hello all, having a problem with my windows and looking for some insight. everything works fine when the ignition is on, but as soon as I turn off the ignition, both my windows roll down all the way. Did not find any fuse problems, then I disconnected the switches and the windows stayed up. As soon as I plugged them back in, both windows rolled down once again. Anyone experienced this, or know what I can try next? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks again!

 

do you have an aftermarket alarm?

 

if your keyfob has a short in it, this could be rolling it down, happened with mine, the unlock button had a short.

 

tried the key fob bit too. took the batteries out, and still the problem. don't have the aftermarket alarm yet, so still looking for clues

 

lol for a sec there i thought u were refferin to microsoft windows..

I had the Mac FTW thing goin...

oh well

MAC FTW !!

 

anyone?????

 

I don't have the ultimate answer for you but have looked into this problem extensively and posted what I found on another thread. I think it's symptom of a BCM problem that you really can only "fix" by diagnosing and likely replacing the BCM once you eliminate key fob issues, etc.

My problem was a little different - windows rolled down when I was away from the car, that I traced to a messed up key fob.

The ignition issue is linked through the BCM, sure of that, because the CONSULT settings determine how long you have power after you turn off the key to windows, etc.

You might have inadvertently changed some settings, too - but again, I've never found a way to read the BCM outside CONSULT.



see: https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance-and-repair/319273-new-window-problem.html

this problem isn't limited to Z's and G's, either:
http://x.infinitihelp.com/forum/show...t=windows+down

 

Auto electricity shop time, dude!---NOT the stealership!!!

 

I haven't found anyone else with CONSULT II capabilities who can diagnose the BCM issue, that's the ONLY reason I say "dealer". Unlike the ECU, it's not an open interface and has a martian-standard jack where you plug in.

I'd love to be able to change BCM settings like disable the windows down from the fob, if you have any info in this area, much appreciated.

I despise taking my car to the dealer, other than for recalls or completely proprietary stuff like a malfunction in the VDC/TCS/ABS/EBD system (broken wire to the rear inside an inch thick bundle, CONSULT at least diagnosed that).

I took it there once when new for a "check" and they tried to charge me $55 for an oil change. I refused to pay, told them I would never bring the car back for any work (I didn't authorize it, it was buried in the "new vehicle checkup").

Everything else I either do myself, or if I lack equipment (e.g. alignment) or expertise, goes to my local tuner shop.

 

I came to my car today and the windows were down and the doors were locked...I left the car with them up and then locked the car with the Key FOB. Came back a couple hrs and the windows are both down. I walked over to the car and checked the door locks and the drivers side door was locked...both windows full down.

After checking the manual it says if you hold down the unlock button you can roll down the windows. OK i tried it and yes it did work. The problem I'm thinking about is that I would have had to PUSH the unlock button long enough in my pocket and bring the windows down then hit the LOCK button...because the doors were locked for sure.

My Fiends Civic used to roll the windows down on its own until he brought it in to the dealer and something was changed.

Has anyone ever heard of this on a 350Z before? It could have been me accidentally pushing the FOB buttons but man its kinda a stretch...I really dont want this to happen again...the driveway was bad on a sunny day...raining or in a parking lot would be brutal!!!

I just posted this on the general forum before I read this thread...

 

Read the thread I linked to above - mine turned out to be a key FOB problem, and you can have that disabled via CONSULT but the dealer is the only place so far I've found to do that. I wanted to set PWR DOWN SET to off, I don't need the remote window drop. I don't want to pay someone $100-200 to set that for me however.

You're lucky - it was Winter, rained lightly all night on mine, windows down, then froze the next morning. Took days to get all the moisture out of the car, fortunately the leather seems no worse for it.

This happened on my G Coupe but the BCM works the same, FOB's work the same, etc. A Nissan Tech suggested I check the key fob and pull its battery.

One of my key fob's did have the wrong battery, corrosion, and mostly likely was shorting out. First I took the batteries out for a month or so, then only used the clean one with battery after that. Then I recently cleaned up the other one, put the right battery in, it's OK.

The BCM is too damn fussy IMHO, and the other problems like windows power down on shutdown are not key related, that's the BCM, or other changes like AM alarms screwing up its functions.

If it happens again, I'd bite the bullet, get the diagnosis at the dealer, but be prepared to replace the BCM. Better than ruining the interior of a $30k plus car IMHO.

 

SteveZ Thanks for the info...I will definatley keep an eye on this to see if it happens again. Another post got me an answer that if I had unlocked the doors but didnt open them that they would in fact lock themselves after a min. So I tried it and it did re-lock. So I'm thinking that I did hit the unlock button for a few secs then the doors relocked on me. But reading all the window prob posts is pretty scary...

 

That's true, if you unlock the doors, but do not open them, AUTO LOCK SET default is after 5 minutes they re-lock themselves. That can be changed to off or 3 minutes, or OFF.

The window problems are scary, you park your car in a lot, walk away and the windows roll down on their own, makes me thing 2x about what I leave in the car even in a "safe" place. I lock my radar detector in the glove box now. Was driving on the highway the other night and rolled the window down briefly, auto roll down, it stopped halfway and stuck there. I pulled off the hwy after a few minutes and was able to raise it after restarting the car. Glad it wasn't raining or too cold out!

I figure sooner or later given these window issues I'll be ending up with a new BCM, and after 4 years and 46k miles, I'm out of the comprehensive warranty, so I would definitely have to pay for it. There are also problems with the window motor regulator, which can be reset by removing the door panel - there's a TSB on that. Otherwise no Power Window TSB's on rolling down, etc that I can find.

 

Your BCM has to relearn the auto up/down for your windows. I had this problem and a friend of my from the dealership fixed it in like 10 min. He took both door panels off, and did something with the switches and the motor and it worked great after that. If someone on here who is a tech could chime in, I bet he could talk you though it.

 

Probably reset the window regulators by the motor which I think tells the window motor essentially where the window is w/re to up or down. FSM mentions removing the door panels and resetting the regulators when there's a problem with the windows not opening or closing "correctly", whatever that means - sort of a catch all.

Was your problem that the windows went down when you turned off the key, or that the windows went down when the car was off, or something else? There seems to be about 3-4 variations on this problem I've heard so far.

Thx for the info.

 

This is what I was talking about, it re-learns the regulator what "up" and "down" mean by pulling the door panel and doing the following:

SETTING AFTER INSTALLATION
Setting of Limit Switch

If any of the following work has been done, set the limit switch (integrated in the motor).

Removal and installation of the regulator.

Removal and installation of the motor from the regulator.

Operate the regulators as a unit.

Removal and installation of the glass.

Resetting
After installing each component to the vehicle, follow the steps below.
1. Raise the glass to the top position.
2. While pressing and holding the reset switch, lower the glass to
the bottom position.
3. Release the reset switch, and check the reset switch returns to
the original position, and then raise the glass to the top position.

CAUTION:
Do not operate the glass automatically to raise the glass to
the top position.

Work pushing the door switch at the top position on when
working because the partial down mechanism has adhered.

 

Did you ever get this fixed? It could be possible that your key cylinder "unlock" wire is shorted out - that would cause the windows to drop whenever the ignition is off.

 

Yes, that could happen. The ignition is intimately wired into the BCM, it's hard to say, but IMHO, yes.

I am in the camp of windows not rolling down unrelated to the ignition, I had the other problem, windows roll down much later all by themselves. Pretty sure that was a key fob issue, corrosion inside one and the wrong battery. Took out its battery and never happened since (8 months about now).

Now I am getting another window problem, driver's side window doesn't roll up on auto, have to hit the switch more than once to get it to roll up. Going to try the reset limits procedure, if that doesn't cure it, reset the window motor regulator, and if still doesn't work, then I'm out of ideas.

It goes up about 1/3 to 1/2, then just stops. The motor sounds sick right before it stops. Of course I am out of bumper to bumper warranty by 6 months, so if I have to get it fixed I'm hosed.

 

Btw I've seen this happen shortly after installation of AM vehicle alarms and immobilizers, too, where I am guessing by nature the power lead to the ignition has to be tapped into to work. If the work wasn't done well, the owner was left with an intermittent short and by coincidence (?) they started having the "windows roll down when I turn off the car problem".

Tends to support the answer to your question as "yes".