F2CMaDMaXX

iTrader: (2)

Yup, wait till the exhaust is cold, get it up on ramps or whatever, have someone start the car and get your hands up there real quick and feel round all the joints.
I mean all round too, including over the top, you'll feel it on yours hands if you're sensitive enough.

okstate707

iTrader: (1)

Ok, i tried what you said and couldnt feel anything around the flanges.

After listening to it a little bit, it sounds like a slight rattle when the revs die down at 1750. I guess its prolly because the drivers side pipe sits higher and closer to the body/heat shield than the passengers side pipe. I still cant understand why it mounted up like that.

Thanks for all the help tho!

F2CMaDMaXX

iTrader: (2)

Hmm, it is an odd one, you mounted it to the manifold only, right? not with the y-pipe in the way?

okstate707

iTrader: (1)

Yea I mounted it to the manifold first (the 3 bolt flange) and tightened each bolt down evenly with the y-pipe hanging out of the way and then mounted it to the y-pipe (2 bolt flange) and did the same thing.

F2CMaDMaXX

iTrader: (2)

Anyway you can check the straightness of the ART pipe it's self, against the other one perhaps?

okstate707

iTrader: (1)

I can't for about a week actually, but i don't really know how I would be able to tell very easily with them mounted on the car. I may eventually just try to take the drivers one off next time I have the car up on the jack and look at it really close and then try and mount it again.

Idk if this would matter, don't think it would, but when I did mount the drivers side pipe I forgot to saw off that bolt they tell you to and ended up sawing it off with it mounted. But it didn't bend the pipe or anything and I don't see how that would cause the problem I have right now..

rs2000rs

Want to know how to undo that demon nut in 5-10 mins without popping the hood or going under the car and no long extensions needed??????
You all will be thinking Im nuts, but I have a way........

if you haven't already jacked up your car at the front - do that.
1. take off one front wheel - there is a hole behind it and you will see the nut. Spray CRC or whatever you like on it.
2. repeat other side.
3. get a 14mm hex socket, quality ratchet, about 300-400mm of pipe to fit over your ratchet, stand next to your car and undo.
4. have a cold drink, and let me know it it worked for you too.

Pic attached (although over time all the pics die - believe me it works - in fact it was the easiest bolt of them all to do)

350zchad

iTrader: (1)

has anyone tried removing them this way?

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

so after your nuts are rusted to **** and no longer look like 14mm nuts but rounded rusty rivets how theI hell do you get these off... Time for headers new cats and new exhaust so I can rid my life of this rusty factory mess.

350zchad

iTrader: (1)

well mine came off easy, but one of the new "demon" bolts stripped.. I had to get my dremmel extension and grind the bolt off.

that will be your easiest approach

nizmo_0385

iTrader: (5)

Mine snapped. Luckily it was the head so it came off i just drilled the stud out of the oem cat for later use

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

Yeah I dont think ive ever seen exhaust bolts that are easily removable unless the car was in its first couple years. Breaking them off is usually the best case scenario. The grinding cutting is the norm for any area that uses salt on the roads. Once apon a time I made the horrible mistake of offering to install an exhaust I was sselling. Turned out very bad, think I actually welded the mid pipe onto the broken bolt because I couldn't get it off.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

You (anyone) should only have this problem once...because on your install of your new header/test pipe/exhaust you should coat the **** out of your threads with copper antiseize...buy the 6ounce can and keep it around...