Yes, I think they are becoming more available so you should get soon.

Yes, there is some hardware, but no gaskets.

 

same thing here

 

Got my ceramics yesterday.......very nice quality welds and great matching from the flange to the intake runners.....very smoooooth

 

Mpowers, or anyone else for that matter, what size ratcheting wrench do you need to install these? I'd like to get all my tools together before I start the install.

Thanks

 

My date keeps moving back. First it was 6/15, then 6/22, now 6/26. WTF

 

That happpened to me as well. Just be patient....grasshopper and you shall be happy in the end...

 

channy its a 14mm, I had 3 diffent 14mm wrenches and not a one would fit.
THX723 I have really enjoyed the headers, the sound alone is worth it. And in the higher rpms it really comes to life.
To top it off I installed a jwt flywheel and clutch last friday.

 

So do you have maybe a couple tips to give the DIY'er that is not stated in the install instructions. eg. Which 14mm you used or anything else special that you did to make it easier.

Thnx,
Stephen

 

OMFG! The install took me 10 hours to complete! I did it on an open lift and it took me 10 hours! The sound is good. Not deeper, but it is a little louder and alot smoother. I love the sound of a smooth flowing ehaust. The car feels faster, but my butt dyno was asleep after the long install. I will drive it to work tomorrow and tell you what I think.

On the wrenches and tools. You will need a 3/8 metric socket set(deep and shallow), 1/2 inch metric set (deep and shallow), lots and lots of extensions, a breaker bar and a cheater bar to put on wratchets and socket wrenches, a full set of box and open end metric wrenches, and a full set of ratcheting metric wrenches (Not the thick ones). Air tools are a definate plus!

As for the extras, you will need heat shield tape, green antifreeze, and distilled water.

This install is not for the faint of heart, I install all of my mods and this one took the cake! Good luck and feel free to PM me with any questions, I ca recite the entire install process now.

 

Wow, how juicy! I have planned on getting the JWT flywheel and clutch as soon as my stocker expires. How's the driveability? A friend of mine recently installed the Nismo Flywheel and Clutch and the noise/vibration it creates under load between 1500 and 2000 was wayyy more intrusive than we both were expecting. I suppose I could learn to deal w. the sound, but the vibration was pretty nasty.

Thanks for the feedback

 

Based upon this... for you faint at heart folks in SoCal... Remember we are running a header install SPECIAL for the Summit Racing lucky ones...

email me if you have interest... jchen@streetimage.com

-Jeff

 

congrats on the install alininger2001....how do you rate the difficulty from 1-10...and how do you rate yourself as a mechanic

i like to do my own work as well...but no access to a lift....will be working from under jackstands and have a couple of helping hands too

 

ALINGER,,

As for the extras, you will need heat shield
tape, green antifreeze, and distilled water.

Whats the reason for the Extra's?

 

Ceramic



Stainless

 

ALINGER what did you use the collant for? Or did we take more off than we should have? You are right this is not a job for people not up to the task.
The only thing I found for a trick was to unbolt the compressor so it would move up an inch to access the front left nut on the manifold and if you remove the starter ( don't forget to disconnect the battery, only unbolt it from the trans.) the heat shield will come out of the right side a with less effort. The racheting wrench was a 14mm short craftsman style all I could find at a last minute deal.

 

mpowers, did you reuse your coolant or did you find a way to install the headers without having to drain the radiator?

I hate coolant with a passion, but my dog loves it!

 

I did not have to undo any coolant lines. There is a hard pipe on the right side of the engine that make the nut tightening process a little more fun but not worth removeing that is the only thing I could see some one undoing that would cause the need for coolant to be drained. This job took me 12 hours including two trips to the store (wrench1 time, broke a 14mm socket the other)and two stops for lunch and dinner. I did the installation on floor stand and a creeper. If I would not have screwed around for an hour before I decided to go buy the proper tool it would have saved me some time. But being stubren I pulled out every combination of socket, swivel and wrenches I had to tighten that damn nut. After I went to sears and bought the wrench I was done in ten minutes. The problem is that the lower center nut on both sides can only be attadked with a wrench ( I did start the nut with a 1/4 ratchet with a shallow socket but the socket botoms out after a few turns and the deepwell is too long) do to the bend of the header running directly behind the nut and stud. The left hand side I used and open end mac open end wrench because I had not purchased the ratcheting style as of then. But the right could not be turned with either a offset wrench, stantered wrench or a long wrench. Thats why I keep saying purchase a ratcheting wrench it save time. Sorry for being long winded.

 

I guess that means kissing good bye to using a Torque Wrench and just go by feel ... not uncommon. Lets hope they don't back out over time.

 

Oh yeah, one more thing, I used the oem nut because they are pinch heads. The DC sports nuts did not have this feature so I did not use them.

 

can you take a pic of the special wrench/ratchet...not sure what your talkin about but i want to make this as easy as possible...thanks for the info