Kinetix Plenum Installed w/ pics!
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I took half day off today just to wait and install my plenum.. I received it around 3:30 and quickly I start to work. I removed all bolts / hoses as per Chrismcagle's instruction, which is very helpful.. Before I set the plenum on the engine, I attached the thottle body on the plenum first.. It's much easier when it's on the ground. Then I apply a thin layer of high temp rtv (gasket maker) on the cork gasket of the plenum, this will asure a better seal where the plastic plenum meets the bottom portion of the factory plenum.
When I set the plastic plenum on top of the engine, I noticed the two post that LSD supplied was pushing the plenum higher, and I couldn't tighten down on the bolts to get a better seal. It turned out that I didn't need the washer on the two post, and I removed them. This will lower the posts so the plenum will sit lower than before. Then I hand tight every bolt, make sure I don't crack it.. After all the bolts are tighten down, then I use torque wrench to finish the install.
Now to the test drive.. As soon as I start the engine, I can hear the engine sound totally different. It sounded like the valve train are moving up and down, seems like more mechanical sound.. If you put your hand on top of the plenum, you can actually change the sound! Guess plastic doesn't sound deaden as well as aluminum.. It also reminded me of the raw Camero V8 engine sound.. which is good I think..
The car is absolute a blast to drive!! First gear was getting lots of wheel spin, and as soon as the tach hit over 3000~rpm, the engine just jump to another level.. seems like the power keeps climbing until redline and there is no let down! I couldn't believe how much power my Z has now.... can't wait to get it dyno in couple weeks...
After coming back from the test drive, I tighten the bolts some more.. and install my engine cover. I will check it tomorrow to see if there is any leak.. but so far so good!!
here are some tips:
1. use the high temp rtv on the gasket, it will only help!
2. before tighten down all the bolts, install the bolts onto the middle two post first, they gave me the MOST problem since it's hard to align the bolts.
3. connec the coolant hoses underneth the thottle body before you set the plenum down. it will make you life easier!
4. use a torque wrench (at least the first product version). 36in/lb will be good enough.
5. you may attach the ground wire on the thottle body, I think it will help since the thottle body can get better ground...
I will be keeping this plenum, and hope everyone can enjoy it when LSDUnique release version 2 soon...
Finished shot
Apply thin layer of high temp rtv (gasket maker)
Attach ground wire on the thottle body.
When I set the plastic plenum on top of the engine, I noticed the two post that LSD supplied was pushing the plenum higher, and I couldn't tighten down on the bolts to get a better seal. It turned out that I didn't need the washer on the two post, and I removed them. This will lower the posts so the plenum will sit lower than before. Then I hand tight every bolt, make sure I don't crack it.. After all the bolts are tighten down, then I use torque wrench to finish the install.
Now to the test drive.. As soon as I start the engine, I can hear the engine sound totally different. It sounded like the valve train are moving up and down, seems like more mechanical sound.. If you put your hand on top of the plenum, you can actually change the sound! Guess plastic doesn't sound deaden as well as aluminum.. It also reminded me of the raw Camero V8 engine sound.. which is good I think..
The car is absolute a blast to drive!! First gear was getting lots of wheel spin, and as soon as the tach hit over 3000~rpm, the engine just jump to another level.. seems like the power keeps climbing until redline and there is no let down! I couldn't believe how much power my Z has now.... can't wait to get it dyno in couple weeks...
After coming back from the test drive, I tighten the bolts some more.. and install my engine cover. I will check it tomorrow to see if there is any leak.. but so far so good!!
here are some tips:
1. use the high temp rtv on the gasket, it will only help!
2. before tighten down all the bolts, install the bolts onto the middle two post first, they gave me the MOST problem since it's hard to align the bolts.
3. connec the coolant hoses underneth the thottle body before you set the plenum down. it will make you life easier!
4. use a torque wrench (at least the first product version). 36in/lb will be good enough.
5. you may attach the ground wire on the thottle body, I think it will help since the thottle body can get better ground...
I will be keeping this plenum, and hope everyone can enjoy it when LSDUnique release version 2 soon...
Finished shot
Apply thin layer of high temp rtv (gasket maker)
Attach ground wire on the thottle body.
Last edited by Apexi350z; Mar 8, 2004 at 07:41 PM.
ack, theres not supposed to be a washer used on the post!!
The posts are the correct height without the washers. I am glad you are happy.
We just finished our revision with testing and they can be securely torqued down without even worrying about the plastic cracking. I know I feel better!!
The revisions start shipping tomorrow
The posts are the correct height without the washers. I am glad you are happy.
We just finished our revision with testing and they can be securely torqued down without even worrying about the plastic cracking. I know I feel better!!
The revisions start shipping tomorrow
Does the rtv gasket adhere to the lower plenum? In other words, if you wanted to go back to stock, would you have to scrape of the rtv from the lower plenum before the original plenum can be attached?
Last edited by sands; Mar 8, 2004 at 09:22 PM.
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Originally posted by sands
Does the rtv gasket adhere to the lower plenum? In other words, if you wanted to go back to stock, would you have to scrape of the rtv from the lower plenum before the original plenum can be attached?
Does the rtv gasket adhere to the lower plenum? In other words, if you wanted to go back to stock, would you have to scrape of the rtv from the lower plenum before the original plenum can be attached?
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Originally posted by cinergi1
I assume you are still using the stock gasket even with using the RTV sealant?
I assume you are still using the stock gasket even with using the RTV sealant?
with the modification to VERSION 2, I don't think you will need the rtv gasket maker, since you can tighten down the bolts even more without worry about cracking the Kinetix Plenum... The cork gasket on the Kinetix Plenum should be sufficient...
Last edited by Apexi350z; Mar 9, 2004 at 05:42 AM.
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Originally posted by lsdunique
ack, theres not supposed to be a washer used on the post!!
ack, theres not supposed to be a washer used on the post!!
The post didn't need the washer afterall....
I am very happy you are happy. So then we are both happy.
I really like the "growl" that the engine makes now... Definitely will make other ppl notice if they drive next to you
Originally posted by lsdunique
I am very happy you are happy. So then we are both happy.
I am very happy you are happy. So then we are both happy.
How long does shipping take for these? I'm in Georgia.
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Originally posted by Hraesvelg
I'm happy that you are happy that he is happy.
How long does shipping take for these? I'm in Georgia.
I'm happy that you are happy that he is happy.
How long does shipping take for these? I'm in Georgia.
FedEx Ground®
Total 4 business days at End of Day.
http://www.fedex.com/TransitTime/hom...scend_header=1
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I have a question. After one day of normal driving, I noticed I can torque down the flange bolts even more with same torque wrench spec. How often do I need to recheck the flange bolts? Should I even bother if there is no vacuum / air leak?
I don't think I put Loktite on all the flange bolts, maybe that's the problem?
Thanks for any reply..
I don't think I put Loktite on all the flange bolts, maybe that's the problem?
Thanks for any reply..
That is your problem, their needs to be threadlock on all the flange bolts. I am not sure it will be needed with the revisions with inserts, but definately on your plenum. Also torque it down to spec, then let it cure for about 30-60 minutes.
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