SuperBlack350z

iTrader: (59)

the harness clip on the knock sensor that you cant see will not just come up like a regular press clip. you will need a screw driver to pop the harness out of a little metal slot. after that, then you can press the plastic harness clip out like normal. Hard to describe but does that make sense?

__jb

iTrader: (3)

Well, I have a plan.

My car is currently in my garage at home with the engine apart.

I'm going to cut off the engine side the existing cable that's jammed between the engine and bell housing. I'll install Matt's new cable and leave the back hanging out of the block. After I put the motor back together, I'll drive it down to Lokey Infiniti where Christian (mechanic) will loosen the transmission and get the rest of my old cable out. He can hook up the outside end of Matt's cable while my car is on the lift.

That's my plan anyway...

__jb

iTrader: (3)

You mean the harness clip on the end of the cable that hooks into the main harness, right?

So far I haven't been able to find/see that connector. I kind of have all the injector rails and stuff piled up in that area. Since we are going to have to put my car on a lift to remove the piece of cable that's jammed between the engine and transmission, we'll just hook up the new cable while the car is on the lift. I don't think it will hurt the knock sensor to drive it for a few miles unconnected.

Were you able to connect that end of the cable from the top of the car? I would like to unplug the old cable before I cut it.

SuperBlack350z

iTrader: (59)

yup, was able to take off the connect from the top of the engine. it's almost impossible to see but if you feel with your fingers, you will know what i'm talking about.

yeah, the baby blue harness i believe it was. It is a clip harness but that clip is held on by a slip on connecter that you have to use a flat head screwdriver to push the slot and then the connecter will slide off. then from there, you take off the normal harness.

__jb

iTrader: (3)

There's the end of the story! The wiring harness was definitely smashed between the engine and transmission. That's the old one in the picture above. I cleared the P0327 with Cipher and it has not come back. End of this project, I hope! Now on to some stuff that's more fun...

Thanks to everyone for the help in this project. It took more time than I was expecting, but I learned a lot along the way. I'll leave this thread open in case someone else has knock sensor issues some day.

Special thanks to Matt (Zu L8r) for giving me his spare knock sensor and cable. It is in it's new home inside my engine as we speak!

ZU L8R

iTrader: (84)

Good to hear!!

peptidbond

iTrader: (2)

So, I replaced my transmission (145,500 miles on a 2003 CD001) yesterday with a new CD009. Within just a couple minutes of driving, I got the P0327. I have not looked yet, but I guarantee the above issue with a pinched wire between the block and the bell housing is my issue.

And Zdayz is just a couple days away :-(

At any rate, thanks for the great information.

BonesZ33

iTrader: (2)

and me mother ****er

johnwigs

the knock sensor and injector sub harness is is together... that is a green connector in the back of your fuel rail... your knock sensor is clocked the right way that is how they are put in from the factory... I wouldnt mess with the placment of it... nissan has spent alot of R&D to make the VQ run right... don't try to reinvent the wheel

PlatinumSR20

I'm in the process of changing my harness. I got everything apart in just a little over an hour, but I've been stuck trying to disconnect the bottom end of the harness for over 2 hours!

How did you guys get past the thick plastic box conduit, about 8in long, that the wires ran through? I've pried the snaps open on it and it still won't budge.

I have moved everything out the way that I could possibly move.

PlatinumSR20

So they sent me the wrong harness... It plugs into the knock sensor, but it doesn't plug into the female connector of the main harness.

I should have known something was up, because my connector was gray instead of light blue...ugh!

Does anybody have the correct p/n?

bottlefedZ

iTrader: (1)

http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=3189

PlatinumSR20

Thanks for the link....

Talked to Courtesy Nissan earlier. The guy sent out a Nissan Murano harness by accident, so they are sending me another harness, this time with the correct p/n.

AUtigers350z

iTrader: (18)

Have the P2037 code problem as well. Just ordered a new knock sensor and harness. For anyone else that's interested, the part # for the harness is 24079-CD000 and the part # for the knock sensor is 22060-2A000. This is for a 2004 350z btw.

dabrag

So I had P0327 showing up intermittently. I changed the knock sensor, which is kinda a pain. One autocross later it showed up again. Car really falls on it's face during acceleration, its very clear when it happens. I read a bunch of posts from different sites trying to get and idea what else could be going on. I got a lot of ideas including not getting the sensor from Nissan might have been a big mistake. I have read that the knock sensor is like a little microphone so I decided to scope the sensor (get a visual on the physical signal at the ECU). It was clear while driving the sensor signal was occasional falling to zero output (shorting to ground).

Sounds like most people who have had success getting rid of this problem have also changed the harness. Next I pulled the harness. Measuring continuity and checking for shorts the harness looked good. The service manual suggests this is a shielded cable, but didn't look like it to me. After tearing the harness apart the problem became very clear. If this is truly a Nissan cable they should be ashamed of themselves. The harness is a piece of shi@$# and it's hard to believe it ever worked. Anyway I replaced mine with a true shielded cable and the problem is now gone as well. By the way the $30.00 aftermarket knock sensor is working good. I think the majority of the problem truly exits in the harness but if you go through the pain of changing the cable you might just as well change the sensor too.

Good Luck
Dabrag

bugmenot

So should I just buy one of these cheaper sensors (which one? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...hedFrom=header) and the good harness? http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=3189 The sensor there costs $173! http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35/product_info.php?products_id=5719{611}2966 I can't find the harness on Advance Auto Parts website and sounds like you want to get the best (shielded) harness anyway.

drexnx

I also had the p0327 issue.. since this is the top search result I'll post my log findings here: p0327 kicks you into the high det timing table and costs you 8-10 degrees of timing at WOT which is why the car feels so damn slow




if you throw this CEL, you should replace this harness asap

bugmenot

what is a good CHEAPER sensor to buy? the one on Z1 (http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=5719) is ridiculously expensive - $172.86 !!!

I realize that the part number for sensor is 22060-2A000. There are some really cheap on eBay..question is, will they work just as well? I am buying the harness from Z1 as discussed: http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=3189

alytus

Can you send me the diagram? I cant see any pics or diagrams in this thread anymore...

Jsancheziboa

http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=5833
So I ordered this sub harness and knock sensor, will this work??