Jay'Z

iTrader: (118)

Are you fawking serious????

rh_334

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like somethings wrong with that dyno, ive never heard of numbers varying that much between consecutive pulls.


you cant use the Kinetix V+ and the spacer, you have to pick one, but yes the Kinetix V+ will fit a MREV2 lower and will clear the strut bar.
the search function is your friend

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

Well now you have. Immediate back to back pulls may be very close, but leave any time (for something like a spacer install) and heat soak can become an issue that can't be well controlled or measured. Just the way it is, especially with a FI setup.

rh_334

iTrader: (2)

yea i know that your dealing with alot more heat in a FI setup, but do you think it could have something do to with you being 5AT? Maybe heat has a affect on the Tranny and causes the inconsistencies?

Erwin06Z

Here's a real hard fact for you, the SSV and the Velocity intakes are two completely different intakes. There is no SSV "Velocity" intake. Every person will have different gains with it depending on their setup. Kinetix stands behind their dyno facts sheet. Either way it flows better than the OEM so go off of that and find out for yourself. It also looks 10x's better.

Juni0r

Ok Another noob question. Would it be a good combo to have the MREV2 with the Kinetix Velocity? or will the MREV2 only work better with the plenum spacer?

Ruthless18x

iTrader: (59)

^ The velocity is a complete plenum replacement. You dont keep the lower plenum that you would replace with the mrev. So you can either do velocity or mrev with plenum spacer.

jes1888

iTrader: (2)

i wanna put something over the OEM plenum of my car, i was looking hardly at the Kinetix SSV or MREV2 plus the Kinetix V++ or spacer, but i dont know what to put because of the thread mentioned here, my car is for daily use, i dont have for track or anything, so im not looking for too much so i can leave the fuel consumption low, so which one do you guys recommend?

F2CMaDMaXX

iTrader: (2)

If it's daily driven, then you want low down power/torque gains. Based on that, and price, the MREV2 with spacer (if you're '06 or newer) or the MREV2 with or without a spacer will get you what you want.

Eno

iTrader: (1)

Unless he's 06 or older AT at which point the MREV 2 with spacer won't help- Spacer alone (5/16ths) is likely the best option. I think they transition into a different engine in O7 isn't it?

MT, however- yes... I think the MREV 2 with a spacer is the way to go. At least as far back as MTs weren't equipped with the DE non revup.

F2CMaDMaXX

iTrader: (2)

Incorrect, the MREV2 makes power & torque, *and* works on all engines, but the spacer is required as well on rev-ups.

dj lizard

iTrader: (6)

If it's cosworth vs kinetix vs APS... cosworth is hands down the best in gains.
I have the kinetix SSV, the only reason I bought it is I lost my OE plenum.
I heard some people blow welds off, when high boosting. it's just a matter of
investment.... if you have the money go with cosworth, if not either stay with the APS
or 5/16" spacer.

jes1888

iTrader: (2)

i have a 2006 REVUP MT and I already have a kinetix V+, so maybe just the MREv2 and the V+ instead of the spacer ? or should i dump the v+ and get the spacer also, or directly to the SSV? I have greddy exhaust from the OEM catalytics to the back and AEM cai with taylor helix tb spacer, nothing else... Things to come maybe some high flow cats and headers

F2CMaDMaXX

iTrader: (2)

Basically, the upper plenum replacements are nearly always to correct the fact that the stock plenum on the older engines is too restricted at the front two cylinders. This problem was corrected on the later models.

I'm not sure about the Kinetix models, but i know that the MREV2 doesn't have any affect on the revup engines UNLESS you run a spacer, then they make great gains. If the Kinetix essentially spaces the upper plenum, then you don't need the spacer.

If you dump the kinetix and go spacer, you can keep the stock strut bar and run the stock upper plenum.

Mrgolde

Im thinking of getting a kinetix manifold for my 350 for a more natural power gain and it looks good in the engine. my question is is it a good product? does it work well in letting the engine breath better? I have nothing else done to the engine right now except a ingen CAI. Thanks

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

V+ or the aluminum one?

Mrgolde

Kinetix Racing 350Z Velocity Manifold 03-06

Waiz

iTrader: (57)

Already ton's of threads on this topic for you to search/research

I merged your thread with the largest and most informative

Fryrot3

Link please

mcarther101

iTrader: (8)

I'm still not seeing any real significant substantiated power gains, and I now whole-heartedly recommend AGAINST installing this product NA or FI.

Alex Renfroe installed it on his Z with Momentum intake, momentum headers, and Tomei Expreme exhaust... went from 272whp to 250whp... I'll let him add details if he wants.

I installed it on my built engine, and also had significant losses. It may have "shifted the power band" right, but if it did... it shifted it so far right that it's only usefull if you have a dry sump oil system because your heads are going to **** themselves reving past 8k RPM all the time.

Here's the before/after of my dyno, green lines are 288whp/266wtq; tuned w/ RC440s, Wiseco 11:1, Eagle Rods, ACL bearings, JWT C8 cams and valve springs, 5/16" Motordyne spacer, JWT pop charger, Z1 Motorsports 60mm straight test pipes, and full SOHO 3" exhaust with no resonators, and 1 Vibrant muffler. Head work was done by a local machine shop in Pensacola, FL that specialized in head work... literally that's all this guy did, and had heads lying all over the place.

Everyone thought it was going to be awesome gains from Z1 to SOHO, and all over the forums if I installed the Kinetix plenum. So I went ahead and picked up a Furookie 3.5" intake, 75mm NWP throttle body, port matched to ->Kinetix Velocity plenum port matched to ->lower runners, port matched to ->heads.... the bottom 3 pulls are the best results we could get out of that combination. In fact, the best pull came when we uninstalled the 3.5" Furookie intake/K&N filter, and retuned it for the OEM intake/JWT pop charger. A staggering 272whp/254wtq were the best results.

My results were on a VQ35DE non-revup, and cam phasing was adjusted various ways by the tuner SOHO Motorsports. The car made similar power 289whp/269whp at Z1 Motorsports where the engine was initially tuned, so I know the numbers are relatively accurate, and just a matter of variations from dyno-dyno.

I've been asked why it's so rough looking up top, and that's because if you take a look at the chart, it's uncorrected without smoothing, when correction is added it was only like 1% different on this particular day. All tuning was legitimate by SOHO Motorsports on CES dyno in Charlotte, NC. Yes, they adjusted for the different MAF housing, yes they adjusted cam phasing... it's a DE, not to many variables.



Some argue that it's just shifted right, and I didn't rev high enough. Well, when 2,000 RPM is your top-end operating range, and you're shifting from 5300-7300RPM... moving right to work from 6000RPM to 8000RPM to make MAYBE 10 extra whp for 700RPM of the very top-end powerband... all-the-while sacrificing huge chunks of 25whp from 5300RPM to 7000RPM just isn't worth it.

Look at the chart, and even imagine if the Kinetix began to climb from 7300RPM to 8000RPM (and really it just sort of starts to flatline the same as the OEM plenum+spacer, it'snot climbing dramatically at all). Since you will be operating largely from 6k-8kRPM, does it make sense to have 6-7.3k (1,300RPM) of power band suffer so dramatically?

This is my estimate of the best case scenario for the Kinetix... and if you're working with an 8k or 8.5k RPM redline, you're not putting Kinetix junk on your car... it's custom one-off race manifolds at that point.