No news aren't good news in this case...

 

After a day of autox with about 20 runs, my sputtering is almost gone. I remember someone else having the same experience after a track day. Perhaps the Z just needs to clear its throat?

 

any update ? is it almost gone for good ? ? ?

 

No it's not gone for good but I can live with it. Just a couple of mild sputtering, unlike the 5 whiplashes in a roll that I used to have.

 

Has anybody else got the same experience with the Castrol Edge Sport 0w40 or with Motul X-Max 0w40 and got no sputtering even after 1000miles (when it ususally returns after the oil change)?

 

I use Edge Sport but the 10W-60, I live in Dubai and it gets pretty hot over here so its not really a "cold start" when i warm up the engine. I warm it up for about 5mins and soon as i leave the parking area and accelerate slowly...sputtering! I used to use Motul 8100 x-cess and never had this issue. Had to switch because Motul became harder and harder to find here. Funny since this is supposed to be an oil rich country

 

welcome to the sputtering club ! !

 

I read the first 18 pages, then skimmed to here in order to get an update.

From what i've read, and from the things i've seen you guys try and get semi positive results from, i'm going to say it's possible blow-by.

A catch-can (decent chambered one) is worth trying. I had similar crappy running from a mustang and preventing the oil re-entering through the PCV system helped a lot.

You guys may well have a faulty PCV valve (didn't see if you'd changed it) but more specifically, the catch-cans would sort out the excess oil moving through. Different oils, 'weights' and types will affect the car differently.
Different types of running, creating different amounts of vacuum will change it, hence some of the taking it for a blast comments etc.

Anyway, worth doing i feel, a decent chambered catch can can be had for about $60-70.

 

hmm . . i highly doubt its blowby

I mean HRs hardly burn any oil

It has been established (imho) that this issue is linked to the VCT on these engines, which in turn is oil pressure controlled. So yes it is related to oil weights.

But you can feel that some kind of timing retarding is going on when the sputtering is happening (electronic) . . non -mechanical (unlike blow by) . . like a 2nd traction control of sorts

Im kinda a newb myself . . . more experienced guys on the issue . . please feel free to jump in

 

The sound on the vidoes does indeed sound like ignition cut, the same i hear/feel when the VDC cuts in on mine.

Has anyone tried anything like Auto-RX? a long term oil cleaner? or even running seafoam in the oil for a few hundred miles before the change?

I had very good results from Blackstone labs after running Penzoil Platinum 5w30 if anyone wants to try that?
I also noted that M1 was noisy in my old Mustang, after a few hundred miles, it would cause lifter tick, PP fixed that.

 

yeah . . just used my first can of Motul Engine clean . . and put in some amsoil 5w30

I do see a NOTICEABLE difference in the sputtering (there is less sputter)

The duration of sputter has gone down considerably

 

Interesting, do you check the level on flat ground? or just measure 5qts in and call it a day?

 

well i understand its 5 . some qts for oil+filter change so . . i remove drain plug and let oil drip for an hour (up on jack stands) . . put in new filter + 5 qts . . call it a day

 

Hmm, well, shouldn't be out, but based on the info you guys have so far, i'd be very tempted to make sure the oil level is very specific.

 

I have a 2006 350Z. It has approximately 76,000 miles on it. I noticed a small rough idle and it progressively got worse. It will randomely throw a P0301 misfire code. It only idles rough before the engine warms up to normal operating temp. Even after the rough idle, it runs perfect when I'm actually on the gas and accelerating.

This is the data it pulled:
Fuel Sys1: CL
Fuel Sys2: CL
Calc Load: 18.8%
ECT: 84ºC
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1: -2.3%
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1: 0.0%
STFT Bank 2: -4.7%
LTFT Bank 2: 0.0%
Eng RPM: 1175
Veh Speed: 56 km/h
TPS: 3.5%

I've replaced the following:
- Spark Plugs with NGKs
- Coil on Cyl 1
- Bank 1 Cam position sensor
- Crank position sensor
- Mass Air Flow sensor
- Check the intake manifold for leaks.
- Checked for vacuum leaks.
- Done many idle air relearn procedures.

I have no idea what else to check or do. Any ideas? Could it be a fuel pump just going bad? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

 

Do a compression test on all cylinders and a leak down on #1. Fuel pump would affect all cylinders.

 

Sure you check *everywhere* for vacuum leaks? can only do whilst cold, based on your description, so harder to check thoroughly.

 

I figured ill share my experience with this issue. Some background, i have an 07 z with about 45k on it.Ive owned it for over 2 years at the time it had 14k on it. Since then i have installed berk high flows and stillen gen 2 intakes. I've used mobile 0w 40 for about 5 months and ive noticed it will only stutter on warmer days. Since the weather in new york has been 80 and up for the past few months the problem has gotten worse (happeneds everytime i cold started it). I took the car to about 5 different dealers after finding a tsb on the problem, none could replicate the problem. I decided to switch back to mobile 5w30 with a mobile filter (although i prefer nissans) and for a few weeks the problem has since disappeared. Im not saying the problem is fixed but for now the cars been driving like a dream just a heads up.

 

I JUST started to experience this while ideling in the garage this morning...I've got an '03 Touring. Going to try replacing the air filter first and see what happens. Vacuumed it with my shop vac, and it seems to be a bit better.

 

# 3 cynlinder misfire, #3 coil inoperable, replaced, working like new.