crank pulley removal
#1
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crank pulley removal
ok guys this sounds stupid and is a lil embarrasing but i can't get this damn crank pulley off for anything!!!i have an automatic 05 and i heated the bolt and used an impact and still cant get the little bastard to budge. i'm thinking about rigging a breaker bar to catch on my lift and just crank the motor over to break it loose?anyone see a problem w/ that?and what kinda a tranny fluid do these things take?thanks
#3
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There is a thread or two in the maintenance section that'll cover your tranny fluid question for you.
Regarding rigging a breaker bar and cranking the engine to loosen the pulley bolt, that is pretty much the way to do it on most cars, I don't see why the Z would be any different. Mine came off with an impact wrench, but the breaker bar was at the ready if needed.
Regarding rigging a breaker bar and cranking the engine to loosen the pulley bolt, that is pretty much the way to do it on most cars, I don't see why the Z would be any different. Mine came off with an impact wrench, but the breaker bar was at the ready if needed.
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well i just used my snap on impact rather than my friend's ingersoll rand and it popped it right out and the pulleys helped out alot. i would def recommend this mod honostly..i friend of mine that works in a perf shop said he would never use a breaker bar and turn the motor over b/c of the stress that puts on ur starter.
#6
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I am resurrecting this thread because it was helpful to me. I got the crank pulley bolt loose using the starter method many mentioned above. I actually turned the motor over and had consciously planned to turn the ignition back to off as soon as the motor turned over. just bumping it was not enough. It was seized.
Then getting the pulley off was fairly easy. I had to pry it off using a slotted screw driver. I first used a standard 5-6 inch and then when it got further away from the block, I used a longer 8-inch screwdriver. Torqued everything to spec, 32 ft-lbs on the crank bolt and 27 ft-lbs for the idlers.
Then getting the pulley off was fairly easy. I had to pry it off using a slotted screw driver. I first used a standard 5-6 inch and then when it got further away from the block, I used a longer 8-inch screwdriver. Torqued everything to spec, 32 ft-lbs on the crank bolt and 27 ft-lbs for the idlers.
#7
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RAWR RAISED FROM THE DEAD
Ok, I had an OBX Underdrive pulley on my car and couldn't get off with the car in gear and someone holding the brakes, or with the breakerbar/starter method so I got this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Lock-Up-Tool-Dirt-Bike-ATV-Motorcycle-2-Stroke-/270694010097?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f069eccf1&vxp=mtr
It's an engine lockup tool that threads where the spark plug goes(fit a 14mm 6pt on the end and hand tighten.
I used a new craftsman 1/2 ratchet and a 2' bar attached to it. The ratched switched itself over twice from the torque I was exerting on it, but the third time the bolt came loose. So for an $11 tool to take off crank pulleys for any car I think it's worth it.
Ok, I had an OBX Underdrive pulley on my car and couldn't get off with the car in gear and someone holding the brakes, or with the breakerbar/starter method so I got this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Lock-Up-Tool-Dirt-Bike-ATV-Motorcycle-2-Stroke-/270694010097?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f069eccf1&vxp=mtr
It's an engine lockup tool that threads where the spark plug goes(fit a 14mm 6pt on the end and hand tighten.
I used a new craftsman 1/2 ratchet and a 2' bar attached to it. The ratched switched itself over twice from the torque I was exerting on it, but the third time the bolt came loose. So for an $11 tool to take off crank pulleys for any car I think it's worth it.
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#10
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Help Please. Crankshaft bolt seized
Resurrecting an old thread.....I have a 6 speed manual transmission with an unorthodox undersized crankshaft pulley. I've been trying to remove this bolt for two days now. I've soaked the bolt with PB Blaster, placed the transmission in 6th gear, and chocked the brakes down from inside the car. The crankshaft moves a bit w
I've tried the following already:
1. Starter method - no luck
2. Impact wrench - 3/4" Drive - no luck
3. Breaker bar with 3.5' cheater bar- the crankshaft itself seems to like it still wants to spin when I try to break the bolt loose.
4. Torque Multiplier - 1" drive - this one seem to work but still no luck. same as #3 above.
Should I try putting the transmission in 5th gear? Does anyone have any recommendations. lt's so frustrating.
I've tried the following already:
1. Starter method - no luck
2. Impact wrench - 3/4" Drive - no luck
3. Breaker bar with 3.5' cheater bar- the crankshaft itself seems to like it still wants to spin when I try to break the bolt loose.
4. Torque Multiplier - 1" drive - this one seem to work but still no luck. same as #3 above.
Should I try putting the transmission in 5th gear? Does anyone have any recommendations. lt's so frustrating.
#11
hatersgonnahate
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Unorthodox is one crappy pulley...your keyway is probably buggared up.
May require one of those long bars to lock the tranny (in gear on a lift wont be enough) and HUGE breaker bar with a jack handle on it and lots of hope.
May require one of those long bars to lock the tranny (in gear on a lift wont be enough) and HUGE breaker bar with a jack handle on it and lots of hope.
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H.C.I.C. (01-01-2016)
#12
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MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Resurrecting an old thread.....I have a 6 speed manual transmission with an unorthodox undersized crankshaft pulley. I've been trying to remove this bolt for two days now. I've soaked the bolt with PB Blaster, placed the transmission in 6th gear, and chocked the brakes down from inside the car. The crankshaft moves a bit w
I've tried the following already:
1. Starter method - no luck
2. Impact wrench - 3/4" Drive - no luck
3. Breaker bar with 3.5' cheater bar- the crankshaft itself seems to like it still wants to spin when I try to break the bolt loose.
4. Torque Multiplier - 1" drive - this one seem to work but still no luck. same as #3 above.
Should I try putting the transmission in 5th gear? Does anyone have any recommendations. lt's so frustrating.
I've tried the following already:
1. Starter method - no luck
2. Impact wrench - 3/4" Drive - no luck
3. Breaker bar with 3.5' cheater bar- the crankshaft itself seems to like it still wants to spin when I try to break the bolt loose.
4. Torque Multiplier - 1" drive - this one seem to work but still no luck. same as #3 above.
Should I try putting the transmission in 5th gear? Does anyone have any recommendations. lt's so frustrating.
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H.C.I.C. (01-01-2016)
#16
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Pity the starter motor is so hard to get at. The right way to do this is to remove the starter and lock the ring gear with the right tool or with a large flat blade screwdriver between the teeth. I made a tool from 3/8" x 1" mild steel bar that bolted onto one of the starter bolt holes when I had my Skyline. Worked like a charm.
#18
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Although, I didn't mention it on previous posts, I've already tried a chain wrench to keep the pulley from moving, but it scratched up the pulley a bit, so I stopped before it got any worse. If I can't get the bolt out, then I would have to leave the pulley on. I don't want to mess up the pulley.
Right now, I'm worried that the key inside is already messed up, so using the rope method would also be useless correct? Yes, the rope method prevents the engine from spinning, but not with a broken key in the Crankshaft pulley.
I'm going to try again this weekend, but I'm still waiting on the part to come in that I mentioned from Post 13. Thanks for the responses.....will keep you guys updated.
Right now, I'm worried that the key inside is already messed up, so using the rope method would also be useless correct? Yes, the rope method prevents the engine from spinning, but not with a broken key in the Crankshaft pulley.
I'm going to try again this weekend, but I'm still waiting on the part to come in that I mentioned from Post 13. Thanks for the responses.....will keep you guys updated.
#20
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Also that tool you posted has to hold a lot of torque. Not sure how much force those adapters can take before bending.
I said previously not to use the tool I purchased, not because it didn't' work, but because the white part broke off inside my head. I ended up getting it out with the combination of a blow gun and a vacuum attachment I had to rig up to fit in the spark plug hole.
I said previously not to use the tool I purchased, not because it didn't' work, but because the white part broke off inside my head. I ended up getting it out with the combination of a blow gun and a vacuum attachment I had to rig up to fit in the spark plug hole.
Last edited by iideadeyeii; 01-05-2016 at 08:30 AM.
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