Nissan Touch Up Paint
Has anyone else used Nissan's Touch Up Paint?
The touch up paint color seems to be way off. It's much darker.
1) - Rear section top fender area - On a small scratch, can that be painted over or would the entire rear quarter panel has to be repainted?
2) - Bottom support of Nismo spoiler - Trying to ply out the rear Z emblem...the screw driver slipped and scratched the rear portion of the spoiler Aghhhhhhhh
The touch up paint color seems to be way off. It's much darker.
1) - Rear section top fender area - On a small scratch, can that be painted over or would the entire rear quarter panel has to be repainted?
2) - Bottom support of Nismo spoiler - Trying to ply out the rear Z emblem...the screw driver slipped and scratched the rear portion of the spoiler Aghhhhhhhh
Last edited by mchong75; Sep 28, 2005 at 11:59 AM.
This is just a shot in the dark, but I don't think the touch paint is dark, on the contrary, is your car that has faded a few shades. Sun and a few washes can and will do that to the Z. You can match it by polishing it a few times. At least that's what I was told at Maaco.
The hardest part of bodywork is matching the paint colors. Aside from fading, it's even possible (and not uncommon) to have slightly different colors in a batch of paint that was made one day versus a batch made the following day. I got lucky and found a guy with a great eye who matched perfectly and touched up some spots on my Silverstone for $150. Personally, I'd never try to do touchups myself.. I'd either live with the dings and scratches or get it done by someone who knows what they're doing.
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no matter how you apply the touch up it'll be a different color. Because silverstone is metallic the flakes all dried a certain way out of the factory. To even get close to the same as the old stuff you'd need know how they shot the paint (what angle, what pressure, etc etc.). Body shops are the best at shooting paint because they know how its shot from the factory, but even still if you look really closely the paint will be different (nothing dramatically but it might just be a tiny bit darker or ligther because the flakes dried diff). My silver accord has had its fenders repainted and though the shop did a really good job, in certain lights and angles, the color is just a hair off.
to make a long story short, I wouldn't use touch up unless it was in an unconspicuous place. Other wise, it'll stick out like a sore thumb.
to make a long story short, I wouldn't use touch up unless it was in an unconspicuous place. Other wise, it'll stick out like a sore thumb.
I just covered up a couple nicks on my Chrome Silver and the color is nearly dead on. Do you garage your car? Perhaps a lil fading could have occured. Im fortunate enough to have a garage at home and at work.
I can take a couple pix if anyone is interested.
I can take a couple pix if anyone is interested.
I like to see a pic. mchong75@aol.com
My Z is a chrome silver color, but the touch up paint almost looks like silverstone. The dealer swears it's a CS.........
My Z is a chrome silver color, but the touch up paint almost looks like silverstone. The dealer swears it's a CS.........
I always thought that you touch up with "light Layers". At different dried intervals. Not all in one day. That is exactly what I'm doing right now but I have Super Black.
I have 2 deep chips that I'm working on now..... with my 4th. layer.
I have 2 deep chips that I'm working on now..... with my 4th. layer.
I have the same problem with Daytona Blue. Too dark, and to make things worse, I have the touch up pen (by Nissan) that has paint on one end and clear coat on the other. Everytime I try to apply the clearcoat (even on dry touch up), it totally disolves the touch up paint and I am back to having almost no paint on the rock chip. Now the tip of the clearcoat pen is totally blue...
I use pikes peak white touch-up paint from Nissan:
1. Clean the area with Isopropyl alcohol.
2. Apply a base coat of white enamel appliance touch-up paint.
3. After drying, apply a coat of Nissan touch-up paint.
4. After drying, apply a coat of wax.
The match is not perfect, but acceptable.
1. Clean the area with Isopropyl alcohol.
2. Apply a base coat of white enamel appliance touch-up paint.
3. After drying, apply a coat of Nissan touch-up paint.
4. After drying, apply a coat of wax.
The match is not perfect, but acceptable.
Originally Posted by sluggoZ
I always thought that you touch up with "light Layers". At different dried intervals. Not all in one day. That is exactly what I'm doing right now but I have Super Black.
I have 2 deep chips that I'm working on now..... with my 4th. layer.
I have 2 deep chips that I'm working on now..... with my 4th. layer.
Originally Posted by davidv
I use pikes peak white touch-up paint from Nissan:
1. Clean the area with Isopropyl alcohol.
2. Apply a base coat of white enamel appliance touch-up paint.
3. After drying, apply a coat of Nissan touch-up paint.
4. After drying, apply a coat of wax.
The match is not perfect, but acceptable.
1. Clean the area with Isopropyl alcohol.
2. Apply a base coat of white enamel appliance touch-up paint.
3. After drying, apply a coat of Nissan touch-up paint.
4. After drying, apply a coat of wax.
The match is not perfect, but acceptable.
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has anyone do the steps of painting and then light sand it with 1000-2000grit wet/sand then use rubbing compound?
I saw a kit on TV two guys garage that had a touch up kit for small stone chips. It came with everything you need to make it disapper.
I saw a kit on TV two guys garage that had a touch up kit for small stone chips. It came with everything you need to make it disapper.
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