Window Motor Repair (replace motor brushes?)
#61
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Are everyone with this problem driving 2003's?
The reason the motors are doing this is because the motors are designed by idiots.
The grease from the "corkscrew" spins up during usage and soaks the carbon brushes, saturating them with oil. This causes the brushes to become soft and prematurely wear down. I'm so pissed since I have to replace these obviously flawed motors.
Were these motors designed/fixed after 2003 ?
What I was probably going to do is get some electrical felt and make a gasket of sorts to fit on it to prevent the oil from reaching the brushes.
<- angry
The reason the motors are doing this is because the motors are designed by idiots.
The grease from the "corkscrew" spins up during usage and soaks the carbon brushes, saturating them with oil. This causes the brushes to become soft and prematurely wear down. I'm so pissed since I have to replace these obviously flawed motors.
Were these motors designed/fixed after 2003 ?
What I was probably going to do is get some electrical felt and make a gasket of sorts to fit on it to prevent the oil from reaching the brushes.
<- angry
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#62
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Originally Posted by james840a
Just FYI, you may want a friend to help hold the window inplace while you re-install the door panel to align the bolts on the track.
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Originally Posted by james840a
I did mine yesterday and worked great. The contact point were so dirty that it look like one peace. I attached couple pictures of it, The one is just after i used the toothpicks. The other one is after i cleaned it with rubbing alcohol, you can see the difference between them. So far mine is working great, (knocking on wood)
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If anyone has replaced the window motors, can they fill me in with the part numbers? I would like to get mine replaced, as mine make my windows really dirty in less than a week.
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I was driving home from work today and my drivers side window rolled 2/3 of the way down all by itself. I tried to roll it back up using the switch but nothing happened. As luck would have it, I was right by St Charles Nissan and I pulled into the service department. They diagnosed the problem in about 5 minutes and put in a new motor in another 30 minutes or so. The car is out of warranty but since I only have 12,000 miles, they called Nissan North America to see if they would share some of the cost. The end result is I got a new window motor for $50.00 installed. Not too bad. It now seems to be working perfectly.
Les
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hi,
my passenger window does not work. I can roll the windows down fine, but it does not go back up. Therefore, I do not think the motor is busted.
Could it be the switch is bad? thanks
my passenger window does not work. I can roll the windows down fine, but it does not go back up. Therefore, I do not think the motor is busted.
Could it be the switch is bad? thanks
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Many thanks to Intergrity and other guys who posted in this thread. I opened up my driver door yesterday and got the window working. Took me about 40 minutes for the whole thing. We'll see how this fix will hold up, but so far it's all good.
Thanks.
Thanks.
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Your welcome n666.
Well I've got good news and bad news. I did my passenger side door the other day. The good news is I took more pictures and I'll be posting them up soon. (I can't right now since I'm working) Anyway, the bad news is my passenger side worked three or four times and then it started f'ing up again. It'll go down, but not up and it'll only go down if the driver's side is not going down at the same time. Also, my driver's side is acting up again. I think I did a **** poor job of cleaning the contactors. People, if you do this repair I cannot stress enough the importance of thoroughly cleaning the contactors. Refer to James840a's post;
I cleaned them, but not well enough. Its such a pain to have to go through the whole process again. I think what I'm going to do is buy another set of motors and replace them. Once I have both the old motors out, I'm going to soak them in cleaner and then keep them around till the new ones fail.
Well I've got good news and bad news. I did my passenger side door the other day. The good news is I took more pictures and I'll be posting them up soon. (I can't right now since I'm working) Anyway, the bad news is my passenger side worked three or four times and then it started f'ing up again. It'll go down, but not up and it'll only go down if the driver's side is not going down at the same time. Also, my driver's side is acting up again. I think I did a **** poor job of cleaning the contactors. People, if you do this repair I cannot stress enough the importance of thoroughly cleaning the contactors. Refer to James840a's post;
Originally Posted by james840a
I did mine yesterday and worked great. The contact point were so dirty that it look like one peace. I attached couple pictures of it, The one is just after i used the toothpicks. The other one is after i cleaned it with rubbing alcohol, you can see the difference between them. So far mine is working great, (knocking on wood)
![](https://my350z.com/forum/attachments/maintenance-and-repair/115206d1154960534-window-motor-repair-replace-motor-brushes-img_0237.jpg)
![](https://my350z.com/forum/attachments/maintenance-and-repair/115207d1154960534-window-motor-repair-replace-motor-brushes-img_0239.jpg)
![](https://my350z.com/forum/attachments/maintenance-and-repair/115206d1154960534-window-motor-repair-replace-motor-brushes-img_0237.jpg)
![](https://my350z.com/forum/attachments/maintenance-and-repair/115207d1154960534-window-motor-repair-replace-motor-brushes-img_0239.jpg)
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GUYS, you're not reading this correctly.
The motors are designed BADLY. There is so much "dust" because the carbon brushes you see near the top of greased spindle are covered in OIL. The brushes soak up the oil and then start losing their form and essentially disintigrate. You can try fixing them by unsoldering the wires covered by the gel and getting a carbon brush shop to install new brushes. You'll then need some sort of electrical felt to block the oil from splashing the brushes again after you reinstall/re-solder the wires back into the brush holder.
HAve fun. :P
The motors are designed BADLY. There is so much "dust" because the carbon brushes you see near the top of greased spindle are covered in OIL. The brushes soak up the oil and then start losing their form and essentially disintigrate. You can try fixing them by unsoldering the wires covered by the gel and getting a carbon brush shop to install new brushes. You'll then need some sort of electrical felt to block the oil from splashing the brushes again after you reinstall/re-solder the wires back into the brush holder.
HAve fun. :P
#72
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Originally Posted by rythex
GUYS, you're not reading this correctly.
The motors are designed BADLY. There is so much "dust" because the carbon brushes you see near the top of greased spindle are covered in OIL. The brushes soak up the oil and then start losing their form and essentially disintigrate. You can try fixing them by unsoldering the wires covered by the gel and getting a carbon brush shop to install new brushes. You'll then need some sort of electrical felt to block the oil from splashing the brushes again after you reinstall/re-solder the wires back into the brush holder.
HAve fun. :P
The motors are designed BADLY. There is so much "dust" because the carbon brushes you see near the top of greased spindle are covered in OIL. The brushes soak up the oil and then start losing their form and essentially disintigrate. You can try fixing them by unsoldering the wires covered by the gel and getting a carbon brush shop to install new brushes. You'll then need some sort of electrical felt to block the oil from splashing the brushes again after you reinstall/re-solder the wires back into the brush holder.
HAve fun. :P
but unfortunately my window won't roll so maybe you're right....
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Originally Posted by rythex
GUYS, you're not reading this correctly.
The motors are designed BADLY. There is so much "dust" because the carbon brushes you see near the top of greased spindle are covered in OIL. The brushes soak up the oil and then start losing their form and essentially disintigrate. You can try fixing them by unsoldering the wires covered by the gel and getting a carbon brush shop to install new brushes. You'll then need some sort of electrical felt to block the oil from splashing the brushes again after you reinstall/re-solder the wires back into the brush holder.
HAve fun. :P
The motors are designed BADLY. There is so much "dust" because the carbon brushes you see near the top of greased spindle are covered in OIL. The brushes soak up the oil and then start losing their form and essentially disintigrate. You can try fixing them by unsoldering the wires covered by the gel and getting a carbon brush shop to install new brushes. You'll then need some sort of electrical felt to block the oil from splashing the brushes again after you reinstall/re-solder the wires back into the brush holder.
HAve fun. :P
You're probably right about the grease. However, I haven't had to redo my motor since I cleaned it almost a year ago. Maybe the excess grease has been exhausted.
As crappy as these motors are, I wouldn't be surprised if there is a variety of things that go wrong with them.
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Jeff
#75
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Thanks to this thread I just saved myself $500. That's what the dealer wanted to install a new window motor. I did the job myself in about an hour. One word of warning....don't forget about the third screw (not two as mentioned in the excellent picture thread) you have to take out before you can remove the outer door. It's located just under the rearview mirror.
#76
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Originally Posted by zzz350zzz
does anybody have to replace the switch? my windows won't go up. I do not know what to replace? the motor or the switch? thanks
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What is the motor brush? I removed the brass looking cover. I do not see where is the brush. I thouroughly cleaned all dust inside the motor. It still does not work.
Can you show what is the brush? Where do I need to specifically clean it.
thanks for you help
Can you show what is the brush? Where do I need to specifically clean it.
thanks for you help
#78
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Originally Posted by zzz350zzz
What is the motor brush? I removed the brass looking cover. I do not see where is the brush. I thouroughly cleaned all dust inside the motor. It still does not work.
Can you show what is the brush? Where do I need to specifically clean it.
thanks for you help
Can you show what is the brush? Where do I need to specifically clean it.
thanks for you help
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Originally Posted by zzz350zzz
What is the motor brush? I removed the brass looking cover. I do not see where is the brush. I thouroughly cleaned all dust inside the motor. It still does not work.
Can you show what is the brush? Where do I need to specifically clean it.
thanks for you help
Can you show what is the brush? Where do I need to specifically clean it.
thanks for you help
It may help to press in on these a few times and spray some contact cleaner in and around the holes the brushes fit inside. One of my brushes was jammed when I cleaned mine. I was able to loosen it up and get it working again.
--
Jeff
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I've taken my window motor apart a couple times now, first time I didn't take the commutator out. It worked for a while then the motor started to move slowly up and down unit the motor will no longer put the window up. At this point I took the motor apart again, went through all the steps, cleaned everything and the motor still operates the same. So I stated playing around with the motor without the window load. I think my motor has bit the dust. It gets really hot when you let it spin for 15 to 20 seconds and smells like its buring (I took it apart after this). I have found you can get the motor at autozone for $133.00. So thats my next step.
KJ
KJ