Methane

iTrader: (1)

Ok guys I have a problem with my windows that im sure no one here has had before ( i searched, but nothing about it) . Basically everytime i pull my keys out of my ignition and open my door to get out of the car while my windows are up, the windows will automatically roll down by themselves. The only way they will stay up is if i keep my keys in the ignition and disconnect the plug from the window switch buttons in the drivers side door and then i can pull my keys out without the windows rolling down. Anyone have this problem or know how to diagnose it? Id rather fix it myself then go into the stealership, any help is appreciated. thanks

nik

JonsilvZ

Mine was doing the same thing. Eventually the motor stopped working in the closed position. I need a new motor out of my pocket since warranty expired. The pass side was replaced under warranty. POS motors!

Methane

iTrader: (1)

lol whats up witch the shitty windows in these cars, ITS THE 21ST CENTURY NISSAN , GET WITH THE PLAN!! lol, im just gonna take it into the dealer next week.

Tim@WestCovinaNissan

Try taking the battery out of your key fob and see if it stops doing it. If it does you have a short in your remote. If not then....don't know.

Billhyco

iTrader: (14)

its not just nissan, google Jeep Liberty window problems, by far worse then any nissan z window problem.

JonsilvZ

We could understand that because its a Dodge.

Methane

iTrader: (1)

cool im gonna try that and report back here

tienedZ

iTrader: (1)

This is the exact problem i am having. I just replaced an Autozone motor to my driver's door, and the problem still persist. WTF? are there any circuit breaker/fuse, or an reseting mechanism to fix this.????

tienedZ

iTrader: (1)

nobody?

SteveZ

iTrader: (3)

2 weekends ago, my windows rolled themselves down sometime during the day when I wasn't around. Then of course we had rain, also while I wasn't around, and the car was in the driveway at the time. Not too much rain, but it got the seats good and wet and puddles on the winter mats. Both remotes were in the house at the time, in range, but no one around to touch them. Windows were def up when I left the car the night before, and that morning still up.

Came home to a very wet car. Cleaned it up as well as I could, treated the leather, went away for a week out of state. Then this morning the temp was 10 deg out and had ice from the leftover moisture all over the inside of windows and semi-frozen leather seats. Now I'm paranoid to park it outside at all away from home, not having any idea why it did this. There's more **** wrong with the interior and controls on this car than anything else I've owned - all of it under warranty until a month ago, of course.

Only coincidence was I also had a short in a wire going back to the rear brake lights 4 days prior, broken wire that popped the fuse and disabled the TCS/VDC. Normally could care less, but not when I was away from home and of course driving on snow and ice - slip, spin... No ABS, no brake lights, no TCS, no VDC...not good when you're driving on ice even with good snows.

$250 later dealer traced the broken wire to the harness that goes to the rear, specifically broken under the pass door panel. Never thought to connect it to the windows as a possibility, both of those problems really **** me off - so much for legendary Nissan reliability.

I'll try pulling the batteries out of the remotes, if it happens again I'll have to see if it's the remote doing it, or something else. Otherwise I have to go back to the dealer and have it checked out, bend over and open wallet yet again.

SteveZ

iTrader: (3)

Well, let's see - about the same time I bought my G, bought a new 2003 Dodge RAM HEMI 1500 Quad Cab SLT. Other than changing the oil/filter, and putting in a K&N drop-in, I have spent zero unexpected money in 24,000 miles/4 years on my truck. All the controls work. Nothing broken, no added cost outside one flat tire.

I have not spent over $3000+ in repair work as I have had to on my '04 G, most of it in the last year - besides what you'd expect, add clutch, FW, brake rotors and pads, damn mice invasion ($800 labor to tear apart the dash and clean out all their literal **** & ****), broken shift lever bolt where it attached to the fork inside the trans (non-warranty), failed solenoids in the dash vents so lost heat/cool on pass side only, this brake ****, not to mention numerous warranty items (gas tank recall, window streaks, the usual).

Oh, and the truck windows work flawlessly, they're never covered with grease and don't roll themselves down. Not bad for a brand new first year model of the RAM that I paid maybe $27k on a MSRP of $33.5k. I wouldn't blanket diss Dodge, not after all the problems I had with my Z's tires and a bunch of other TSB's, add the G expense on top of that.

Maybe I should "understand that" because it's a modern NISSAN? I have 2 other 1990's vintage Nissans which have been dead reliable and trouble-free. Wish I could same the same for these two.

Tim@WestCovinaNissan

Like I stated above...you have a remote problem. Even if no one is there to touch them, if there is a short inside one of the remotes it can trigger one of the buttons (unlock button) and cause the windows to go down. Remove the batteries and I guarantee it will fix it.

SteveZ

iTrader: (3)

Remove and not use? Or remove and replace? Removing the batteries isn't a really attractive option considering it makes the remote useless, I'm back to using keys only on a car w/o a key lock or release on the trunk, or passenger side door.

Thanks in advance.

Tim@WestCovinaNissan

If you absolutely have to use them then take the battery out of one of the remotes and use the other one as normal. If the problem continues take the battery out of the one that still has it in and go from there. Simply not using them will not solve anything. There is a short in the circuit board inside the remote that causes one of the buttons (unlock) to activate by itself. If you follow what I said by taking one battery out and it still has a problem then you have identified the remote that is bad. Get it replaced accordingly. There are rare instances where both are bad but that is rare. Normally some water or other liquid gets into the remote causing it to go bad.

SteveZ

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, seems like obvious-man question in hindsight. I'll just put one away w/o a battery, see if I have any issues, then swap.

Probably one of them went through the wash at some point. I'll have to check them inside and see if there is any corrosion, too.

Weird thing is my neighbor tells me she heard the alarm go off, too - panic button. I live so far away from people I doubt anyone was screwing with the car, my only close neighbors are retired and driveway has high visibility to them.

Thanks again!

tienedZ

iTrader: (1)

Hey Steve can you give us an update on this ordeal?

SteveZ

iTrader: (3)

So far so good. I took the advice and popped the key fobs, found one was corroded a good bit, took out its battery. The other one had a CR2032 in it, so I took it out, too.

Waited and used the keys without any battery for good part of a week, got a battery, now using the clean key fob no issues to date. Mine says use CR2025, not sure of the difference, but I changed it.

I'm leaning toward thinking that using the corroded one and one with an incorrect battery may have been the cause. The corroded one may have gone through the wash or something, I have no idea how it got that way.

HTH

tienedZ

iTrader: (1)

I dont have my Z with me right now, so i can do what Tim says in removing the battery to remedy the window problem. But I did check the circuitry board of the key fob. Everything looks functional no rust, and plus, the remote is less than a year old. So I think my remote has nothing to do with the windows, but again, I have to actual test it out when I go home today.

I still remembered how the problem started... I came to a stop abruptly, then turned my car off. The next thing I know, both of the windows came down simultaneously, and it's never been the same since that day. . Please help!

SteveZ

iTrader: (3)

1) What happens if you push the lock windows switch on the door? Just curious because it should not be overriden by the fob signal; if it is overidden by turning off the car, I think short somewhere.

2) It's still possible the fob has a short, and if you remove the battery and the windows still come down, you know it has nothing to do with the fob and more likely some short or a broken wire is allowing the shutdown of the ignition circuit to also lower the windows. Could be a wire or another hot lead of any kind attached to ignition circuit is shorting the windows circuit.

If that sounds far-fetched, I just had VDC/TCS/ABS total failure a few weeks back, I'm thinking great, out of warranty, I'm screwed. Instead, the toasted fuse for the brake lights and the trace of that harness showed a broken wire that powers the spoiler light were causing the system to "fail". The harness wire gauge was very small and had just cracked one wire in a bundle going from front to back, broken near the passenger seat in the door sill.

Kind of pissed me off that essentially a brake light out (due to short) could take out the ABS, VDC, TCS - all of those should work even if the rear center brake light was out, but the short caused the fuse to fail like it should. Normally I wouldn't have cared but there was snow and ice out, one of the few places I find the VDC/TCS very useful.

Try it w/o the battery. If it still happens, then you know it's related to something in the car, not a key fob problem. In my case I was sure it was the opposite because the car was just sitting, the windows rolled themselves down when the car had not be even driven that day. Both fobs were within range inside the house, I am pretty sure the "wash-n-wash" my leather got from rain was courtesy of a key fob issue.

I bet yours is connected to turning the car off, battery or not, if it happens consistently. Probably an intermittent short somewhere that will have to be traced w/CONSULT if the key fob isn't involved.

I'm just happy because at least I don't have to worry about the interior taking another bath, then freezing after I cleaned up the worst of it, what a freakin' mess that was.

HTH!

tienedZ

iTrader: (1)

I'll definitely follow your steps to try to pinpoint the problem when I get to my car. Reading your reply, I am certain that it's related something within the car itself. Just 1 quick question, if there is a faulty wire, where/how should I go about to find that wire.

P.S. I appreciate you for sharing this info with us.