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Trouble removing stock muffler.

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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 02:58 PM
  #21  
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that big hanging rubber bushing in the rear you can really man handle to get it off.

not having jacks, or a lift sucks though man. keep at it.
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 05:04 PM
  #22  
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I finally got it, I used a screwdriver to cut it a little then just stepped in the tip and it broke free. thanks for the help buddy
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 08:32 PM
  #23  
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I said not to do that but it got the job done. lol
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 09:13 PM
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This is one of the most helpful pictures of exhausts I've seen. Thank you.

BTW, what is the exhaust on the right?

Originally Posted by Motormouth
so you are removing the canister, the B pipe and the y pipe then?

the y pipe has no hangers, it is supported by the bolts, and the bracket if you have it.

the B pipe has one hanger and is otherwise supported by being bolted to the Y pipe and canister.

The canister has three hanger, one on either side and one on the right-rear (if looking from the rear of the car) of the canister.

in this picture, you can see that the third, rearmost hanger for the canister: you actually keep the rubber bushing on the hanger itself, you slide it out of the bracket that is bolted to the car. I hope the picture illustrates it clearly:



it is on the left. this rubber supports the weight of the canister, if you can sort of see it on your car.
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 03:48 AM
  #25  
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i think thats a stillen TD
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 12:32 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Cux350z
I get to help a buddy do some test pipes tomorrow. Gonna be fun breaking the header bolts loose....oh the memories of those bastards. 36" of extensions and the perfect aim FTW.
I've never walked away from working on a car pissed until the day I took my stock cats off. Then the day I put my test pipes on, I had a bolt seize up while threading it onto the stud that comes off the header. Wouldn't come back off, so I ended up using a torch on it then improvising.

Last edited by Hexxus; Sep 27, 2009 at 12:35 PM.
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 01:45 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Hexxus
I've never walked away from working on a car pissed until the day I took my stock cats off. Then the day I put my test pipes on, I had a bolt seize up while threading it onto the stud that comes off the header. Wouldn't come back off, so I ended up using a torch on it then improvising.
That is one reason that I'm going to have a shop install my new muffler. In theory, it should be easy. In practice, without a lift, I'm way too old.
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 05:29 PM
  #28  
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dhays,

everything except the upper catalytic converter bolts are cake. I would suggest doing it yourself... shops are notorious for not giving a crap if your exhaust lines up right, or doesn't rub something. they simply can't charge you enough to install it, for it to be worthwhile for them to fiddle with it.
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 06:58 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Motormouth
dhays,

everything except the upper catalytic converter bolts are cake. I would suggest doing it yourself... shops are notorious for not giving a crap if your exhaust lines up right, or doesn't rub something. they simply can't charge you enough to install it, for it to be worthwhile for them to fiddle with it.
I was looking at those bolts yesterday when I was underneath the car changing my MT oil. It didn't look like a lot of fun. My exhaust guy is a local small shop. He has been around our community as long as I have (and I grew up here). I do trust him completely. Even so....

I'll think about it when I take delivery (hopefully soon).
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 07:37 PM
  #30  
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it's 8 bolts and a couple hangers but no biggie either way
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Old Sep 28, 2009 | 07:45 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by dhays
In practice, without a lift, I'm way too old.
Ha, I have a lift. It didn't help much.

Originally Posted by Motormouth
dhays,

everything except the upper catalytic converter bolts are cake.
If they're gaulded fast, then even the bolts facing rearward aren't cake. If you have an acetylene torch to heat the bolts, you're okay. If you're working with just a set of Craftsman wrenches, you're not.

Last edited by Hexxus; Sep 28, 2009 at 07:47 AM.
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Old Sep 28, 2009 | 07:57 AM
  #32  
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gaulded?

and yeah, I know what you mean, but when they are rusted/fused generally I apply enough torque until the bolt heads snap off. problem solved.

and that brings up a good tip: REPLACE ALL THE BOLTS WITH BETTER non-rusting BOLTS. buy ones that won't rust. you'll need a bolt, washer and nut for each part.

and you'll want to replace all the gaskets, and NEVER use the metal perforated gaskets that come with so many aftermarket exhausts... buy stock multi-piece ones, they are worth it.
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