Ok guys just recently installed dc headers ceramic-coated & cnt highflow cats & a few other things myself, however I do not have any gas lines or brake lines protected as of yet from the heat of the headers. What is some of the stuff you guys use to protect the crucial areas? Would like to see pictures if you have some.

 

Off topic but how are the dc headers?

 

I never added any protection after my dc header install. From what I read its not exactly necessary if a daily driver or to try to reduce temps. Since the header install the clutch will get squishy even with a SS line on hot days; so i'm gonna put in high temp fluid n hope that fixes the issue.

 

So far no CEL from either mods right now, steering shaft doesn't rub or even come close to the header. This has been my 2nd best mod for the car since MREV ~ both added noticeable butt dyno power without a doubt. This was my favorite DIY job yet for my car.

 

Say what... How was the installation on the headers? Was it as horrible as the DIY makes it out to be? Did you just buy all new 02 sensors? As for the heat issues you could probably try wrapping things up with exhaust wrap, or some other type of insulator... Probably would have been best to wrap the headers.

 

I did my install on ramps not jack stands. Drain coolant, remove engine brace, remove intake, remove wiring & tubing that could be in the way, remove coolant hard lines driver side & passenger side.......passenger side pops off & has a rubber o ring seal, it's a two piece coolant hardline not a one piece so leave the back part alone. Heat shields are held by 4 bolts each and you may break them but don't worry but use a ratchet wrench. I used a breaker bar to loosen the stock header nuts & used 3/8, 1/2 socket wrenches & ratchet wrenches to remove the stock headers, headers come out from the bottom of the car. Since putting in performance headers they will be bigger & the driver side steering shaft will have to be undone & pushed over to the side for the new header to be put in place. Steering shaft has two bolts that need to be loosen or taken out, soak with Pb Blaster & WD 40 like 4 times or more, split the shaft sleeve a little bit with a flat head screw driver & gear sleeve with flat head screw driver & keep soaking it with PB & WD. Work the sh!!!!TTTT back & forth the sleeve should slide back & forth on the splines & it will eventually pop off and you will be able to fit the new header in. Also mark the shaft before you take it off too. I took my sensors out when the headers & stock cats were all out & I just used a crescent wrench.

 

This will take a lot of time & patience but it's worth it. Label everything & bag it.

 

Nice... I need to change my cats and my bolts are so rusty I have no idea how im going to get them off without a torch, im debating if I should just brake off the bolts and change out the manifolds... It's on my maybe list for now.

 

Any gains from these headers?

 

Minimal gains from shorty headers, hence why i always say they are a waste of time

 

Putting headers on these cars isn't the hardest thing I've done but it is one of the biggest pains in the *** I've ever dealt with. Short tubes and test pipes are going to gain you about the same as long tubes without the effort of long tubes but even then it's not huge gains. ~15-20hp after a good tune. These aren't corvettes.

 

hell with heads, headers and tune i only gained 40whp to the tune of $5800

 

Damn. The ls3's will do nearly 40rwhp with just headers and a tune.

 

heads were done as a precaution (google ls7 dropped valve) so that was 3800 alone, but i have brass valve guides, dual valve springs, titanium retainers, ported and polished. it raised the compression some, but to get the most of the ls7 you have to do heads, headers, cam and tune. the cam is coming this december

 

Didn't even think about the dropped valves.

 

DC headers are poop, shorty headers in general are actually.

 

Finally getting around to putting them on... The horror is real.