heat wrap to stop exhaust rattle?
#1
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heat wrap to stop exhaust rattle?
My exhaust is rattling on the metal support brace after the y-pipe section (See picture). I was thinking about wrapping the exhaust or/and brace with heat wrap or something so that the rattle is not metal on metal... I don't know what else i could do. I'm obviously not gonna remove that support brace lol... Any ideas?
#6
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rustyschopshop (06-30-2019)
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#9
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Exhaust wrap is great on a race car. Exhaust wrap on a street car is bad, especially under the car. The wrap will lower the lifetime of the metal. It's been proven to hold in excess moisture is the only reason. If the car never sees rain ever or is a trailer queen I say go for it. Just my 2 cents
If exhaust is hitting a piece of the car, it's made horribly, installed wrong, or something is off, hangers, etc. This is part of why I've never owned a car that had flex pipes on it aside from my factory y pipe. A solid exhaust made and installed correctly won't hit anything. Flexing slightly one way pushes something else down or up hitting. I know people are gonna say flex pipes are great, blah blah. My Mustang GT, friends Corvette, and my old LT1 cars worked perfectly fine without flex pipes anywhere.
Start at the front area with the y pipe and use a pry bar or yours hands, tug and pull and see if the exhaust is moving anywhere or you can replicate the exhaust hitting that support. Work your way down to trouble shooting if it's a install/hanger issue or bad design
If exhaust is hitting a piece of the car, it's made horribly, installed wrong, or something is off, hangers, etc. This is part of why I've never owned a car that had flex pipes on it aside from my factory y pipe. A solid exhaust made and installed correctly won't hit anything. Flexing slightly one way pushes something else down or up hitting. I know people are gonna say flex pipes are great, blah blah. My Mustang GT, friends Corvette, and my old LT1 cars worked perfectly fine without flex pipes anywhere.
Start at the front area with the y pipe and use a pry bar or yours hands, tug and pull and see if the exhaust is moving anywhere or you can replicate the exhaust hitting that support. Work your way down to trouble shooting if it's a install/hanger issue or bad design
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
Exhaust wrap is great on a race car. Exhaust wrap on a street car is bad, especially under the car. The wrap will lower the lifetime of the metal. It's been proven to hold in excess moisture is the only reason. If the car never sees rain ever or is a trailer queen I say go for it. Just my 2 cents
If exhaust is hitting a piece of the car, it's made horribly, installed wrong, or something is off, hangers, etc. This is part of why I've never owned a car that had flex pipes on it aside from my factory y pipe. A solid exhaust made and installed correctly won't hit anything. Flexing slightly one way pushes something else down or up hitting. I know people are gonna say flex pipes are great, blah blah. My Mustang GT, friends Corvette, and my old LT1 cars worked perfectly fine without flex pipes anywhere.
Start at the front area with the y pipe and use a pry bar or yours hands, tug and pull and see if the exhaust is moving anywhere or you can replicate the exhaust hitting that support. Work your way down to trouble shooting if it's a install/hanger issue or bad design
If exhaust is hitting a piece of the car, it's made horribly, installed wrong, or something is off, hangers, etc. This is part of why I've never owned a car that had flex pipes on it aside from my factory y pipe. A solid exhaust made and installed correctly won't hit anything. Flexing slightly one way pushes something else down or up hitting. I know people are gonna say flex pipes are great, blah blah. My Mustang GT, friends Corvette, and my old LT1 cars worked perfectly fine without flex pipes anywhere.
Start at the front area with the y pipe and use a pry bar or yours hands, tug and pull and see if the exhaust is moving anywhere or you can replicate the exhaust hitting that support. Work your way down to trouble shooting if it's a install/hanger issue or bad design
Thanks for the help man, i didn't order exhaust wrap because i always feel like fixing things the right way and couldn't deal with having a wrap under my car protecting the exhaust lol! I'm gonna try loosening the bolts and pushing the exhaust upward and tight the bolts when holding it to see if it fixes it. If that doesn't work then it must be the exhaust hangers... It's an ISR exhaust and i've heard good things about it so i doubt it's a bad design... We'll see!
#11
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exhaust wrap as in folding it to squeeze in between the exhaust and the brace is a easy fix.
Wrapping it is the same good idea, as mentioned if you see excessive rain...shy away from this idea.
I had to do the same thing on my AAM 3".
Wrapping it is the same good idea, as mentioned if you see excessive rain...shy away from this idea.
I had to do the same thing on my AAM 3".
#12
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Thread Starter
Yea it's my daily and there's a lot of rain where i live. I tried jacking the exhaust while the bolts where loose and then tighthen them again and i think it worked but is it normal for my exhaust to be like extremely close to the driveshaft? It's not touching but i can't fit a finger between the driveshaft and exhaust... Anyone? I'm not starting it unless someone tells me that it's fine. I don't want to destroy my driveshaft LOL!
#13
Registered User
Yea it's my daily and there's a lot of rain where i live. I tried jacking the exhaust while the bolts where loose and then tighthen them again and i think it worked but is it normal for my exhaust to be like extremely close to the driveshaft? It's not touching but i can't fit a finger between the driveshaft and exhaust... Anyone? I'm not starting it unless someone tells me that it's fine. I don't want to destroy my driveshaft LOL!
Should have took pics OP. If you think you fixed it than it's probably fixed. Better to do before something gets bent or starts leaking.
You could attach a small things piece of heat insulation of some sort on that support piece to give it some deadening in case it comes close to hitting again. Something that can take some heat and keep the metal on metal contact sound lower
#15
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I run an ISR single, track duty only. I was in between exhausts (cracked) and the price was crack head low, so it was a no brainer to give it a try.
It sits on the brace, I wired in some heat wrap and the clang is gone.
Zero issues with the driveshaft. The piping and welds have held up to quite some heat with no cracking. Muffler and resonator havent come loose and start rattling. It has held up quite well.
You will notice how you cant push it up into the shaft, which is the only reason was ok running it.
Actually Im pretty pleased with the thing. And it sounds pretty good also.
It sits on the brace, I wired in some heat wrap and the clang is gone.
Zero issues with the driveshaft. The piping and welds have held up to quite some heat with no cracking. Muffler and resonator havent come loose and start rattling. It has held up quite well.
You will notice how you cant push it up into the shaft, which is the only reason was ok running it.
Actually Im pretty pleased with the thing. And it sounds pretty good also.
#16
New Member
I run the Z1 single exit exhaust, and there was some rattling, since it basically sits on the crossmember - I wrapped the exhaust to eliminate excessive drone, and it also stopped the rattling.
#17
I run an ISR single, track duty only. I was in between exhausts (cracked) and the price was crack head low, so it was a no brainer to give it a try.
It sits on the brace, I wired in some heat wrap and the clang is gone.
Zero issues with the driveshaft. The piping and welds have held up to quite some heat with no cracking. Muffler and resonator havent come loose and start rattling. It has held up quite well.
You will notice how you cant push it up into the shaft, which is the only reason was ok running it.
Actually Im pretty pleased with the thing. And it sounds pretty good also.
It sits on the brace, I wired in some heat wrap and the clang is gone.
Zero issues with the driveshaft. The piping and welds have held up to quite some heat with no cracking. Muffler and resonator havent come loose and start rattling. It has held up quite well.
You will notice how you cant push it up into the shaft, which is the only reason was ok running it.
Actually Im pretty pleased with the thing. And it sounds pretty good also.
I think I’m having this similar problem, I just installed a isr single cbe on my 370z and after doing big pulls and slowing down the car I would hear like my exhaust hitting something under my car but can’t figure out what it is, could it be poor installation?
#18
New Member
He resolved by wrapping the exhaust, so it's not metal on metal. You could try loosening all the bolts, propping the exhaust up with a jack, and tightening everything in place. But wrapping it probably gonna work best, that did the trick on my 350z (though I have Z1 exhaust, same issue)
#20
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Now that I run a resonator delete on this setup it doesnt hit anything anymore. But the welds and ISR can are still going strong, much to my disbelief!