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What causes premature serpentine belt tears?

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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 04:48 PM
  #21  
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Go with a Napa heavy duty belt.. Ask for the best belt they have..
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 05:14 PM
  #22  
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Really? Napa?

I have a stupid question, we have 3 belts. I'm going to replace them all. Are they all the same part number? I was looking into getting Gates. I found the two in this link:

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...refValue=Gates

Which one do I need? Does one belt replace all three?
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 07:17 PM
  #23  
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Shounld only be two, or one really long one for some models? And I'm pretty sure they are different sizes.
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 08:33 PM
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Ah yes, two it is. Just checked. It is the Compressor Belt that has begun tearing itself (the thinner one). I think I'm going to call up a few local Napa stores and see if they carry Gates. Has anyone else had experiences with Napa belts? I've used Gatorback before with good results. I'd definitely want to avoid using OEM again.

Edit: Well sh*t...Napa Belts ARE Gates. I had no idea that belt sold at Napa are rebranded Gates stuff. Just discovered this. Sweet! Hopefully I can find an open location on Easter Sunday. Thanks for the help, gang.

Last edited by SniperHunter; Apr 3, 2010 at 08:41 PM.
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 09:16 PM
  #25  
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I am still on the original belt at 30k. Have had no problems aside from today. Cars temp guage ran hot while i was sitting in traffic - as soon as I turned off the AC the temps came crashing down
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 09:23 PM
  #26  
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I just replaced my factory belt on my HR at 50K miles and it still looked good. I replaced it with a Gates belt and haven't had any issues yet.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 07:23 PM
  #27  
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yeah, mine decided to hand out under the motor at 22k. I replaced it with a Napa (I assume gates then) slapped it on in a few mins (15-20) and headed out on a 2hr drive,,, no prob. I also check mine every oil change (5k for me). The OEM showed no signs of anything serious, or not normal at the 20k oil change. In those 2k miles it went rouge on my azz.
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 05:58 PM
  #28  
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Your belt is black not rouge.
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 12:45 AM
  #29  
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Im at nearly 30k but my belt looks new... Ive been making sure to check it at least a couple times a month because of all the incidents ive been reading about HR's chewing up belts. Ive got my fingers crossed.
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 07:20 PM
  #30  
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Curious if anyone has found a long term solution to the problem yet?

I had my car stored for almost a year and over that time it developed squealing from the serpentine belt and showed some wear on the inside edge. I replaced the belt with a Gates and it seemed fine for about a week. Now the Gates belt is squealing with only 200 miles on it which means that I have a tension or alignment issue.
My car has less than 15,000 miles on it and was bought brand new.
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 10:33 AM
  #31  
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I removed the belt to inspect the pullies. I spun all of them and all were free moving and without noise. However, the power steering pulley can be pushed in and out about 1/32 of an inch but does not wobble, the smooth idler pulley has some wobble, and the pulley on the auto tensioner has even more of a wobble. I also noticed that all the paint had been removed on the smooth idler where the belt runs. All other pullies seem fine.
Are these findings unusual?
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 12:01 PM
  #32  
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If the bearing in an idler or tensioner pulley is worn enough to wobble, it needs to be replaced.
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 08:54 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Mr.
I removed the belt to inspect the pullies. I spun all of them and all were free moving and without noise. However, the power steering pulley can be pushed in and out about 1/32 of an inch but does not wobble, the smooth idler pulley has some wobble, and the pulley on the auto tensioner has even more of a wobble. I also noticed that all the paint had been removed on the smooth idler where the belt runs. All other pullies seem fine.
Are these findings unusual?
Bumping up the old thread...I know.

My belt is gone today. Looks like I have exact same situation as above. Is finding some play on smooth idler pulley and auto tensioner pulley normal? Or should I replace all idle pullies and auto tensioner before installing a new belt? All pullies move freely without making sound. This happebed on my 19,700miles vq35hr.

Last edited by willow350; Jan 7, 2012 at 09:13 PM.
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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 02:52 PM
  #34  
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OK. Nobody answer heh? Well, I ordered two idler pulley and tensioner to be on safe side. Like I said, there are some play on auto-tensioner's pulley and smooth pulley. Part guy at Courtesyparts say that there shouldn't be any play. I'll see if that is true when the new parts get here....

I installed new gate's belt just to see how these play work with the new belt. Looks like they work just fine. All play are gone when tension is applied, but I could hear slight noise from tensioner's pulley. I think it's bearing is bad. Well, I'll see how it responds to new pulley and tensioner soon.

For those who have similar issue, Nissan has released updated auto-tensioner for HR. Same part number as GTR's. Not too sure if it is redesigned or just has different part number. Waiting for the parts to confirm.

Last edited by willow350; Jan 13, 2012 at 02:54 PM.
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Old Jun 5, 2012 | 08:32 PM
  #35  
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I got my HR car with 37K and original belt looked good then. I check all the time. This week at 50K mi, I noticed a small portion on one rib was gone and I could see some long strands of fiber/thread thrown off against the engine. So, I'm going to replace this week. No sounds at all. 50K mi isn't bad, but modern serpentine (Vrib) belts can go for well over 75K mi...so it looks like this car does wear them down.
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Old Jun 5, 2012 | 08:50 PM
  #36  
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what do you expect from nissan engineering...it is engineered to consume belts, brakes, rotors, tires, oil, compression rods, window motors and radio units. This is how we ensure guaranteed revenue stream even after the sale....nooobs
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 04:36 AM
  #37  
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Just to add one more data point, I changed the original belt on my '08 at 40K and it looked just about new, without any frays or cracks. Replaced it with a new Gates belt, just because it was easier to buy. Belt damage is almost always due to a bad tensioner or misaligned pulleys, assuming installation was done correctly.
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Old Jun 8, 2012 | 01:52 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by dcains
Just to add one more data point, I changed the original belt on my '08 at 40K and it looked just about new, without any frays or cracks. Replaced it with a new Gates belt, just because it was easier to buy. Belt damage is almost always due to a bad tensioner or misaligned pulleys, assuming installation was done correctly.
Just took mine off. Except for an isolated 18" long strip of one inner rib missing (one rib only), my belt looked like NEW. There was some fiber/thread that was thrown off from this small area that stuck to the engine. I don't think a think a faulty tensioner or misaligned pulley would cause this. The old belt ran straight and true with engine running..no wobble at all. It's very hard for this belt (HR single belt with 7 ribs) to jump..unless it's really loose. Belt had 50K miles on it. As far as Gates..I have heard they are now made in MEXICO...at least a good portion of them anyway. I opted for OEM which is made in JAPAN (says so on belt).
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 12:20 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by willow350
OK. Nobody answer heh? Well, I ordered two idler pulley and tensioner to be on safe side. Like I said, there are some play on auto-tensioner's pulley and smooth pulley. Part guy at Courtesyparts say that there shouldn't be any play. I'll see if that is true when the new parts get here....

I installed new gate's belt just to see how these play work with the new belt. Looks like they work just fine. All play are gone when tension is applied, but I could hear slight noise from tensioner's pulley. I think it's bearing is bad. Well, I'll see how it responds to new pulley and tensioner soon.

For those who have similar issue, Nissan has released updated auto-tensioner for HR. Same part number as GTR's. Not too sure if it is redesigned or just has different part number. Waiting for the parts to confirm.

updates? part #?
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 04:21 PM
  #40  
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you guys save yourself money, if you have a bad idler pulley (there are two on the HR) don't replace the whole part because one goes for about $130+ at Nissan, just hammer out your old bad bearing and buy a new one from a bearing supplier shouldn't cost more than $15 and it's real easy to put in
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