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And test pipe install begins

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Old 06-22-2017, 05:32 AM
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Goodolejim
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Default Lift

So I work at a tire and wheel shop/mechanic work. Since my Berk test pipes came with nuts and bolts and I had little luck taking the devil/demon/WTF bolts off I'm gonna put it on a lift at my job today and put the grinder to work, cutting the nuts off these cats to hopefully make them my *****. Good idea? I can get off all of the bolts off except the 1 stud bolt and one lug bolt on each side of the cat/header connection (band name idea?). Any tips on how to fit the angle grinder up there on the lift? Or should I give the long ratchet extension combo another go since I'll have alot more leverage with the car 5-6ft in the air? I'm already sick of these nuts and have plenty of war wounds on my hands lol
Old 06-22-2017, 05:47 AM
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When I did mine, I read all the horror stories and decided to load up on tools. Harbor Freight for 1/2" extensions, u joints and such. Put the car on stands and flooded with Liquid Wrench and PB.

Next morning the garage smelled like an exploded lab, had to air it out. I was lucky, car from the South. I used combinations of extensions and u joints with deep sockets working very slowly to make sure sockets were on flush and square. The torque wrench and cheater bar were enough to break all mine loose. (no power tools)

If you had to, you could prolly use a Sawz All with a bi-metal blade.
gl!
Old 06-22-2017, 06:36 AM
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Atreyu'z 350
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Originally Posted by Goodolejim
lol just bought a torch. Gonna drink a couple shots then I'll get back to work

Whaaaat. Well, just don't...^
Old 06-22-2017, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by jhc
When I did mine, I read all the horror stories and decided to load up on tools. Harbor Freight for 1/2" extensions, u joints and such. Put the car on stands and flooded with Liquid Wrench and PB.

Next morning the garage smelled like an exploded lab, had to air it out. I was lucky, car from the South. I used combinations of extensions and u joints with deep sockets working very slowly to make sure sockets were on flush and square. The torque wrench and cheater bar were enough to break all mine loose. (no power tools)

If you had to, you could prolly use a Sawz All with a bi-metal blade.
gl!


That's almost exactly how I did mine.. I DID need to use two power tools though. An angle grinder for the Y-pipe bolts, and a 1/2in. impact driver with a universal joint and a 3ft. extension for the top. As jhc said. Take your time and don't rush, otherwise you'll run into big problems that will cost you MORE time and money.. Good luck.
Old 06-22-2017, 05:14 PM
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Default Finally!

I actually did it , took alot of work but it's done. Holy **** it's loud!! I took my muffler on because I'm putting my new one on in a few days, the drone is real... Thank you all for the help and advice
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Old 06-22-2017, 05:24 PM
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Oh I forgot I also didn't get any CEL
Old 06-22-2017, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Atreyu'z 350
That's almost exactly how I did mine.. I DID need to use two power tools though. An angle grinder for the Y-pipe bolts, and a 1/2in. impact driver with a universal joint and a 3ft. extension for the top. As jhc said. Take your time and don't rush, otherwise you'll run into big problems that will cost you MORE time and money.. Good luck.

Thanks bud I finished it on the lift, top bolts I used a few ft of extensions with an impact air gun. Since I have no CEL that mean I have no leaks right? I'm in the clear??
Old 06-22-2017, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Atreyu'z 350




Whaaaat. Well, just don't...^
Lmao it sounds like a worse idea than it was....I think
Old 06-22-2017, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by jhc
When I did mine, I read all the horror stories and decided to load up on tools. Harbor Freight for 1/2" extensions, u joints and such. Put the car on stands and flooded with Liquid Wrench and PB.

Next morning the garage smelled like an exploded lab, had to air it out. I was lucky, car from the South. I used combinations of extensions and u joints with deep sockets working very slowly to make sure sockets were on flush and square. The torque wrench and cheater bar were enough to break all mine loose. (no power tools)

If you had to, you could prolly use a Sawz All with a bi-metal blade.
gl!
Torque wrench was enough for most but on the top one I had to do without a swivel so I used a air gun, plenty of PB soaking then had to tighten before loosening for that one to break. I have a super deep rumble at idle, maybe the no muffler thing :/ but I love it, I really see a difference at high speeds . Could just be my imagination but I doubt it
Old 06-23-2017, 07:19 AM
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Cool story, bruh. Glad it ended well!
Old 06-23-2017, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by jhc
Cool story, bruh. Glad it ended well!

Me too
Old 06-23-2017, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Goodolejim
Thanks bud I finished it on the lift, top bolts I used a few ft of extensions with an impact air gun. Since I have no CEL that mean I have no leaks right? I'm in the clear??
No problem, dude.. Not leaks, but closed loop. That means that your car has achieved closed loop and the data it's recieving from the O2 sensors in your test pipes are within acceptable parameters. However, if you disconnected your negative battery terminal during this process you most likely won't get the CEL until it has completed the readiness check while driving, which usually takes between 30-50 miles.
Old 06-23-2017, 09:02 AM
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Mine never threw a code
Old 06-23-2017, 09:50 AM
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Cuz you had the extended O2 bungs, right?
Old 06-23-2017, 10:05 AM
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Well i should have stated i had ART pipes that had the extended bung, and also tuned.....small bit of info i forgot. I blame beer and sun
Old 06-23-2017, 10:26 AM
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Haha.. Ahh ok. Justified.. I think I'll have a beer later too
Old 06-23-2017, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Atreyu'z 350
No problem, dude.. Not leaks, but closed loop. That means that your car has achieved closed loop and the data it's recieving from the O2 sensors in your test pipes are within acceptable parameters. However, if you disconnected your negative battery terminal during this process you most likely won't get the CEL until it has completed the readiness check while driving, which usually takes between 30-50 miles.
Never D/c'd the battery and I've driven about 100 miles already still no CEL so I guess closed loop achieved. I was very Cary when even touching the o2 sensors, I didn't want to have to buy a new one. Tough job for me but in the end I got the best possible outcome, luckily.
Old 06-23-2017, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Goodolejim
Never D/c'd the battery and I've driven about 100 miles already still no CEL so I guess closed loop achieved. I was very Cary when even touching the o2 sensors, I didn't want to have to buy a new one. Tough job for me but in the end I got the best possible outcome, luckily.
Forgot to show them off
Old 06-23-2017, 09:09 PM
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Save those suckers. You nvr know...
Old 06-24-2017, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by jhc
Save those suckers. You nvr know...
Well that may be off the table idk, I left them at my job and people were asking what I was gonna do with them, without thinking I responded" I don't know I really don't want em" so they could or could not be there, if they are I'll grab em tomorrow




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