Hey guys, I plan to get some SS headers from the Stillen sale going on here.

I was planning on getting them jethot coated once delivered. Is it worth the extra money to get the 304 stainless steel set if I'm getting them coated anyway? Or should I just get the 409 stainless steel set?

Thanks!

 

buy the cheaper ones if you are getting them coated. I have stainless headers and they are a pain to install, plus they make the engine compartment really hot. I regret not coating mine, but going through the pain of the removal and install or paying someone over $300 dollars is not worth it. Plus, stainless uncoated headers will get you clutch fluid hot, due to the clutch line proximity. Anyways, all in all, I wouldnt recommend the 5-9whp(after tune if that) headers would give you in exchange for the cost and headache. If you you must buy them, coat them, if not, save the 600+ bucks(cost of headers, coating, labor) and just tune your car, youll get more out of it.

 

Thanks for the info. I'm planning on doing a full bolt on HR and seeing what it can run at the 1/4 track. But, I do want to do it right as well, hence the coating.

So is JetHot the best for coating, or are there any other companies people recommend? And if it is JetHot, which coating should I go with? Is 1300 enough?

 

The HR comes with header like exhaust manifolds from the factory. Leave them there since you might actually loose power if they get switched out. I have a rev up so my headers proved little gains compared to the stock exhaust manifold, but in your case, just leave them alone.

 

I'm pretty set on finishing off my bolt-on's with aftermarket headers and exhaust. Wether or not it will be worth it I won't know for a while since I don't plan on finishing my car for a year or two.

I already have a Cobb AP for tuning btw.

 

Ok, to each their own and that is a good start with the access port, just beware that cobb no longer supports it(as far as custom maps, so youll end up with the "cookie cutter" one fits all maps), a dyno tune might be better for you in the long run(you can even adjust throttle response with the technosquare tune). Anyway best of luck to you and get the about 500-1300 coating will be good

 

Contact the shop that will be painting the headers and ask which they recommend.

 

Good point. Guess they'd know best.

 

What's your goal? You'd be better off getting a set of F.I. LTH's off that 370z site... You'd yield possibly better results with more tq, I to am using a Cobb AP on my HR and hit 297whp with Motordyne ART and Shockwave, stillen gen 3's and custom tune.

Like many of them say headers is a minimum 5 hour install, plus the stock headers are already tubular designed not all into one pipe (immediately).

 

My goal for now is to finish with headers and exhaust by spring/summer and see where she is in the 1/4.

By the end of 2012 I want to add quaife lsd and 4.08 gears and try the 1/4 again. Don't know if the clutch/flywheel will go in there or not at that point, but we'll see.

All in all, I just want to see if I can hit 12's on street tires in this car with NA mods. Then after finding out if I can, see what moving to DR/Slicks do.

Right now I'm running intake/hfc's and the Cobb stage 1 tune and running 13.39 in the 1/4. I'm hitting the 8k rev limit a couple hundread feet from the 1/4 which is screwing up my time a little, which is where the gears will come in.

As for a tuner, I've got a shop in mind that tunes with Cobb in MD. But I probably won't get a custom tune until all the mods are on, including the gears/quaife. Until then I'll try to make due with the canned tunes.

Andre, with out full NA mods, hit 12.5 with slicks. I want to see if a full bolt-on HR can at least dip into the 12's first without drag radials/slicks. Well, at least with me driving anyway. lol

 

1. andre12031948 -------------------08 Enth 6spd 12.504@110.00mph 1.696 60ft Verified slicks
2. Brady ---------------------------08 _GT_ 6spd 12.926@111.57mph 1.993 60ft Verified DRs
3. Gooey -------------------------- 07 Enth 6spd 12.947@107.11mph 1.796 60ft Verified DR's

12.XX seconds for a all-motor 350Z is a tall order. You have a goal. Go for it.

 

It wouldn't be fun if it wasn't a challenge.

 

i dont get it.. do you jsut want to say you have headers tho?

Or do you want to do whats right for your car.
Seriously, its one or the other.
DE manifolds.. lame.
HR manifolds.. far nicer
Stillen headers..prettier. About the same flow...especially for a guy who isnt FI.. bolt on builds on this car do very little to its speed.


please read this OP.. look at the pictures.. and listen to what he says

https://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr/3807...o-results.html



" not worth it".

Also, you arent not going to be maxxed out using a Cobb.

I qualify all my statements by having owned them all, and ahving them all in my hand at some point too, not just signing a check etc.

 

I did read that thread before. Perhaps you should read it again...

I'm not looking for massive gains from them, I'm looking for them to help a little towards perhaps getting to under 13 seconds on street tires.

If I make it to that goal, cool. If not, then I'll still have a faster car than I started with. I have no plans to go FI with this car so this is not a choice I'm going to regret at some point in the future.

 

No ones going to change your mind. So why did you make the topic? Stillen makes junk honestly.

 

I really think you'd be happier with the Fast Intentions 370z long tube headers.
Also why are you revving to 8K? I'm custom tuned using cobb and stop making power at 7k.

 

If you read the original post you'll noticed I asked whether or not I should get 304 or 409 stainless steel because I planned on getting the headers coated. My question was never if I should or should not get headers.

Other people came in stating that I should not get headers. In an attempt to prove I'm not full crazy, I've been nicely answering their questions and telling them my plans/goals.

Although the jury is still out on wether or not I'm crazy.

 

The 370 long tube headers fit the HR? I'll see if I can find some links on that, might be another option.

I have it set to 8k because when I only had my hfc's I had the rev limit set to 7.5k and would hit the rev limit when I was about to cross the line. The 8k limit worked for awhile, but when I added my intake apparetly now I reach 8k a even sooner so I just coast it out or have to shift into 4.

I actually shift 1st, and 2nd between 7000 and 7500rpm. I only take it to 8k in third while trying to get across the line.

 

Yeah but just because you reset the rev limit doesn't mean you still make power to that point.

What I'm saying is put the car on a dyno and see where you stop making power, that's where you should shift. Just because you set it to 8k doesn't mean you keep making power till 8k.


Now for the 370z Fast Intentions, they have a 95% correct fitment , If you contact Fast Intentions they'll let you know about the process, you'd actually be able to gain some more tq too.

 

I did have it on a dynoed with the current setup. Problem is the shop that did it didn't give me the sheet 'cause apparently their printer was messed up. Said they'd email it to me and never did.

I should probably get on them about that. lol