So I have looked through all 180 Threads on here and I can not find anyone who i guess is having the same issue I am. I have an 05 350z 6-speed coupe. I have Tint and Sound system done to it. I can't decide my first step on engine mod now. I was thinking Kinetix Intake Manifold, then i was reading about just putting a spacer and PopCharger on there. Now im confused. Should I put an intake manifold and cold air intake on there, or should i do Spacer and PopCharger?!??! any suggestions. This car well never be TC/SC. But theres a chance of a bottle in the future. I want to do a lot of work to exterior/interior, but kind of feel bad about leaving engine stock :/ Any Suggestions? Price Range is not really an issue.

 

I drove an '03 Z for two years, and now my '04 G Coupe for over 6 years (took delivery on both in the prior calendar year to their MY) -

I may be biased but the order I went and am very happy with on my '04 G Coupe's VQ35DE is the following, and save a few changes I point out due to the Z/G differences, I like the results:

1. Stillen/JWT Popcharger with CAI airbox (keeps a true CAI, I monitored it with my COBB AP and never goes above ambient by max of about 10 deg while the car is being driven).
2. Z-tube, which you probably don't need. I got accordian tubing with a big resonator box for "quiet" - at this stage the car sounded better but honestly, not much difference in the butt dyno.
3. Stillen F & R Strut tower braces, now there are some better plenum spacer friendly choices for the front - and the rear you don't really need.
4. JWT Stage 2 Clutch/FW - no choice in this one, stoick clutch died at about 30k miles, Motul Trans Fluid (very important - trans is somewhat of a weak link over time). Stock clutch is same on both our cars, it's weak.
5. Motul brake fluid with the first new set of pads and rotors for the Brembos - stock fluid is limited lifespan stuff. Pad upgrades can turn your braking force into half a step better than stock.
6. Clutch Slave - if yours is internal forget about it, if external then keep an eye on it for leakage signs, it's a weak link again. If you have slow or no clutch return when it's hot, that's highly likely related. Replace the clutch fluid, too, with something that has a much higher B.P.
7. Hotchkis Sways, Powergrid end links - again rear end link wear somewhat forced the issue there, either replace OEM or buy adjustable and much better links
8. NISMO RAYS LMGT4's and bump to 275/35/19 R, 245/35/19F - the stock rear 245's are just not enough rubber, I went through the Pilot Sports in 20k. On my Z the Bridgestones were nearly done by 12k. I have over 20k on Goodyear Super F1's with easily half the tread left.
9. COBB AP and tune - or many other choices - without which you leave most of any potential power gains on the table, i.e. intake, spacer, etc. This really woke the engine up on the upper end (5000+ rpm) and smoothed out the power and torque curves, with a much more positive clutch and ECM changes, the car changed personality completely.
10. Plenum Spacer (AAM angled spacer)
11. Grounding Kit
12. NISMO Alloy Diff cover with cooling fins - when you change the diff fluid highly recommended, not expensive part (but labor is a bit more time than you might expect). The diff runs hot, fluid OEM gets cooked and I'd change it now if you haven't already (even w/o the cover of course).
13. GSpec braces (3) - after almost 6 years I decided it really needs more bracing up front and that made the most noticeable difference.

I guess my point is take advantage of maintenance time for things like fluid "upgrades", change all the OEM fluids before you think you need to, and realize that w/o tuning/ECM any "power" mods really don't do that much on your car or mine. The stock intake is actually very good, has good flow. IDK if you have the rev-up mani on the '05, which if you do, then bump that up in priority. Costs you torque where you most want it, replace it.

Just my opinion also that Cat-back exhaust w/o HFC's, cross-pipe, and optimally, headers - waste of money. And also w/o tune. The cats are very restrictive for fast light-up when cold. W/o removing that bottleneck exhausts sound great but really don't put down the power - mine is 3" pipe stock, which is an oddity of early production, sounds great, and I won't replace it until needed, then do headers + HFC's at the same time.

Also realize that the stock dampers are pretty good, the stock spring rates are well chosen for most of us, the suspension weak links are the sways and end links (sways also weigh a ton) being non-adjustable and under-sized in the rear at least. Suspension upgrades jumping to CO's without putting some serious seat time in the car is a huge mistake, people really need to know the baseline handling well to make intelligent choices. I think they jump too quickly to AM suspension often just to lower the car. Hands down KW Variant 3's are going onto my car, or if I keep the stock springs, Koni Yellow Sports for about half or less the cost.

See my sig link for extensive pics of mods, etc. Btw I drove the Z bone stock except for the drop-in K&N for 2 years, tracked it some, I would have done almost exactly the same things to it, but I had to sell it after that time...

HTH

 

https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-n...need-help.html

No need to make 2 topics on the same thing.


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