Good cheap headers w/cams & full bolt ons?
#1
Good cheap headers w/cams & full bolt ons?
Read the PPE long tube header thread, and several others. PPE is just way pricey. Heads are pulled, and car is down, so trying to get fast ideas.
What shorty headers are reasonably priced that I can expect 1) not to crack, and 2) to compliment the rest of my build & get some extra power.
JWT Pop charger
JWT 5/16" plenum spacer
Tomei 272 10.8mm Cams w/ Ferrea comp 1mm oversize valvetrain
Motordyne V1 Art Pipes
Bassani 2.25/2.5" true dual exhaust w/ x-pipe, resonators & 4" tips
If I can't find a set in time, and just run OEM headers, how bad will I be shooting myself in the foot? I mean... cams, valvetrain & headwork is going to be ~$2,800. If not getting $400 headers means ~$2,800 worth of work is down the drain... of course I'll get headers, but just not sure. Most threads about them are in reference to non-cam'd bolt-on cars.
What shorty headers are reasonably priced that I can expect 1) not to crack, and 2) to compliment the rest of my build & get some extra power.
JWT Pop charger
JWT 5/16" plenum spacer
Tomei 272 10.8mm Cams w/ Ferrea comp 1mm oversize valvetrain
Motordyne V1 Art Pipes
Bassani 2.25/2.5" true dual exhaust w/ x-pipe, resonators & 4" tips
If I can't find a set in time, and just run OEM headers, how bad will I be shooting myself in the foot? I mean... cams, valvetrain & headwork is going to be ~$2,800. If not getting $400 headers means ~$2,800 worth of work is down the drain... of course I'll get headers, but just not sure. Most threads about them are in reference to non-cam'd bolt-on cars.
#5
Hm, second person I've had mention HR headers. I have version 1 art pipes (v1 vs v2 no difference performance wise) $325 shipped, which compared to that HR setup would leave me $525 for header-shopping... he's not offering a bad deal, I just feel I can do better price-wise.
Going to do some research on DC Sports now. How are Strupp's? The guy I bought the valvetrain from is selling Strupp headers too.
Going to do some research on DC Sports now. How are Strupp's? The guy I bought the valvetrain from is selling Strupp headers too.
#6
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the only reason cheap headers crack is because people dont use any support on the test pipes like they should be. your making a mistake with the head work though its not going to gain you any top end because stock heads flow so well and kill low end due to dropping velocity. cams and springs/retainers you would be set. did you do a rev up oil pump or do you have a rev up? you need to be revving to 8k to take full advantage of the cams and you should be looking into the 75mm throttle body and a different upper plenum.
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I have a set of DC's ceramic brand new, unused and still in the original box if your interested... I was going to use them on my build and bought them before I decided to ship the whole car to Dynosty... Thinking about $400 for em is fair since they have never been installed... They go for $500+ brand new.
I was about to post them to the classifieds but I need to take a new pic w/ the date and screen name first and then saw your post.
I was about to post them to the classifieds but I need to take a new pic w/ the date and screen name first and then saw your post.
Last edited by Triji; 08-26-2013 at 09:33 PM.
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They were originally bought for an 04 G Coupe... I am pretty sure they are the same for 350z and the G coupe.
Part number on box is NHC4201 and it says under that 03-06 350z/G35 so I am pretty sure they would work for both.
Part number on box is NHC4201 and it says under that 03-06 350z/G35 so I am pretty sure they would work for both.
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If I can't find a set in time, and just run OEM headers, how bad will I be shooting myself in the foot? I mean... cams, valvetrain & headwork is going to be ~$2,800. If not getting $400 headers means ~$2,800 worth of work is down the drain... of course I'll get headers, but just not sure. Most threads about them are in reference to non-cam'd bolt-on cars.
#14
the only reason cheap headers crack is because people dont use any support on the test pipes like they should be. your making a mistake with the head work though its not going to gain you any top end because stock heads flow so well and kill low end due to dropping velocity. cams and springs/retainers you would be set. did you do a rev up oil pump or do you have a rev up? you need to be revving to 8k to take full advantage of the cams and you should be looking into the 75mm throttle body and a different upper plenum.
I have an '03 so no rev-up, upgraded oil pump is on the list. Will be looking for one on ebay/forums/craigslist/etc today. I can't rev past 7200 with a stock bottom end I don't think safely, and know it's sort of a "half-assed" build because of that lol. Down the road, I'll be looking at a larger throttle body/MAF tube.
Let's think of this way. You just put out $2,800 to upgrade cams, valvetrain and headwork to make the car breath more air in to make more power. And it is good you have the full header back exhaust setup to dump the exhaust air as fast as it can to retain the power you gain. But keeping the oem header on an 1st gen VQ35DE is a no no, because that is your bottle neck right there with other breathing mods you have. Upgrade a good set of headers while the motor is out, otherwise it will a pain in the *** if you decide to switch out the headers you installed. Save the money on the headwork and get a nice set of LTH. Oem and DC sports headers don't justified with all the mods you have.
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#16
That BMW engine used to power a space ship or something? lmao
Looking at the Momentum headers someone recommended... but even if I can get them for a good price, a local guy installed those on top of art pipes on his VQ35DE Z, and saw zero gains vs OEM headers & art pipes... maybe it's a bad combination of things somehow, but when these parts cost $900 and $500 respectively, it's a little disconcerting. Hard to know if it's something to attribute to the combination of things, or the fact that he doesn't have cams & maybe his bottleneck is in the heads/intake side of the house.
Looking at the Momentum headers someone recommended... but even if I can get them for a good price, a local guy installed those on top of art pipes on his VQ35DE Z, and saw zero gains vs OEM headers & art pipes... maybe it's a bad combination of things somehow, but when these parts cost $900 and $500 respectively, it's a little disconcerting. Hard to know if it's something to attribute to the combination of things, or the fact that he doesn't have cams & maybe his bottleneck is in the heads/intake side of the house.
#17
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FYI for the purposes of this thread, I'm the one that's running the Momentum Headers and ART pipes. The results from the dyno after tuning weren't promising. However, I was offered a free session of re-tuning since the shop I took it to didn't even like the chart after they took a closer look at it.
Not really sure if it's some type of bottleneck, or another issue. I have a very unique setup on my DE overall, so it will probably take some careful tuning and/or a possibly change from my ported & polished OEM plenum. I'm also looking into the possibility that my popcharger was "blasting" my MAF due to its close proximity to the 360deg air filter element. This issue is actually mentioned by Tony from Motordyne at the bottom of an article that can be read here: http://www.gtrlife.com/forums/topic/...-engine-power/ I've since switched to an OEM 06 airbox with a K&N drop in filter in hopes this may remedy a possible tuning anomaly that's happening with my setup.
We found that little snip when researching the possibility of ART pipes robbing power. However, all of our findings certainly contradict that theory.
My results aren't typical. Also, to correct the previous comment, this was no gains shown with momentum headers + ART pipes vs OEM manifolds + test pipes.
I'll be sure to update the status of this after re-tuning
Not really sure if it's some type of bottleneck, or another issue. I have a very unique setup on my DE overall, so it will probably take some careful tuning and/or a possibly change from my ported & polished OEM plenum. I'm also looking into the possibility that my popcharger was "blasting" my MAF due to its close proximity to the 360deg air filter element. This issue is actually mentioned by Tony from Motordyne at the bottom of an article that can be read here: http://www.gtrlife.com/forums/topic/...-engine-power/ I've since switched to an OEM 06 airbox with a K&N drop in filter in hopes this may remedy a possible tuning anomaly that's happening with my setup.
We found that little snip when researching the possibility of ART pipes robbing power. However, all of our findings certainly contradict that theory.
My results aren't typical. Also, to correct the previous comment, this was no gains shown with momentum headers + ART pipes vs OEM manifolds + test pipes.
I'll be sure to update the status of this after re-tuning
Last edited by RENFRO; 08-27-2013 at 02:26 PM.
#18
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i have megans which are 16 guage and standard thickness for most platforms. some are made thicker to account for improper install. but if you arnt supporting the rest of the exhaust then it would be your fault they crack and a company shouldnt have to account for and pay for improper installs. now the fitment is NOT as good as a higher dollar pair but no aftermarket set will be perfect. i have put mine through repeated red hot cycles at 600 and up whp with no issues, but my exhaust is also properly supported.
if your only revving to 7200 then you should get no more then 264's your not taking advantage of the 272's and killing down low power while gaining nothing up top. you want as much airflow as the engine needs without killing velocity. if you can pick up extra airflow without changing velocity thats good but typically more airflow means less velocity and seems you would benefit most from smaller cams especially since you got bigger valves.
if your only revving to 7200 then you should get no more then 264's your not taking advantage of the 272's and killing down low power while gaining nothing up top. you want as much airflow as the engine needs without killing velocity. if you can pick up extra airflow without changing velocity thats good but typically more airflow means less velocity and seems you would benefit most from smaller cams especially since you got bigger valves.
I thought some (ebay mainly) headers were just super thin stainless steel, and if not thick enough could have crack after some time/heat cycles (not sure exactly what cracks them... my buddy cracks OEM headers constantly on his 190e apparently from harmonic resonance of the engine)? As for the head work, I am honestly sort of worried about oversized valves now. After reading more about the subject, and Sasha's thoughts I could be shooting myself in the foot, and probably at least need to focus more on port work & valve angle work than valve size... ****'
I have an '03 so no rev-up, upgraded oil pump is on the list. Will be looking for one on ebay/forums/craigslist/etc today. I can't rev past 7200 with a stock bottom end I don't think safely, and know it's sort of a "half-assed" build because of that lol. Down the road, I'll be looking at a larger throttle body/MAF tube.
Ya, I'm seeing how much of a PITA it would be to do later... motor is actually in the car, heads are just pulled - but still substantially easier to do now than later.
I have an '03 so no rev-up, upgraded oil pump is on the list. Will be looking for one on ebay/forums/craigslist/etc today. I can't rev past 7200 with a stock bottom end I don't think safely, and know it's sort of a "half-assed" build because of that lol. Down the road, I'll be looking at a larger throttle body/MAF tube.
Ya, I'm seeing how much of a PITA it would be to do later... motor is actually in the car, heads are just pulled - but still substantially easier to do now than later.
#19
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no offense but how many times have you taken any of the cheaper headers to that temp range? ive done it, binders done it and im sure more boosted performance customers have done it as well as front mount guys. they have half inch thick flanges and standard 16 guage identical to momentum's. momentums only real advantage is a slightly better metalurgy, tig welding, and a partial burns collector you will still break that **** if not braced which is the cause of all the cracked headers. people say F the cat brace and then wonder why they crack headers it has nothing to do with the heat cycles because several of us have put it through them without issue. i have a good 75-100 of these heat cycles with no issue what so ever. not to mention trying to compare a na vq35 to a 600 hp le mans engine is just lol
honestly headers dont become a restriction till 500-550 whp you might pick up a little with aftermarket and tuning but you arnt going to bottleneck them.
honestly headers dont become a restriction till 500-550 whp you might pick up a little with aftermarket and tuning but you arnt going to bottleneck them.
OBX lth or any other types of cheap Ebay brand headers will not stand a chance with this type of heat cycle endurance on the 350Z, LOL. Gain power is one thing, but keeping your engine in one piece should be the first priority when upgrading your car to seek more power.
Last edited by jerryd87; 08-27-2013 at 06:18 PM.
#20
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OBX lth or any other types of cheap Ebay brand headers will not stand a chance with this type of heat cycle endurance on the 350Z, LOL. Gain power is one thing, but keeping your engine in one piece should be the first priority when upgrading your car to seek more power.
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