/fuel ratios.

The AFR, under load, was much, MUCH more reasonable... though I need to put on the stock map and do a comparison. Either way, the AFR (at WOT) dips as low as 11.0 and goes as high as maybe 14, now. Much, much better.

2.) I also discovered that I had forgotten how fast/hard my car pulls. You see, I had been babying it ever since I got worried about the AFR. Subsequently, it's hard to really say how much more powerful the car is. I think the smoothing out of the TQ and HP curves really makes the performance more deceptive. It seems a lot easier to go very fast - especially in the higher RPMs, where it screams like a mad banshee.

Again, a test between the stock map and new maps might give me some comparative experience and allow me to make a more quantitative analysis of the improvement. It leaves me wondering how much better it really is, and how much more can be uncorked through my first eTune. I am left curious but satisfied.

I'll need to hop out and do a few comparison runs tonight - maybe a 3rd gear pull from 3K rpm with Stock and Performance configurations?

edit: Make that a couple of 2nd gear pulls... It might be in my best interest to NOT go 30mph over the speed limit.

 

i guess that's true, but given that majority of our (maybe my) daily driving will be in 2-4k rpm, i like to still have the nice pull (or at least not loose it)

i did the same thing on my old g35 (spacer only) and thought i lost some bottom end troque, but your graph also kinda shows it

 

Yeah, it may be just me, but I don't mind losing a little for 750rpm that low as long as it makes up for it. Hopefully, I will have fixed even that with my new Osiris Tune.

 

what's osiris tune? do you have to do it after mrev 2 / spacer upgrade?

also, do you think your car is more powerful than 370 base?

 

A company called Uprev has a really fantastic ECU mod that replaces the engine map on your car with 5 maps custom-tuned to your car and preferences. It's really cool. Look them up at www.uprev.com

You don't have to do it after the MREV2 / spacer upgrade. It's not required by any means. However, the more mods you have on your car, the more likely it becomes that you might need an ECU tune. This is because your stock ECU is running more and more ineffectively/inefficiently the more you change things. You can end up with a lean or rich air/fuel ratio, or various other issues. This really only becomes an issue, though, once you change A LOT. I, for instance, have exhaust, intake, high flow cats, MREV, and spacer. Really, the only things I'm missing at that point are headers... so I had really done a lot, when you think about it. And for whatever reason, the measured air/fuel ratio looked to be running too lean and needed to be adjusted/fixed. The Osiris is a great way of doing that.

Now to answer the 370Z question... I don't know. I think so. After this tune, I imagine I'll be up around 280whp and 265wtq. The 370z (on a dynojet like the one I dyno'd on) put down about 280whp and 233wtq. That's a huge torque difference, and that doesn't even get to the average HP and TQ numbers (which arguably matter more). So assuming that my tune isn't retarded, I would imagine that my car would be faster than a 370z.

And for only $3,000 in mods on my $27,000 car.... I'd say that works out nicely when compared to the $30,000+ 370z.

 

did you check your bolts, after a couple of days of driving to see if they were still torqued? if so what did you find.

 

i heard that resetting the ecu would be enough after mrev2 / spacer.

i have pretty much your mods, intake, exhaust, and will be getting mrev2/ spacer. not sure if i wanna spend the extra 400-900 on the ecu if i can get acceptable results by just resetting the ecu, what do you think?

ps, what kind of torque wrench are you guys using?
tx

 

In the instructions, they give an explanation of how to do it without a torque wrench. Using a leather glove and a nut driver, you can do it with one hand and safely achieve the same results. I was so worried this would be wrong, I spent forever and a day looking for a proper, cheap in-lb torque wrench and found nothing. I ended up going the route of the glove and nut driver, and it worked perfectly. It was one heck of a relief.


And to answer the question about checking a few days later, I didn't check with anything more than my fingers, but they seemed just as tight as I left them.

 

Oh ok, i had one a little loose, used a torque wrench ( its very old, borrowed from coworker) afraid i may not have gotten enough loctite on it, but ill keep a check on it.

 

Note: You do not need to retorque the screws.

The screws are not moving. They are indeed staying in place. What is happening is the tension on them is relaxing as the internal supports and spacer gaskets go through thermal cycles. As the engine goes through thermal cycles, the internal supports and spacer gaskets squish against the sealing surfaces to form a air tight seal.

The tension on the bolt may be relaxing but the seal made by the gasket is improving.

Unless you notice an obvious leak, (and that would be rare) you never need to torque it again.

 

Thanks, i just wanted to be sure.

 

Onagao,

Can I post your dyno plot on my website as an independent dyno?

Thank you,
Tony