this was my post # 313 so to this day i have no idea what fixed my car.... could be oil, flash, or the oil catch can.... or all 3 !!!
"
i was absolutely sure that the flash fixed my problem.... until i drained mobil 1 and put back motul 10w40. as soon as i did that problem came back. i then drained 10w40 ( $$$ ) and replaced it with also motul but 5w30 - and guess what ? no more sputtering....

so would someone explain this to me ?

also, if you look on g37 forums, you will find that nissan made and patented an ester based oil that they recommend to use in vvel engines to fix the problem that we are having. WTF !~

http://forums.g37driver.com/zerothread/369083

"

 

okay maybe this might help.I had the Berk HFCs installed and my car would sputter at low rpm @ wot. I have a set of stillen intakes and noticed that the MAF was not positioned in the original way. The right side was facing upward. So I repositioned them and drove the car for a while and the sputtering is gone Hope this helps.

 

My ITALIAN 350z Hr 2007 have a similar problem, between 1500-2000 RPM.

I put Motul Chrono V300 10W40.

Problem started after 13000 Km.

 

^ i say it's the oil. my car did not like the 10w40...

it is better with the same motul v300 but 5w30...

 

I hate to repeat myself many times.. but issues I had BEFORE fixing the car sputtering:
one of the EGR hoses was loose (mine was the driver side going into the intake manifold after the air filter)
than.. can't explain that.. I drove the $hit out of the car on a race track and the sputtering was gone... for good. now I'm at around 30K miles. and no sputtering AT ALL.

and about the oil.
I used:
mobil 1 0w30, 0w40, 15w50
castrol 5w50

and NO issues with any of those (except that the 15w50 feels like mud in the engine if isn't warm enough in the morning.. 70F or so)

drive the $hit out of the car doesn't mean 1 run to 120 on the freeway.. means 20 good minutes hitting close to the rev limiter all the time.

 

My problem started after 15000 KM Nissan check, that involved the dual air filter change.

How can i check if also i have same egr problem?

Some photos)

 

bump...haha. maybe someday...

 

Hate to thread jack, but since my problem happens on startup i figured i'd ask it here as well. When i start up on some occasions the rpms will drop really low to around 400 or 500 rpm's where it seems like it would stall, then picks itself up to normal. all i have is an exhaust but i don't think thats the problem, or is this even a problem at all?

 

almost positive it's not related.
are you within your warrenty? I'd take it to dealership if you can.

 

it has been almost two years since this tread opened..... has anyone found the solution yet?
i have same problem but when it "sputtering" i just give a little bit more of gas... just to avoid the problem....

 

^ no. the car takes a few minutes to warm-up and it's all good after that.

it is what it is. i can live with it. i make ~100hp per liter of displacement and i learned to deal with that little problem.

and one more thing. i know for sure that if i use 300v 5w30 it does not do it and if i use 300v 10w40 it sputters like crazy.

 

well , I never bothered to read this thread until now , because i didnt had any problem .

My Z started to do that shortly after an oil change for Motul 300v 10-40 , I use to always have the Castrol Syntec 5-30

my car has 48 000 kms and its been like that for the last 3000km , its getting quite annoying ,,

At first I thought it could be air in the system ( i have an engine oil cooler)
but it never went away ,,, after reading most of this thread I really starting to wonder what is causing it.

 

go back to 5w30 300v

 

BUUMMPPPPERR CARS.

Wow just took about an hour to go through all 18 pages and im uber frustrated. Same issue as everyone else, made a another thread recently about the problem (https://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr/4606...rtup-help.html .... i know double post i suck at searching) and hopefully this VVT solenoid business does the trick.

Its funny that this thread is from 07 and everyone has tried what i've tried in the last 6 months and still nothing. Anything from putting anti-moisture solutions in the gas tank to getting owned at the dealership, been there done that.

Tac I didn't really pay attention to what you said about the reflash on my thread but now i see what you meant.... With the ecu flash AND using 5w-30 how often does the bucking occur?

(Vid's FTW)
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hahaha.. moar F1 VQ vids, I want to see some WOT f1 vq runs .. : P

 

Wooooaahhhh this will come soon!

 

I switched back to 5W30 from 10W40 and probelm fixed 100% like Tac-M said.

 

I feel like there are a few different "sputtering" issues that people are mixing together in this thread. You are the first person that i can positively verify that has the exact same problem as me. See page 16 for my vid. My video posted is after the initial repeated "surge" as you describe it in your thread. So in mine, you only see the 1 sputter, and then the motor will keep reving smooth until you let off.

Dunno if you notice, but even after the surge and sputtering, the car will still drive like **** for about the next 10-15 minutes. Everytime i shift, i can feel 1 surge in the throttle and it doesn't go away until the motor has been significantly warmed up. Good luck. You can see from this thread i've tried to tackle many dealerships.
and a change of oil has never solved my problem. I've tried many times of oils, and many types of weights. I even went to regular conventional oil, and still have the problem.

 

i encourage everyone to watch bapestah's video entirely, and verify if this was indeed the sputtering that you all experience, including the part where it "surges".

 

When i saw your vid i knew exactly what was going on because it happens to me also (during the 10 mins after the bucking you can notice a slight mini surge before 2000rpms)

Have you looked into anything related to the VVT Solenoids? I've been reading the oil galley's of the HR are extremely small and fragile, maybe cold oil isn't getting through them completely due to it's thickness, or because the passageways are dirty, and thus retarding cam timing before getting to a warm operating temp....

Btw, have you been driving the past 2 years w. the issue?